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Workin' on my D60. First time, your input please

MuddinManny

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Hey guys,

Thanks for all your help. I'm starting to work on my Dana 60 to prepare the transplant. So far, I've installed ORD's HD Tie Rod. Looking at the king pin's, I'm going to switch the passenger side cap/cover to the driver's side to eliminate the stock steering arm, since I'm running ORD's X-over. Should I rebuild the KP's now since it's not under the rig? I have no idea what the mileage on them is, and none of the posts I searched talk about the longevity of the life span of these puppies.

Are any special tools needed, other than a 7/8's hex wrench? I saw and saved the pirate4x4.com link concerning the rebuild to help out. I understand that there is a shimming trick to help with potential or existing death wobble. How does that work and how do you do it?

I know these may sound like stupid questions, but first timer here.

Thanks,

Manny

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When you get the sucker taken apart, take a pic of your kingpins and we'll let you know what we think. Unless they are scored or pitted, they should be fine.

The shimming trick involves placing one or two 2" fender washers between the cap and the kingpin spring prior to re-assembly. This shim makes a for higher preload on the kingpin spring/bushing, and has proven itself a cheap and easy way to eliminate DW.
 
The shim trick didn't work for my DW and that was also with new springs and bushings.
 
Of course there is. I did however fix my DW by installing hydro assist. :deal:
 
4X4HIGH said:
The shim trick didn't work for my DW and that was also with new springs and bushings.

Did you replace the lower bearings too? it seems that many people dont replace them and that can cause problems... if your doing the top you migtht as well do the bottom.
 
4X4HIGH said:
Of course there is. I did however fix my DW by installing hydro assist. :deal:

thats only a mask... the real problem is still there...


Then again i have used paper bags with...:doah: ive said too much:crazy::D
 
Well when i origianlly put the D60 into my rig it was fully rebuilt with new locker, gears, install kit, king pin kits, wheel bearings, rotors, tie rod ends, drag link ends. For the first year and a half or so everything was fine then the DW started. At first it only happened once in a while but it started getting worse. When i finally got tired of dealing with it i started checking and replacing parts. I installed new king pin kits (upper and lower), tie rod ends, drag link ends, rechecked wheel bearing adjustment, different steering box rebuilt by me, XJ steering shaft upgrade, new front leaf springs, all new front leaf spring and shackle bushings. With that being said there isn't another part that could be changed that would cause DW. The last straw was adding the hydro assist steering which cured it for good.
 
Hey Guys,

Thanks so much for the input. I hear y'all loud and clear. I have all new TRE's, 2wd steering box, and a 935 Borgesun Steering Shaft. My gut says to do a complete rework on the kingpins right now, while she's off, but my friend says don't waste the money till you know what's up. I can get the KP rebuild kits complete upper/lower for about $150.00, includes everything. Is this not a good idea, or just paranoia on my behalf? My logic is based on this axle is from the mid-70's and I don't know when the last time they were rebuilt.

All in all, I think I'm going to be very happy with the D60. She's a heavy sob, and needed to handle my horsepower and TSL's.

Thanks again,

Manny
 
If you plan on changing them later then i would do it now as it will be easier to do while the axle is out.
 
Well, for one 150.00 for the rebuild kits is too high, there are vendors that sell the complete kits for 49.99 plus shipping for each side.

And as for the fender washer trick, I tried it with mine, and if you look at the pic below of my old kingpin springs next to a new one, you can see why a fender washer alone might not work.

My springs were a good 1/4 inch shorter than the new ones.

But I have no history on my dana 60, it could have been beat on or lived 20 years under a plow truck.

Kingpin springs (Medium).JPG
 
garlicbreath said:
Well, for one 150.00 for the rebuild kits is too high, there are vendors that sell the complete kits for 49.99 plus shipping for each side.

And as for the fender washer trick, I tried it with mine, and if you look at the pic below of my old kingpin springs next to a new one, you can see why a fender washer alone might not work.

My springs were a good 1/4 inch shorter than the new ones.

But I have no history on my dana 60, it could have been beat on or lived 20 years under a plow truck.
Yeah, I have a vendor that has each side at $49.99 but I my understanding is that I need to do the lowers too. I haven't found a price yet, because they don't list it.... see: www.4wdfactory.com. Got them off pirate4x4.com.
Do you recommend anyone else? I really think I'm going to do this now, rather than later.

