Wire taps

[JoshHefnerX]

What's everyone's preferred method of tapping an automotive wire?

I hate the shitty old t-tap things, I usually just gather the wires and crimp in some spades...

Let me hear what you guys got..

 

[nvrenuf]

I’m by no means good at or smart about wiring but I’ve seen where GM piggybacked wires in my dash harness by running 2 in / 1 out of bare metal crimp connectors with heat shrink over it. This wouldn’t be a good way to combine several wires but it seems to have worked good for tapping into a power source wire.

 

[Wes Harden]

If not the splice method, then a buss bar

 

[Truckman4life]

I usually go for the next size up heat shrink butt connector. If I have 1-14 gauge wire on one side and 2 on the other I'll use a yellow one that fits the 2 twisted together. At my work we have heat shrink butts that have yellow on one side and blue on the other or red on one side and blue on the other. They work really well for putting multiple wires on one side and one on the other.

 

[Wes Harden]

Another method, if conversion butt connectors aren't available.
Strip the single wire double long, fold it over, to fill the butt connector.
For most of my in shop wiring work, I will be using non insulated butts, eyes, and spades. Use my own heat shrink, either red, or black, clear option, with printed label under heat shrink. Soldering is an option.

 

[ktmoutfront]

Strip the single wire double long, fold it over, to fill the butt connector.
For most of my in shop wiring work, I will be using non insulated butts, eyes, and spades. Use my own heat shrink, either red, or black, clear option, with printed label under heat shrink. Soldering is THE ONLY option.

This, and I fixed it for you.

 

[HankScorpio]

I do these but add solder and heat shrink.

 

[ktmoutfront]

I also use GM weather pack pins, not the clip connectors though. You can use a larger 16 gauge for 2 wires and a smaller 24 gauge for the small side. Crimp, dab of solder, slide heat shrink over and plug them together. Shrink the tubing. Can still be disconnected by cutting the tubing.

 

[Truckman4life]

View attachment 453697View attachment 453698View attachment 453699

I do these but add solder and heat shrink.

I use the y-splice but the disadvantage is you gotta be able to get heat shrink on there so it doesn't work when trying to connect in the middle of a long circuit. I'll use a razor blade and just cut a section of insulation off and wrap the other one around then solder and heat shrink. If doing it in the middle where you can't get heat shrink on you have to cut and splice all 3 and don't forget to slide the heat shrink on first.

 

[JoshHefnerX]

Appreciate all the tips. Got two places I need to tie into. Some under the dash and some in the back under the bed. Dash is gonna be tight.

 

[Bigb55]

If I just want the job done, I'll do T- crimps. The ones I have done have lasted decades. Eventually though I had to take out the crimp and do a proper soldered splice with shrink wrap.

But those were all on exterior wires for lights etc. The under dash wiring has never been an issue.

 

[dyeager535]

I don't splice. I don't like having multiple things on the same circuit. As a matter of fact, even though I "don't" do that, I somehow ended up in a situation where if my backup camera rear view mirror fuse fails, it kills the fuel pump. I'll need to fix that, but it specifies why I don't like splices...I have no clue where the problem is. Besides, I really dislike disrupting the wires jacket, as it's a potential source of corrosion that didn't exist before.

The rear view mirror camera needs a reverse light trigger off the trans (SM465) so I made a short harness that goes between the factory reverse light wires and the reverse light switch, with the necessary camera wiring crimped into the weather-pack terminals in the short harness I made. So I can disconnect the camera if needed. Not really a splice, since I didn't cut anything.

Everything else is run off an auxiliary fuse panel that has a relay controlling a section of the fuses with ignition power (that relay triggered by one of the spare ignition taps on the stock fuse panel) and another section of fuses being battery 12V.

I almost never solder anymore. There is enough data out there (for me) that crimping, done right, is as effective as soldering, and is less prone to stress problems. Not to mention some of the solder/flux has gotten worse over time (china/regulation). Uninsulated butt crimps and shrink tubing are cheap, and for my tastes, is easier than soldering.

Just opinion. I like electrical stuff, but when it's not working right it's a process to track down. Far less of a process if the circuits are isolated.

 

[K5er4Life]

In general I prefer crimping with a high quality crimp connector for wire connections. If a tap is absolutely necessary then I really like these posi-tap connectors. They are more pricey than standard t taps but worth it.

https://www.amazon.com/Lockitt-Posi...=tap+it+wire+connectors&qid=1691424121&sr=8-7

I hate the typical t taps. They tear up the insulation, cut into the copper and over time end up failing and damaging the wire. Posi-Taps are a lot less invasive.

 

[Blue85]

https://ck5.com/forums/threads/solderstick.347111/

Yes, proper crimping is good, but it requires you to have the right crimper for the specific terminals you're using. You also still need to insulate. Don't confuse general autozone crimpers for proper crimp and of course the hard plastic butt splice and terminal crimps at autozone or walmart are also not proper. These are "quick and dirty" methods.

IMO, the Posi-tap is about as professional as using wire nuts in a car.

 

[mrk5]

In general I prefer crimping with a high quality crimp connector for wire connections. If a tap is absolutely necessary then I really like these posi-tap connectors. They are more pricey than standard t taps but worth it.

https://www.amazon.com/Lockitt-Posi...=tap+it+wire+connectors&qid=1691424121&sr=8-7

I've used those posi-taps for non-critcal things, especially if they are in a difficult location. Like tapping into the dash lighting for add-on gauges.

Otherwise I tend to make the Y splice with a Packard or Weathertite plug. I'll have to remember @ktmoutfront's suggestion of using the terminals without the housing.

 

[Wes Harden]

The weather pack terminals without the housing is a great idea. I was just thinking how the hell would I remember it was 2 terminals and not a crimped butt splice.
Clear heat shrink is how. I am going to do this on my trans cooler fan, since that is one of the circuits I am redoing.