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Would this work for a zero rate?

howdiy

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I was thinking that this would probably be easier to do and it wouldn't require a counter bore.

I could just drill and tap were I want the new spring pin

I wonder how well aluminum would hold up, I don't think it could the thread to tighten the spring down. I can get big blocks of billet for like a $1.25 a pound though. I'll see what I can find in steel, thats 89 cents a pound.

block.jpg
 
You want to drill and tap your center pin into aluminum? Thats a terribly unsafe idea. The threads will wiggle them selves loose after a drive around the block.

Not to mention aluminum starts rubbing away from the friction thats why people make an effort to not use aluminum shims.

Whats the issue with the way zero rates are designed?

If you dont wanna use the offset through bolt than just redrill your pack where you want them and run a longer single pin all the way through them.
 
it would probably work, and probably not cause an issue, since your u-bolts are what clamp it all together. However, if your u-bolts ever worked loose, just a little, then I could see it causing issues. But, just because you can, doesn't mean you should.
 
it would probably work, and probably not cause an issue, since your u-bolts are what clamp it all together. However, if your u-bolts ever worked loose, just a little, then I could see it causing issues. But, just because you can, doesn't mean you should.

My Ubolts were plenty tight when I had a bent spring pin and that truck still drove scary as hell with the steering. I couldnt imagine a shear on the street.
 
one big thing comes to mind with me.

lift blocks are steel of some kind 95% of all kits. this might be a good reason to not run aluminum as the rest dont.

centerpins have more than thay need to take care of for starters. dont add more to there heavy load thay help carry .
 
I was just thinking of these because it would be easy to make.

I think I might just weld a solid block of steel to the spring perches on the axles, I don't see anything wrong with that.

I need the rear to up a little and back some, I can't lower the front because my drag link doesn't have much room between it and the frame.

And a traction bar is definitely going to be added
 
How much lift is in the front abouts? You can run crossover with 4in of lift...

Technically yes you can weld a "block" to the perches but it would be much cleaner and I with think efficient to buy raised perches that taper up to that 1" you want.
 

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