x over steering

[blazin_blazer]

i have a 3/4 ton corp 10 bolt front and i also have a 1/2 ton d44 w/flattop knuckles. can you use the d44 passenger side knuckle and the 10 bolt spindle? or is the round pattern of studs where the spindle bolts to the knuckle different, meaning you need from balljoints out to install the crossover steering? also can you just swap the passenger side or would you have to put the outter d44 stuff on the drivers side also? then will i have to change the short outer axel also. a good link to a thread covering this or an answer either one would be greatly appreciated...thanks

 

[dremu]

i have a 3/4 ton corp 10 bolt front and i also have a 1/2 ton d44 w/flattop knuckles. can you use the d44 passenger side knuckle and the 10 bolt spindle? or is the round pattern of studs where the spindle bolts to the knuckle different, meaning you need from balljoints out to install the crossover steering? also can you just swap the passenger side or would you have to put the outter d44 stuff on the drivers side also? then will i have to change the short outer axel also. a good link to a thread covering this or an answer either one would be greatly appreciated...thanks

The spindles from your 10b *should* fit the D44 knuckles. I gather there are two styles of spindles on D44's, but I know at least one is the same. It may be that the bolt pattern is the same on both, but they have different bearings, so as long as you have a complete set of 10b outers you should be able to put those onto the D44 knuckles.

I would change both knuckles, unless you're going high-steer, to ensure that both knuckles do top-down or bottom-up for the tie rod ends.

You do not have to change the axle shafts. Heck, when I did mine, I used everything off my 8-lug 10bolt *except* the knuckles.

-- A

 

[thedrip]

You can swap just the d44 knuckles, and reuse all of your 10bolt stuff on them. