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would this work on my rig?

yep. i've got a buddy who runs a similar one on his 1ton ford diesel and it works for him... soooo??
 
beater_k20 said:
depends on what you want to use it for... ebrake?
Click to expand...

I think he wants to do some burnouts at the track to warm up his mud tires for quicker ETAs with the, well known for its speed and power, 6.2. :D :D
 
:haha: well, i can peel out on dry pavement pretty easy w/ my 6.2... does that count?
 
then no, it wont work. the first time you leave it engaged for any period of time, it will kill the battery.

you've got a 205, now its time to call Jesse. :deal:
 
i'm thinking e-brake as far as being on the trail. it sux to have to shut off my truck every time i want to take a look at an obstacle. i'm not thinking for parking brake... my 465 holds me in place just fine.
 
I would try to find one that uses double-flare fittings (like on a normal brake line) instead of NPT fittings.

Maybe even a manual valve instead of an electric one.
Less complicated=fewer things to go wrong.
Cheaper, too.

I've seen them before but I can't seem to find them now. :doah:

edit: MICO makes manual locks but they're more spendy than the electrics.
edit2: have you thought about fixing the regular mechanical e-brake the vehicle came with?
 
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goldwing2000 said:
edit: MICO makes manual locks but they're more spendy than the electrics.
edit2: have you thought about fixing the regular mechanical e-brake the vehicle came with?
Click to expand...

cables hanging under the vehicle are bad, m'kay? plus, the line lock as an ebrake for the trail would open him up to running discs on his 14FF using standard 3/4 ton calipers without worries. i'll agree with him, that in a parking situation, the 465 should do just fine without an ebrake.
 
could someone please explain how this setup works? I don't have an ebrake either, but it would be nice to to have some sort of ebrake out on the trail...only for trail use like what colby want's to use it for... I'm running disc brakes out back....
 
smokkey1 said:
could someone please explain how this setup works?
Click to expand...
Push brake pedal.

Engage line lock.

Line Lock holds pressure to brakes.

Exit vehicle and see how deep the mud/water really is.

Re-enter vehicle.

Push brake pedal.

Disengage line lock.

Put vehicle in gear (forward or reverse, depending on how deep the mud was).

Continue on!

the line lock as an ebrake for the trail would open him up to running discs on his 14FF using standard 3/4 ton calipers without worries.
Click to expand...

I'll buy that.
 
line lock only keeps the front brakes engaged making burnouts a possibilty too! :wink1:
 
colbystephens said:
line lock only keeps the front brakes engaged making burnouts a possibilty too! :wink1:
Click to expand...

You could also put it on the rears if you're only using it for a parking brake.

That would also give the benefit of being able to use it as a cutting brake.
 
Technically, you'd need two line locks for a genuine cutting brake but the purpose of one is to provide the driver the option of locking either the left rear wheel or the right rear wheel to help improve the vehicles cornering ability.

edit: Of course, there are other things to consider, as well. If you don't have open diffs, it would also require either a NP203 full-time t-case or a twin-sticked case that you can put the rear in neutral.
 
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line locks cannot be used as a cutting brake. you'll need a cutting brake to work as a cutting brake.

they're commonly found on dune buggies for steering in wheels up situations.
 
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