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WTF?? Hub nut keeps getting loose.....

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The procedure you use is incorrect and a manual outlines the correct procedure. The way you are doing it now puts WAY too much preload on the bearings. Like Russ said, too much preload can cause bearing failure and subsequently cause an accident. Not admitting that you are doing it wrong doesn't help at all and that is part of the reason I gave you a smartass response.
 
BlueBlazer62 said:
The procedure you use is incorrect and a manual outlines the correct procedure. The way you are doing it now puts WAY too much preload on the bearings. Like Russ said, too much preload can cause bearing failure and subsequently cause an accident. Not admitting that you are doing it wrong doesn't help at all and that is part of the reason I gave you a smartass response.
I dont know what manual you are looking at but according to my manual I AM doing it the right way. The manual I have is a factory GM service manual I got from a friend at my local chevy dealership. According to the manual, you tighten the inner nut to 35 ft lbs. At 35 ft lbs, the hub will NOT spin freely. However, according to the manual, the next step is to back the nut off appx 3/8 of a turn to ensure free hub rotation. Although I do not own a torque wrench, I did do it properly. I can tell you this because I Tightened the inner nut just to the point that the hub began to "snag." After that, I backed the nut off just barely until the hub began to spin freely again. Even though I dont have a torque wrench, there is no real torque spec for this nut. It says 35 ft lbs, but it also says that 35 will just barely make the hub snag and you will have to back it off some (therefore it is no longer at 35 ft lbs). So when I tightened it and the hub just barely began to snag, I was at that point. There is no real torque spec because it varies on how much you have to turn the nut to loesn the hub back up. The manual says until the hub begins to spin freely, which is exactly what I did.
The next step the manual states is obvious. It says "assemble lockring (with tab in keyway) against bearing nut." Then it says to tighten the outer nut to 183 ft lbs. With a 1/2" ratchet, 183 ft lbs is more force than your arm can exert, so I put a short cheater bar over the end of the wratchet and cranked it down a little more.
I have put together many hubs and the only one that I have had come apart is this one. The only reason it came apart was that the nipple on the inner nut broke off. When I put it back together the 1st time I didnt realize this, so it came apart in 3 days. I realized that it should not do this, so I gave it a closer inspection. That revealed the broken off nipple. Not once have I ever had a wheel bearing burn up from torquing the inner nut too much, because the procedure I use to do it, like I stated above, is correct. Its easy for you to say "your doing it wrong look at a manual" but it is apparent that you are the one who needs to look at a manual. You said "the procedure you use is incorrect and a manual outlines the procedure" but you didnt bother to tell me the proper procedure according to your manual because you never looked at one. You assumed that because it came apart, I was doing it wrong, and I needed to look at a manual to do it right. You still dont get the fact that I AM doing it right even after I told you that the hub didnt come apart from me tightening the inner nut incorrectly, but from the nipple being broken off. I put a new nut on, and have driven over 200 miles since then and everything is smooth as silk. I think you need to admit that you were wrong.
BTW- If I post another question up about anything, I DO want your input as to the cause of the problem. But please, try not to give smartass responses because it does nothing bu piss people off. Especially when your smartass response was wrong.
-Harrison
 
My head hurts now.

183 Ft/Lbs just sounds wrong. I doubt that anyone could even keep those stupid hub sockets on the spindle nut while attempting to attain 183Ft/Lbs.
 
I did make sure to tighten the inner nut down until it couldnt get any tighter without making the wheel unable to turn

I can tell you this because I Tightened the inner nut just to the point that the hub began to "snag." After that, I backed the nut off just barely until the hub began to spin freely again.

Either way you say it, you still preloaded the bearing too much. It takes a lot of torque to makes the rotor not able to turn, trust me, this isn't my first rodeo.

