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Won't start after hot

buffblazer

1/2 ton status
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Jan 5, 2005
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Fort Collins Colorado
Alright not on a blazer but on my 75 corvette.

Not to long ago i would drive it and then when I would go to start it, it would be very hard crank like it has a low battery and then start

After she cools she fires right up.

Well I was driving it this evening and popped the clutch and killed it at a light. Tried to start her and she barely cranked and then nothing. No starter whine or click

Battery voltage is good and when running the car runs like a top

Starter issue or am I dumping to much fuel into her and she is getting to hot t start?

Currently sitting on the side of the road waiting for her to cool down. The more she cools the more crank I seem to get
 
That's what I'm thinking. It tapped on it while cranking and nothing. Tried jumpering it and it acted like the bendix was locked up.

Pull started her, fired right up but I noticed my radio was acting like it had lost all power. Radio stations gone and such. Never felt like my battery got low. Head lights were bright and such.

Drove her home and as soon as I parked her in the garage i tried to start her again. She cranked slowly and barely started.

Starter on its way out you think? Looking into those mini starters wonder if that's the route I should go especially with side pipe headers
 
This might be the wrong direction, but how about vapor lock. Had a buddy having hot start issues and his started would make a hell of a noise but not turn over, sometimes crank real slow and sometimes not at all. Turns out he had a fuel line strapped to a heater hose.
 
If it was vapor locked would it still pull start? I mean we moved 30 feet and she hit on the first try

And wouldn't it run rough?
 
Odds are it's the starter getting heat soaked. I went through this not that long ago on one of my Camaros. I used a mini starter (think it was a Jegs house brand) and haven't had a problem since. While you're in there, replace the battery cables if they are old. Heat and age affect them too.
 
A stalled starter can suck a battery so dry that the voltage drops below the memory level of the radio, but the battery usually has to be marginal or fairly small for it to happen.

Odds are that you have a combination of problems.

A starter that it getting heat soaked and binding up, plus a bad cable or connection.
The amount of voltage drop across a bad connection is affected by the amount of current being drawn through it.
So, while the connection might be fine for normal starting loads, when the starter gets hot and starts drawing a lot more current, you lose most of the voltage across that connection.

Which is what killed your radio memory. The available voltage was so low it was like you disconnected the battery for a few seconds.

You can probably find that spot with a voltmeter if you want to try. It might be better to just replace the main battery cables and redo all the main power connections while you are replacing the starter.

There is a possibility you can see the problem. Look carefully at any copper connections, like where the wires hook onto the starter solenoid. If the connection is bad, you are losing voltage as heat, and the copper will be discolored.

Otherwise, you just need to get a voltmeter and do voltage drop tests under load.
For instance, if the wires will reach, you can put one probe on the positive post of the battery, and the other probe on the solenoid post where the wires hook up.

With the voltmeter on a low scale, 20 volts DC or less, you should see less than about .5 volts when cranking.
If you see a volt or two, there is a bad connection between the two probes. Then, you just measure across the connections between the two until you find it.

From the battery post to the clamp while cranking will show if the clamp is making a good contact.
Don't forget to check on the ground side too.
 

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