Would it be retarded to go back to stock?

[Pookster]

So my K5's been sitting around, while I do some massive needed repairs- mostly rust repairs, rusted exhaust, etc etc.

So Im going back to some stock parts-new (stock) cast iron headers, standard exhaust system....

I was tempted to bring her back to stock height. Right now she sits a little high, about 4.5" in the front, about 5.5 in the back (echobit flip+ 1in with relocated center pin to push the axle back).

She's also got a CV drive shaft.

I've also got a set of 8 lug 14b sf axles that need to go in, with 410 gears.

So the question was, with gas prices so retardely high, I was tempted to bring her down to more of a stock height. I was thinking replacing the springs (the rears are worn anyhow,and the front is a little higher than I need.

I kinda feel bad for even thinking about this,...

 

[AJMBLAZER]

Nah, we've had a few discussions about this lately. I personally know my "build" thread has more than a few fans of my stockish K5.

Something to be said for a stockish truck that you can drive every day with no drama and still depend on to work, haul, and wheel sensibly.

Also a wheel and tire combo that only weighs 60-70lbs instead of 100+.

 

[Blue85]

What will you spend to bring it back to stock? What will the fuel savings be? What is your time worth? I can see it for 1-2MPG if you commute 70 miles every day in it, but it sounds like you have something else for that duty. If the K5 is just for fun, make sure it is fun.

It's possible the conversion could be really cheap or even profitable as you trade people aftermarket parts for stock ones.

 

[badmix]

I know how you feel. Any mod I do to my truck, I try to keep in mind if I ever want to go back to stock. That is is why I never went too crazy. Doing stuff like cutting fenders or really bashing it up or going to crazy lifts, etc.

 

[diesel4me]

I've bought more than one "modified" truck and restored it back to "normal" in past years...my old 74 K2500 had 36" Dick Cepeck slicks on modular (rusty) rims with some hack job lift kit shoved under it,the front springs weren't even FOR a GM truck,the shackles were rubbing the bottom frame rail ,and I could barely drive the thing 3 miles home,it shook like the wheels were coming off and sounded like an airplane rolling down the street....steering wheel shook like crazy,and the whole truck wobbled badly when the brakes were applied..

First thing I did was strip the front springs out and replace them with 3 leaf factory stockers from a parts truck I parted,then took the rear lift blocks out and bought new U-bolts,and I traded the rusty rims and junk tires for a nice chrome front bumper to replace the home brewed one made of huge pipe that was also an air tank,and I also got 3 nice new group 31 batteries as part of the trade...I also put 4 stock 16" rims and tires back on it...took off the pitman arm "block" someone made to raise it back up lever too...I left the home made 3" body lift in it,only because it made getting at the bell housing bolts easier---the shifters were all hacked and extended as a result,it never did stay in 4-lo due to the body hitting the shifter lever ,it would jump out when you hit a bump...the rear driveshaft rumbled and vibrated like crazy too,and the rear U-joint litterally turned blue and fell apart after a week of putting around town...

The difference in the way the truck drove and handled after was remarkable...no more shaking,vibrations,and it tracked like it was on rails instead of veering all over the road,and it was QUIET!...like a new truck compared to its former self!..

I have had a few other trucks with lift kits and larger tires & rims,that were done "right" too--but none of them ever "felt" right driving them....so I either reverted them back to stock,or sold them off as is..I am not really a fan of lift kits--the trucks LOOK cool,but I feel they kind of ruin them for daily street driving,and I tired of being pulled over and hassled by cops who held grudges against lifted trucks too....I much prefer a stock HD suspenstion and wheels & tires...plowing with a lifted 4x4 is harder than doing so with a "normal" one too...and the big tires SUCK in snow!..lift kits are great off road,but on the street I think they are a waste of money,and they make the truck handle and ride poorly...

 

[AJMBLAZER]

Eh, a well setup lifted suspension like ORD sells and like DIY4x makes can result in a very good, nicely driving truck that in many ways is better than stock. No one can argue that the stock steering is great and crossover isn't FAR superior. However the difference between one of those costly setups and your average $500 Rough Country lift kit, or the hacked together POS setups we've all seen before, is immense.

However you'd have to spend some decent coin and live with all the basic hassles of a lifted truck such as harder getting in and out, possibly not fitting in your garage, heavy tire and wheel combos, larger spare that might not fit in the stock location, aftermarket parts that you can't get at NAPA, having to beef up drivetrain and suspension parts to handle the larger tires, etc etc etc etc.
I'd love to have The Blazer on 3/4 ton axles, 4" of lift, and 35's with a catalog full of ORD and DIY4x parts but I just don't need it and fixing all the old stock stuff will bankrupt me long before I could even think about spending that money. Stock is capable and works well for my needs.

