CK5
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Wood Deck or Steel Deck Trailer??
- Thread starter 90blzr
- Start date
No d-rings, just lots of stake pockets made out of 5" channel with a curve cut in the bottom for a chain. Six on the front, two in the back, six on each side. Yeah, I wen't overboard on them, but I have a set of rails that fit nicely into the pockets when I need to add "sides" to the trailer.
One tip on the lumber. Some of the local saw mills here sell "rough cut" timbers for 18 wheeler flatbeds. It's a heavier wood, and probably not cheaper than treated pine, but is much more durable and should last a long time compared to the treated stuff. I couldn't get any cheap enough in the size I needed so I used pressure treated wood from LOWES. There might be something like that available in your area.
BIGJ
One tip on the lumber. Some of the local saw mills here sell "rough cut" timbers for 18 wheeler flatbeds. It's a heavier wood, and probably not cheaper than treated pine, but is much more durable and should last a long time compared to the treated stuff. I couldn't get any cheap enough in the size I needed so I used pressure treated wood from LOWES. There might be something like that available in your area.
BIGJ
Anything 'wrong' with D-rings on the deck...or you just chose not to? Got any close up pics of your stake pockets? ANd what do you bean by the 'curve' in the bottom for chain? Like for chain and binders to tie down?
Thanks for the tip on the wood. I'll have to see if they do or can use that wood for the deck if I go that route
Thanks for the tip on the wood. I'll have to see if they do or can use that wood for the deck if I go that route
If you put the d-rings on the deck, you'll have to come up with a way to put wood around that area, because they're probably going to be a few feet inside the edges of the trailer. I wanted to use full uncut lumber and didn't feel like d-rings on the deck were worth the trouble. Not to mention, unless you recess the rings, they're going to be in the way when you want to load something flat on the trailer anyway.
The stake pockets look like a box, with a curve cut in the bottom like this:
It works great for hooks, like you would use in binders and chain or straps.
BIGJ
The stake pockets look like a box, with a curve cut in the bottom like this:
It works great for hooks, like you would use in binders and chain or straps.
BIGJ
gravdigr
1/2 ton status
We had the local high school ag shop build our trailer for the cemetery. It has a hydraulic dump kit on it for hauling cement materials from the quarry and is used for hauling our backhoe. It is rated at 10k lbs and the deck is wood. We used rough cut red oak and I'm here to tell you it is some hard stuff. The trailer has gone through 20 years of hard use and is just now needing some planks replaced. Sure it is scuffed up a bit but that just means better traction when the snow starts flying.
SUBFAN
1/2 ton status
Keep that tying things down in your mind when you look at the trailers. A tlr we have at work sucks, because there is hardly nowhere to put the hook end of a 2" strap. The frame is all boxed material, and there are only 4 stake pockets....
Having ran a flatbed for awhile, you would want the most (as in quantity) SECURE tiedown options available, because you never know what you will be hauling next.
My vote is for a wood deck....My flatbed was an all aluminum tlr. that damn near anything could be tied to....
Having ran a flatbed for awhile, you would want the most (as in quantity) SECURE tiedown options available, because you never know what you will be hauling next.
My vote is for a wood deck....My flatbed was an all aluminum tlr. that damn near anything could be tied to....
I have 3/4 inch plywood on my flatbed on the 74 K20 I plow and scap stuff with--its got a crane with a small winch,the frame is 4 inch c channel underneath--its about a foot between the channel iron,and I've had as much as 6000 lbs /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif on it(dont tell the dmv! /forums/images/graemlins/ignore.gif)and I've dropped engines from about a foot high on it with a loader and to my suprise it didnt break through!.I like the way wood doesnt let things slide around and though the plywood gets slick when wet or oily like steel(I think because I painted it with porch and deck enamel /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif)it outlasts steel 2 to 1 in new england.We use rough cut lumber,red oak or hemlock lasts the longest.My brother's beavertail ramp truck had plywood bolted to the steel deck where the tires go so his iceracer could climb up the steel deck with tire chains on--we almost slid it sideways off the truck on bare painted steel /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif!.Wood isnt good for scapping cars that have flat tires or no wheels though,everything from muffler clamps to shock brackets will scrape the hell out of it /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif,but around here they usually pick the cars off your truck or trailer with a loader with forks anyway! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Pookster
1/2 ton status
Would it be terrible to hurculine my wood trailer?
seems like a good idea. Seal out the elements, make it more durable, and have more traction.
seems like a good idea. Seal out the elements, make it more durable, and have more traction.
Damn everyone loves there wood /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif
Yeah, I was thinking about some D-rings down each side...maybe 4 on each side on the actual deck, recessed, and then the stake pockets are on the sides as well. That way there will ALWAYS be somewhere to tie down too. My last trailer just had two at the front and two at the back. So many times it was a biiaaaatttcchhh to get stuff tied down cause you had to work with it because there wasnt any real good place to tied down too...
