CK5
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wobbly hood
- Thread starter 68MUDSTUD
- Start date
Replace all four fender to hood bumpers, make sure the hood to grill bumpers are in ok shape and properly adjusted. As long as the hood is adjusted to fit the fenders properly the hood shouldn't move around much at all.
im talkin about the center of the hood moving up and down. my bumpers and stuff are all adjusted right.
edit: you know how you take a piece of flat tin and push it away from you and pull it back real fast like, its like that.
edit: you know how you take a piece of flat tin and push it away from you and pull it back real fast like, its like that.
Ohhhhh that wobble.
I took a piece of round bar just long enough to fit under the inner structure at either end and bent it to have a slight bow. It needs to bow a little more than the hood does, the high spot in the bow needs to contact the low spot in the hood. I use a piece of the existing insulation from the brace to insulate the round bar fom the hood. Once the bar is bent to hold the hood properly stick the insulation beween the bar and the hood, put the bar between the structure and the hood and weld into place.
The picure I included shows square tube that is screwed into place, but it gives you an idea what I'm talking about. The square tube isn't strong enough and the screws won't last in an off road environment.
I took a piece of round bar just long enough to fit under the inner structure at either end and bent it to have a slight bow. It needs to bow a little more than the hood does, the high spot in the bow needs to contact the low spot in the hood. I use a piece of the existing insulation from the brace to insulate the round bar fom the hood. Once the bar is bent to hold the hood properly stick the insulation beween the bar and the hood, put the bar between the structure and the hood and weld into place.
The picure I included shows square tube that is screwed into place, but it gives you an idea what I'm talking about. The square tube isn't strong enough and the screws won't last in an off road environment.
I've got the same flexing of the hood panel at speed.... FWIW.
The factory foam strips will probably help somewhat (keep the hood in contact with those two structural beams underneath) but that hood is still a LARGE flat piece of steel that's going to want to move around.
The only other idea I've had is to use my dimple dies to create a much stiffer re-inforcement panel that I could weld to the underside of the stock hood (between those factory rails) Dimpled metal is very resistant to the flexing unlike flat sheetmetal.
I don't like the idea of adding even MORE weight to my truck, but I don't like watching the hood buckling and bouncing either.
The factory foam strips will probably help somewhat (keep the hood in contact with those two structural beams underneath) but that hood is still a LARGE flat piece of steel that's going to want to move around.
The only other idea I've had is to use my dimple dies to create a much stiffer re-inforcement panel that I could weld to the underside of the stock hood (between those factory rails) Dimpled metal is very resistant to the flexing unlike flat sheetmetal.
I don't like the idea of adding even MORE weight to my truck, but I don't like watching the hood buckling and bouncing either.
Greg72 said:I don't like the idea of adding even MORE weight to my truck, but I don't like watching the hood buckling and bouncing either.
yeah, the sound is what gets me, i cant frickin stand it anymore.
If it's the sound that bothers you, try a little DynaMat Extreme....or whatever one they make for underhood applications.
Won't keep it from buckling, but it WILL quiet it down....
Won't keep it from buckling, but it WILL quiet it down....
royjones
Trucker upper
spray foam like you fill cracks with do a test area under the brace watch for it to expand do both sides let it dry cut off extra with knife no more rattles or wobbles 
