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Would a truck with a 4 inch lift ......

R

RampageFSJ

1/2 ton status
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Location
Ulysses KS
Have 2" blocks in the rear? My buddy is wanting to lift his blazer 4" to clear some 35 inch tires and I came across an 80's 2500 being parted out locally that has a lift and a few other parts that we can use. The front measurement is thrown off because the 6.2 liter diesel is gone, along with the tranny and T case. I guessed from comparing the blazer to the truck in measurements and some guesswork might have the lift at about 3-4", but the 2" rear blocks are making me wonder. I guess it could be less lift than the front to level the truck out, but I was wanting a 2nd opinion. Also, would the springs be safe to swap between the trucks? For example, would the weight ratings be different on the front springs? If he goes for it, he's going to run the blocks in the rear until I either he gets a shackle flip, or I have a weekend to devote to making a poor man's flip for him. Thanks in advance for any help.

I may borrow the digital camera and get pics of the truck in question tomorrow.
 
Rear of the front springs? Or rear of the back springs? The front ones look much more arched than stock, though I didn't look at the shackles. And there is no shackle flip in the rear, so a longer shackle would lower it.
 
I have seen 4" kits use a 2" block with an add-a-leaf.

Fyi, 2.5" front springs look like typical lift springs but are basicall flat (as opposed to OE negative arched springs). If the springs have any real amount of arch they should be atleast 4"ers.
 
I have the camera, now I'm just waiting for my buddy to show up so we can go make a list of all of the parts that he wants / needs. I'll try to get some detailed pics of it. I'll also check for newer looking leaves (black ones among the rust colored ones) in the back spring pack so we can pull them out if there are some AAL's there.

I've heard that you don't need to lengthen the driveshafts with a 4" lift, is this true? Even with a slip yoke in the rear?
 
I now have some pics of the truck with a shot of my 35" mud terrain slipped on. Does it look like a 4" lift? I'm in a hurry, so I'll post more info. later.
outlaw001.jpg

outlaw003.jpg

outlaw005.jpg

outlaw002.jpg

outlaw004.jpg
 
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Here's more info on our shopping list of parts.
Front shocks (rear shocks are air shocks)
Front leaves
Pitman arm and draglink
Front and rear driveshafts
Sway bar
Front U bolts and plates
Brakelines from the frame to the front axle
Anything else that he might want? We may have more on the list, but I had to leave it for the truck's owner to look over.

He decided that for now, he'll go get some 4" lift springs for the rear until the truck hits stage two of the build.
 
Do those brakelines in the picture of the tire gone look extended, or stock. They look like they don't have much travel.
 
youd be better off just getting a 300 dollar ebay kit. Its all inclusive. Rough country springs are just that-rough. I cant see these used ones being any better though.
 
The front springs look like 4" because of the positive arch to them. The rear block may actually be a 3". If the blocks are tapered, then you need to measure the front side of the block, and not the back side, in order to know what size block it is.
 
Fyi, 2.5" front springs look like typical lift springs but are basicall flat (as opposed to OE negative arched springs).
Click to expand...

I have an old set of 2.5" Rancho front springs sitting in my garage. The front of the springs are flat, and the back side has a very slight negative arch to them.

If you took a quick glance at them, you would think they where flat, but if you stare at them long enough, you notice the verrrrrry slight negative arch on the back side of them. :D
 
that looks like a 4" lift to me. 2.5" is barely noticable.

i'd swap the axles and all under the Blazer if it were mine.
 
The engine is gone from it and it's being parted out while the owner is going to take the bed and axles. And so I don't cause confusion because you just realize that the engine is gone like I did on another board (I'm pretty sure that I mentioned it) I think that the fact that the driver side front tire is flat and the pass. side rear tire is low when the 35" tire went on, it should make up for the loss because the 35" tire is shoved up more. And actually, after a closer look, the block was about 2.5" measured from the rear of the block. He's buying a set of 3/4 ton axles from me (FF 14 bolt, 10 bolt) and they are geared right to make up for 35" tires.
 
the block was about 2.5" measured from the rear of the block.
Click to expand...

Yep, that means thay are 3" blocks. I have a set of 3" tapered blocks laying around, and they measure 2-1/2" on one end and 3" on the other.
 
So, do you guys agree that it is a 4" lift? I just got the price from the owner of the parts truck and I talked him down to $150 for everything on the list and $120 without the drive shafts. How does that sound?

PS: Here's what I remember fom the list of parts that we're talking about.
Front shocks (rear shocks are air shocks)
Front leaves
Pitman arm and draglink
Front and rear driveshafts
Sway bar
Front U bolts and plates
Brakelines from the frame to the front axle
 
Anybody have an opinion on the price? I think he's going to go with getting everything. He also just got a line on some 35" tires. But the seller was very unclear on whether they were swamper TSL's or Boggers. $400 and the seller said that they were close to new condition, I'll have to find this guy to look at the tires.
 
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