 

[Pookster]

See, thats the funny thing, I have a set of 5 8 lug steelies on 15's, and 3/4 ton axes with 410's waiting to go in. I wanted to make it more reliable as my goal, and hence the 3'4 ton axles, and also less stress on the 700r4 (410 gears).

What I really want is a 2" lift, 33's, on 410's, 8 lug. That will give me the clearance that I need.

 

[4xcrazy]

I'm running a 4" lift and 35's, believe me, after having it for the past,,,I dunno,,, 6-7 years like this, I am about ready to drop it back down. Getting harder to get in and out of it, doesn't fit in any garage unless designed for RV's, PITS to work on under the hood, easy underneath though

I dunno, still a thought in the back of my mind that's been there for a couple of years now, especially since I know it most likely won't be seeing any more of the harder trails it's been on, mainly dirt roads and mild trails to get to the good spots at the lake for weekend fishing & camping trips.

 

[ZJumper]

I've sort of been contemplating the same thing...almost. I do agree K5's look good stock, but they need a little "something" to make them look just right.

The minimum ticket (to me anyway) for that "something" is a 2.5" kit and 33's. I"m thinking when the 35's wear out, I'm doing a 2.5" and 33's.

 

[COCHEV]

in my experience, the 2 1/2" lift rides the best. even better than stock. makes the truck sit how i think it should have from the factory. fill the wheel wells with some 33s and it looks right. my .02

 

[AJMBLAZER]

I will say I'm still debating a 2.5" or so lift. I need new springs in the back...and regular springs cost as much as lift springs...

 

[Drey]

My K5 is stock height on 32/11.5s right now and I think its just about perfect for a DD. When these are worn down I might throw some 33/10.5s on it though.

 

[djtejas]

My K5 is stock height on 32/11.5s right now and I think its just about perfect for a DD. When these are worn down I might throw some 33/10.5s on it though.

I'm running 32's with stock springs and ORD 1" zero rates...I like it.

 

[AJMBLAZER]

33's stock. Minor rubbing I could fix with a cutting wheel and 5 minutes.

 

[badmix]

33's stock. Minor rubbing I could fix with a cutting wheel and 5 minutes.

Honestly, go with the 2" spring lift, If you need springs anyway, plus your not having to hack on your truck. If you were trying to get 8-10" of lift than I can see it. But I wouldnt do that for just running 33s.

I have Rough Country 2" springs and Bilstein 5150 shocks and Im more than happy with this combo.

 

[AJMBLAZER]

Eh, budget and time. Every time I price out a full lift kit it starts getting expensive. I dunno...201k miles, have to see.

I ain't afraid to cut. Big Ugly was proof of it. Betting with lift springs I'd have rubbing in the same spot anyway.

 

[USSkoval]

For a street driver, I too like the "stockish" look. I was perfectly happy with my Blazer and it's stock springs rolling on 33's. The fenders had been lightly trimmed at the bottom, which did not bother me. BUT, I was hit in a parking lot and the driver fender got wasted, so then I bought a new GM fender. I am now going with 2.5 inch lift springs so I don't have to trim the NOS fender.

 

[blazinzuk]

Maybe its just me, but I don't think a lifted truck is that big of a deal to drive daily. As far as reliablity goes. The only thing on my Jimmy that isn't stock are the lift springs and shocks.

I much prefer a lifted truck the overall look I like driving a lifted truck, I like looking at it.

Of course I think a 6" lift and 38" tires are the right "look"

I also think my 6" superlift rides about the same as stock, which is crap. I would like to go to a different spring all together, one of them round springs

The other thing here is this I have driven lifted trucks now for about 16 years so maybe its just what I am used to. I much prefer to drive a lifted truck that is lifted correctly than a stock truck.

Unless you are towing or plowing

 

[USSkoval]

Your right, a good 4 or 6 lift rides OK compared to stock. But fuel mileage is going to suffer, and getting in and out, as well as loading/unloading items is going to be harder.

 

[blazinzuk]

Your right, a good 4 or 6 lift rides OK compared to stock. But fuel mileage is going to suffer, and getting in and out, as well as loading/unloading items is going to be harder.

all true, the mileage one can be argued though. I have had a couple trucks that were stock and then lifted. Both of them got the same mileage stock and lifted, about 10. These were 2 different trucks one on 35s with 3.73 gears when it was stock and after it was lifted. The other I put 35s on it stock got 10, 8" of lift and 38s (with 4.10s) it got 10, wasn't till I went to 40s (bias all the other were radials) and 4.56s that I saw a mileage difference and then it was only at speeds over 65 mph.

I have had other friends with several different trucks, as long as the gears are addressed ( and sometimes not) mileage for a mild lift and 35s doesn't seem to suffer much on these trucks. Obviously if the gears aren't addressed it is a different story but it seems to be hit or miss


My big debate right now is to keep the carr sidesteps on my Jimmy, sure make it nice getting in and out. But dang they will rip right off if I ever hit a stump or a rock with em.