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Winters / Art Carr Gated Shifter effect.....for a column shifter?

Greg72

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Anyone ever seen one? :dunno:

I like the idea of a gated shifter that allows for quick slamming between gears without the risk of hitting Park by accident..... But I really don't want the look of a huge cable shifter assembly inside my truck.

Is there any equivalent product that makes a traditional column shifter behave similarly? Is it even possible? :thinking: I have a feeling that a modified "detent plate" (at the bottom of the factory steering column) with sharper transitions between gear positions might do the trick.... But maybe there's more to it?

-G
 
So I haven't looked a ton. I would imagine something could be modified in the factory column.

I see you getting really friendly with some files!
 
But I would do a reverse valve body. 1st to reverse is a long ways in a stock pattern
 
But I would do a reverse valve body. 1st to reverse is a long ways in a stock pattern

I don't have a problem with a reverse pattern as long as I can still just drop it in "D" and go for normal driving......AND it doesn't have to shift at full line-pressure.

Most of that is programmable with the Holley Terminator ECU/TCU (I think!) so I should be good to go.


-G
 
I've never heard of a column shifter like that.....I think it's time to give in and get a floor shifter. I will never get another shifter after I bought the Art Carr off a buddy.
 
I've never heard of a column shifter like that.....I think it's time to give in and get a floor shifter. I will never get another shifter after I bought the Art Carr off a buddy.

Yuck.

No.



Some guys love the look of a ginormous shift housing standing a mile off the center tunnel.... that's not my thing.

I like the functionality of a gated shifter, and the benefit of being able to bang from 1st to Reverse during a steep climb if things suddenly go all wrong and I'm about to go over backwards.




-G
 
It's much more compact without the plastic housing and pretty easy to mount. The trick is figuring out the cable routing. But either way, it doesn't need to take up near that much space. I mounted mine off the side of the Tuffy console.
 
It's much more compact without the plastic housing and pretty easy to mount. The trick is figuring out the cable routing. But either way, it doesn't need to take up near that much space. I mounted mine off the side of the Tuffy console.

The question in my mind is:

How do I replicate the "magic" inside that shift mechanism (either at the top of the steering column where the gear selector lives, or at the bottom where the factory detent plate is now)....so that I can get a similar effect??? :dunno:

Any chance you've got a photo of what that shifter looks like without the big plastic cover on it?


-G
 
Yuck.

No.



Some guys love the look of a ginormous shift housing standing a mile off the center tunnel.... that's not my thing.

I like the functionality of a gated shifter, and the benefit of being able to bang from 1st to Reverse during a steep climb if things suddenly go all wrong and I'm about to go over backwards.




-G

I feel the same way, which is why i still have the factory shifter.

im in for the results!
 
The question in my mind is:

How do I replicate the "magic" inside that shift mechanism (either at the top of the steering column where the gear selector lives, or at the bottom where the factory detent plate is now)....so that I can get a similar effect??? :dunno:

Any chance you've got a photo of what that shifter looks like without the big plastic cover on it?


-G
Best I've got:

DSCF1797.jpg


DSCF1792.jpg
 
Most of that is programmable with the Holley Terminator ECU/TCU (I think!) so I should be good to go.
Much of it is. I've spent some time calibrating my 4L80E with a PCS TCM2000. I suspect Holley will operate in a similar fashion. The electronics/solenoids are subordinate to the positioning of the shifter/valve body. There is an attribute in "full manual mode" that allows you to mostly disable automatic downshifts. I know some other controller call this "dyno mode".

I considered a reverse manual valve body, but ultimately decided against one since 99% of my shifting is in automatic mode. Quite frankly, I wanted my wife to be able to drive it easily should the need arise. In fact, I've tweaked the shift tables so much to my preferences that I rarely have to manually grab 3rd on a long hill climb.

For the trail, I have two switches that ground and trigger: "Calibration B" (high line pressure, holds 1 - 3 in a semi-manual mode when selected) and low range (lower shift points).

As for shifter selection, take a look at Lokar. I used their column shifter rod with heim joints but wasn't looking for anything gated. I really just needed to clear my 4" exhaust. Their floor shifter (direct and cable) has a very nice reverse lockout. Very well thought out assembly and an aesthetically pleasing design. They're used on hotrods all the time.

David
 
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Greg I think we are weird for liking the column shifter.

For me it's up and out of the way and works fine. :dunno:
 
Greg I think we are weird for liking the column shifter.

For me it's up and out of the way and works fine. :dunno:

I'm just going for as much "OEM sleeper" interior as I can get.... Right down to a working AM radio. :)

Not 100% authentic K5 per se, but period appropriate.... Column shifter is VERY sleepy.


:haha:


-G
 
I sure like the look of ryoken's set up.

But I'll stick with the 465.
 

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