wont start warm. worn IP?

[mechted]

'85 Chevy C10 with a 6.2 N/A from a '88 R20 Burb

Lately my brother's truck hasn't been starting when hot. It cranks a little, but slowly; like it has a dead battery. Tested both batteries and alt, all are good. When it first started happening a few weeks ago he could jump the gp controller and it would start. If it sits for a few hours it starts right up everytime, so we think its the injection pump. This is the first diesel we've dealt with so if anyone with more experience has any other ideas? And if it is the IP, has anyone has bought an IP from Kennedy Diesel or can recommend another place that sells a reliable DB2 pump.

TIA

 

[imiceman44]

'85 Chevy C10 with a 6.2 N/A from a '88 R20 Burb

Lately my brother's truck hasn't been starting when hot. It cranks a little, but slowly; like it has a dead battery. Tested both batteries and alt, all are good. When it first started happening a few weeks ago he could jump the gp controller and it would start. If it sits for a few hours it starts right up everytime, so we think its the injection pump. This is the first diesel we've dealt with so if anyone with more experience has any other ideas? And if it is the IP, has anyone has bought an IP from Kennedy Diesel or can recommend another place that sells a reliable DB2 pump.

TIA

You say if it's warm, it will urn over but slow, you have a problem with your starter heat soaked.
I would switch to the gear reduction starter before touching the IP

 

[Wishbone]

It's either the starter of IP. That model does not use a gear reduction starter so I would look their first. An easy way to tell if the IP is causing the problem to pour a little luke warm water over it when it won't start. It will start every time after you pour the water on it if the IP is going. Check here for a quality rebuilt one...

www.ssdieselsupply.com

 

[BKinzey]

While SSDieselSupply is a great place, they only list new starters.

I'd also check your grounds. could be a bad connection and those are real cheap

 

[jarheadk5]

While SSDieselSupply is a great place, they only list new starters.

I think Wishbone was referring to IP's, not starters, when he spoke of quality rebuilds.

 

[79Beast]

I agree that you should have the same or better cranking speed when warm. If you still warm start problems after you increase cranking speed, it's probably because the glow plug controller thinks that the engine is warm enough to start without glowing. However, in my experience, any 6.2 that sat for more than 3-4 minutes has to glow to start.

 

[kennyw]

However, in my experience, any 6.2 that sat for more than 3-4 minutes has to glow to start.

I don't agree with that... My '79 K20 was setup with only a manual GP control and I never had to use GP's when the truck was warm and sat less than 2 hours (during the summer anyway). That was with one battery and the old non gear reduction starter. Trick was size 0 battery cables

 

[tRustyK5]

X2

Mine flashes up easily even an hour or two after it last run and was fully warm. From cold if it has run anymore than 5 or 6 minutes it'll flash to life again without the gp's.

The only time I ever use my GP's is if it is dead cold.

Rene

 

[4by4bygod]

If the starter turns out to not be the problem, it COULD be the fuel, if you are using ULSD.. it's more volatile 'cause it's made from number one fuel ( not #2), and the refineries that are supplying it have to really back down on the cetane number in order to meet the low sulfur mandate..

As of June 1st, 2006, the refineries are limited to a maximum sulfur content of 4 - 5 PPM, or face shutdown by the EPA. so lots of gymnastics are required to make enough usable product to sell.

Interestingly enough, european ULSD has a "volatility index" number, describing the likelyhood of fuel vaporization.. I guess here in the states they figure you don't need to know that.

I've seen older school buses running the ULSD and PM filters have severe hot start problems like you describe, and since you are in CA, I thought this might be helpful..

Tom

 

[savagek5diesel]

same problem

I'm having the same issue, and this just started after i put my front end back together after "my accident". Truck fires up fine when cold, and a pain to start once warmed up after driving. Couldn't get it to fire back up the other day out @ my buddy's house, hooked up some jumpers to the main start battery and fired up real quick.
I do have a gear reduction starter, i do have a manual glow plug setup, I also use cetane booster . So from your guys' information, i'm gonna do new Ogauge wire to the starter and grounds, replace my glow plug controller (because it doesn't draw voltage like it used to), and a new relay for the manual GP switch

 

[mechted]

New gear reduction starter seems to have solved the issue... i hope