CGT80
1/2 ton status
I have a 79 C20 with dual fuel tanks. It had full gauges except for the tachometer. I am cleaning up some wiring so I can get the engine and trans put back in. The fuel gauge sender wire runs from the passenger side frame rail, up past the starter and through the fuse block connector. The wire is really beat up. Since I have dual fuel tanks, the wire that this connects to, near the tanks, is actually run from the fuel switch in the dash. Yep, it makes a big loop. The original wire was used for a single tank and for a dual setup they just added a separate harness. I have wires from each tank sending unit to the switch at the dash.
I am going to run a wire from the tank switch in the dash to my gauges and bypass the wiring outside that runs from the fuse block. I have autometer gauges. I cut wires from the original gauges and tied in with the autometer stuff. It looks like #18 with two small pink wires (at the original gauge plug) is the sensor wire to my gauge. Both pink wires seem to run down to the fuse panel. I don't understand why there are two. My fuel gauge worked fine hooked up like this, well other than it not reading sometimes, but I think that is from the beat up wire that ran down next to the headers.
I will try to trace the double pink wire to the fuse panel. I just wanted to better understand the wiring as I clean it up. I have a diagram for 79 but it shows that #30 is the fuel sender and it is hard to read that diagram.
My hazard lights also don't work, but my turn signals work fine. I checked the fuses before and I think I replaced the haz flasher. My turn signal switch has been replaced by my mechanic uncle. Does anyone know how this circuit works?
If anyone has experience with these issues or a good wiring diagram for haz lights or the gauge cluster and fuse box, I would greatly appreciate any help. I am pretty good with wiring, but it is hard to see where some of this goes. I don't want to tear the wiring looms apart to trace wires, if I can help it. I already had the bulkhead connector and fuse panel out, but I just put that back together. I am trying to get all my accessory feeds out in a box under the hood and I want to eliminate hidden places for wiring to go bad. My speed, temp, oil pressure, voltage, tach, etc. signals have new wires direct to the engine, so I only reused about a third of the wires from the original gauge connector.
Thanks guys
I am going to run a wire from the tank switch in the dash to my gauges and bypass the wiring outside that runs from the fuse block. I have autometer gauges. I cut wires from the original gauges and tied in with the autometer stuff. It looks like #18 with two small pink wires (at the original gauge plug) is the sensor wire to my gauge. Both pink wires seem to run down to the fuse panel. I don't understand why there are two. My fuel gauge worked fine hooked up like this, well other than it not reading sometimes, but I think that is from the beat up wire that ran down next to the headers.
I will try to trace the double pink wire to the fuse panel. I just wanted to better understand the wiring as I clean it up. I have a diagram for 79 but it shows that #30 is the fuel sender and it is hard to read that diagram.
My hazard lights also don't work, but my turn signals work fine. I checked the fuses before and I think I replaced the haz flasher. My turn signal switch has been replaced by my mechanic uncle. Does anyone know how this circuit works?
If anyone has experience with these issues or a good wiring diagram for haz lights or the gauge cluster and fuse box, I would greatly appreciate any help. I am pretty good with wiring, but it is hard to see where some of this goes. I don't want to tear the wiring looms apart to trace wires, if I can help it. I already had the bulkhead connector and fuse panel out, but I just put that back together. I am trying to get all my accessory feeds out in a box under the hood and I want to eliminate hidden places for wiring to go bad. My speed, temp, oil pressure, voltage, tach, etc. signals have new wires direct to the engine, so I only reused about a third of the wires from the original gauge connector.
Thanks guys