Yeah, I was thinking about some D-rings down each side...maybe 4 on each side on the actual deck, recessed, and then the stake pockets are on the sides as well. That way there will ALWAYS be somewhere to tie down too. My last trailer just had two at the front and two at the back. So many times it was a biiaaaatttcchhh to get stuff tied down cause you had to work with it because there wasnt any real good place to tied down too...
That's what I use. No problem...
So on a side note, I'm going to build a gooseneck flat bed to haul the willys on. Anyone know of any sites listing specs on what size I beam to use compared to load ratings and such?
Best thing to do would be to go looking at new trailers in the size rating you want and see what size frame they used. You can feel very safe in copying the same size material on a commercially built trailer.
For tie down points I like to use the C-channel pockets with a flat bar running on the outside of them so you can tie down at any point along the full length of the flatbed (tire opening on a trailer may not be possible though).
Flatbed plans
For tie down points I like to use the C-channel pockets with a flat bar running on the outside of them so you can tie down at any point along the full length of the flatbed (tire opening on a trailer may not be possible though).
Flatbed plans
This should give you an idea:
http://www.indianvalleytrailers.com/pages/877132/index.htm
This is where I will be purchasing my trailer from.
John is a very easy guy to talk with and will answer any questions. I have heard nothing but good things about his trailers. They are built better than any I have looked at here and are WAY cheaper. He knows his stuff!
I just went and looked at a Big Tex trailer just for curiosity. For the same options, they want over $3500 /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif
This is where crwlin73 got his from too/forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
http://www.indianvalleytrailers.com/pages/877132/index.htm
This is where I will be purchasing my trailer from.
John is a very easy guy to talk with and will answer any questions. I have heard nothing but good things about his trailers. They are built better than any I have looked at here and are WAY cheaper. He knows his stuff!
I just went and looked at a Big Tex trailer just for curiosity. For the same options, they want over $3500 /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif
This is where crwlin73 got his from too/forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
www.indianvalleytrailers.com
Our finest car hauler! 16,18 & 20 foot by
83" (maximum legal width) STANDARD EQUIPMENT:
*Diamond Plate Steel floor
*5 inch Channel Steel frame & wrapped tongue, 3 inch Channel Steel crossmembers
*Bulldog Coupler, 2000# jack set back & welded
*Front Bump Rail, Smooth Teardrop fenders
*stake pockets with heavy rub strap
*NEW 15" tires on 10 hole 5 lug silver mod steel wheels
*3500# axles (1 idler, 1 brake)
*light kit with recessed tail & rubber mounted side marker lights
*5 foot Channel Steel ramps pull out from rear, 2 foot dovetail
*Over built to last under tough conditions. Compare at $3295 and up. OUR PRICE only $1548 for 16', $1598 for 18', $1648 for 20'.
OPTIONS:
2nd brake axle $110
No dove tail - no charge
Wood deck - deduct $150
Spare tire $50, Spare mount $20
Breakaway kit with battery $55
2 5/16 coupler $25
D-rings recessed $10 each
Stone Shield $150
Offered in Black or Red
HEAVYMAXI - 83x20 Gooseneck, two 7,000LB brake axles, 235/85R16E tires, 16" centers, breakaway kit, 6" channel frame, only $2895!
Our finest car hauler! 16,18 & 20 foot by
83" (maximum legal width) STANDARD EQUIPMENT:
*Diamond Plate Steel floor
*5 inch Channel Steel frame & wrapped tongue, 3 inch Channel Steel crossmembers
*Bulldog Coupler, 2000# jack set back & welded
*Front Bump Rail, Smooth Teardrop fenders
*stake pockets with heavy rub strap
*NEW 15" tires on 10 hole 5 lug silver mod steel wheels
*3500# axles (1 idler, 1 brake)
*light kit with recessed tail & rubber mounted side marker lights
*5 foot Channel Steel ramps pull out from rear, 2 foot dovetail
*Over built to last under tough conditions. Compare at $3295 and up. OUR PRICE only $1548 for 16', $1598 for 18', $1648 for 20'.
OPTIONS:
2nd brake axle $110
No dove tail - no charge
Wood deck - deduct $150
Spare tire $50, Spare mount $20
Breakaway kit with battery $55
2 5/16 coupler $25
D-rings recessed $10 each
Stone Shield $150
Offered in Black or Red
HEAVYMAXI - 83x20 Gooseneck, two 7,000LB brake axles, 235/85R16E tires, 16" centers, breakaway kit, 6" channel frame, only $2895!
Sounds like it comes ready to go. I would recommend the 2nd brake axle, and the 2 5/16" coupler. Dont forget the brakeaway kit either, you'll need it anyway to make the trailer legal.
BIGJ
BIGJ
yeah, I will be upgrading to (2) 5200# brake axles (6 lug), brake away kit, 2 5/16" bulldog coupler, D-rings, spare/w mount and removeable fenders/forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif Thanks for the tips/forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
70~K5
1/2 ton status
If you want the best wood deck for a trailer use Apatong. It costs alot but will last forever.