Manny
 
49.99 is for the complete kit, upper and lower. The only piece that isn't included is the lower cast centering piece and those get re-used.
 
garlicbreath said:
Well, for one 150.00 for the rebuild kits is too high, there are vendors that sell the complete kits for 49.99 plus shipping for each side.

And as for the fender washer trick, I tried it with mine, and if you look at the pic below of my old kingpin springs next to a new one, you can see why a fender washer alone might not work.

My springs were a good 1/4 inch shorter than the new ones.

But I have no history on my dana 60, it could have been beat on or lived 20 years under a plow truck.

I had 'overnight' DW issues with my Jimmy. When it got parked in July I had no DW ever, not a hint of it in the least. I did have a few washers to help with KP spring pre-load though. This was on old stiff Rancho front springs.

In the time it sat I installed 6" Alcan's with the diff moved 1.5" forward. First drive I had death wobble. I checked my caster angle and found it to be 10 degrees positive. Shimmed diff up 4 degrees so my current caster is now 6 degrees positive. Still death wobble. I added another washer which got rid of the DW but the springs were bound up and steering was spooky.

I ordered a pair of rebuild kits from NWF. The new springs were the same 1/4" taller uncompressed. My old bushings looked fine, KP's were good too. Installed new bushings and springs with no washers...steering feels 'light' and I still have DW.

Next up is adding a single washer and seeing what happens.

Rene
 
tRustyK5 said:
I had 'overnight' DW issues with my Jimmy. When it got parked in July I had no DW ever, not a hint of it in the least. I did have a few washers to help with KP spring pre-load though. This was on old stiff Rancho front springs.

In the time it sat I installed 6" Alcan's with the diff moved 1.5" forward. First drive I had death wobble. I checked my caster angle and found it to be 10 degrees positive. Shimmed diff up 4 degrees so my current caster is now 6 degrees positive. Still death wobble. I added another washer which got rid of the DW but the springs were bound up and steering was spooky.

I ordered a pair of rebuild kits from NWF. The new springs were the same 1/4" taller uncompressed. My old bushings looked fine, KP's were good too. Installed new bushings and springs with no washers...steering feels 'light' and I still have DW.

Next up is adding a single washer and seeing what happens.

Rene


Rene,

In all seriousness, I have considered adding a panhard bar up front (with a lower disconnect and a hanger to keep it out of the way for wheeling).

I think our really soft springs exacerbate the DW problem more than a factory or more "common" lift spring. I'm becoming less tolerant of my bad street manners (even with the hydro I still get occasional traces of DW).

There is just too much flexibility in the springs and when that DW harmonic starts, the springs do nothing to prevent the side-to-side oscillations.

If nothing else, adding a panhard bar will prove (or disprove) where the DW originates from.... :thinking:
 
it seems as though you'll never know if you'll have DW till you get it installed.FWIW,I just got mine done last week.Rebuilt the kingpins while it was in the garage,along with replacing everything except the carrier,gears,hubs and rotors.I left the existing tie-rod in the knuckles while I was setting up the high steer so as to preserve the toe-in.Didn't use any angle shims under the spring pack..Basically just put it right under the 6" springs.New steering box etc...I was prepared for DW after checking all of the posts here but it rides very smooth,although I haven't had it up over about 65 or 70.I guess you just never know what you'll end up with.BTW,I was prepared to put a stabilizer mount on the passenger u-bolt plate but never got that far,so I'm not even using a stabilizer on it.Go figure.
 
Greg72 said:
Rene,

In all seriousness, I have considered adding a panhard bar up front (with a lower disconnect and a hanger to keep it out of the way for wheeling).

I think our really soft springs exacerbate the DW problem more than a factory or more "common" lift spring. I'm becoming less tolerant of my bad street manners (even with the hydro I still get occasional traces of DW).

There is just too much flexibility in the springs and when that DW harmonic starts, the springs do nothing to prevent the side-to-side oscillations.

If nothing else, adding a panhard bar will prove (or disprove) where the DW originates from.... :thinking:




I thought the same thing, so I added a panhard rod after I did my 52" swap.
The way mine is it doesn't hamper flex at all, so it stays on all the time.
I noticed a HUGE improvement in steering feel on the road, mainly it felt like when I turned my wheel, there was no lag from the time the truck started turning.
But the farm style rod ends I used are already worn out so I need to find some better rod ends. And hydro is going on this week so that ghey purple stabilizer will go, I was just to lazy to clean the paint gun that day.

And damn this flash makes my junk look dirty!

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