My service manual says:

2. Torque the inner adjusting nut to 50 foot pounds, (60 Nm) while rotating hub-and-disc to seat the bearings. Use Tool J-6893 and Adapter J-23446 pr J-6893-01 for K10, K20; use J-26878 for K30. Back off inner adjusting nut and retorque to 35 ft. lbs. (47 Nm) while the hub is being rotated.
3. Back off the inner adjusting nut again 3/8 turn maximum.

From a Haynes manual:

30 Attach a torque wrench to the special socket.

31 While rotating the wheel, tighten the adjusting nut to 50 ft lbs and then back off 90-degrees.

32 While continuing to rotate the wheel, tighten the adjusting nut to 35 ft lbs and back it off 3/8 turn.



Sooo, first of all you admittedly did not use a torque wrench, which alone means you did it wrong. Then, you admittedly did not back it off the nut 3/8 of a turn which is also wrong. What you did is fine for a trail only rig, or just to get off of a trail after a hub removal to fix some sort of breakage, but it is not acceptable on the road no matter how right you and your brother think you are.
 
EDIT: Here it is....hot off the press and accurate. From Helm.



WHEEL BEARING ASSEMBLY AND ADJUSTMENT

  1. To reassemble the wheel bearings: drive the outer bearing cup into the hub, replace the inner bearing cup, and insert the repacked bearing.
  2. Install the disc or drum and outer wheel bearing to the spindle.
  3. Adjust the bearings by rotating the hub and tightening the inner adjusting nut to 50 ft. lbs., then loosening it and retightening to 35 ft. lbs. Next, back the nut off 3/8 turn or less. Turn the nut to the nearest hole in the lockwasher. Install the outer locknut and torque to a minimum of 80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm) on 1980 models, 160-205 ft. lbs. (216-277 Nm) on 1981 and later 1/2 and 3/4 ton models, and 65 ft. lbs. (88 Nm) on 1 ton vehicles. There should be 0.001-0.010 in. bearing end-play. This can be measured with a dial indicator.

 
How wimpy is your impact wrench. Mine would surely rip the threads off of the spindle.

And how would you know how much torque you applied. My gun goes to around 600Ft/Lbs
 
Just when you got a touch of credibility back from me in your earlier post, you have just lost of all that and then some. Keep your hillbilly wrenching methods out of the midwest please so I don't encounter you on the road.
 
BlueBlazer62 said:
Sooo, first of all you admittedly did not use a torque wrench, which alone means you did it wrong. What you did is fine for a trail only rig, or just to get off of a trail after a hub removal to fix some sort of breakage, but it is not acceptable on the road no matter how right you and your brother think you are.
We drive both of our trucks everyday on the road. It is my only vehicle and only means of transportation. That means when I make a repair, it has to hold up every day no matter what. If I am doing it so wrong, how is it that I have NEVER EVER had bearing failure in my hub and I have always done it this way?? I even 4 wheel in muddy water, and in the 2 years that the other bearings were in there, nothing failed except the nipple on the inner nut. According to what you have said, I am doing it completley wrong and my bearings should not last for more than a few hundred miles. How about this, when these bearings that I just put in about 200 miles ago fail, I will let you know. I am willing to bet you anything right now that they will last as long as muddy water does not enter the hub. I know exactly how to do this job. None of my hub bearings have ever failed doing it this way, and neither have my brothers.
All of this aside, your still missing the point. I have but one question for you:
WHY DID MY HUB LOOSEN UP IN THE FIRST PLACE????????
Obviously you missed that explaination, because my question wasnt "how do I put my hub back together," it was "what makes the hub loosen up."
-Harrison
 
Listen up peckerwood, your work failed, not your bearing. I never said your bearing would fail (although they definitely can), but I did point out that you are doing everything wrong. You can do shoddy work and have it last for years, or it may last a couple miles. This does not change the fact that you did it wrong. I just saw that you are pretty young still. You need to learn to heed the advice of others and do things right rather than trying to argue that you weren't wrong and needing correction in the first place. I am done with this thread since I am sure Russ is not happy with the way it has turned out and I do not want to push the issue further.
 
That's enough, points are made. I'm locking the thread.
 
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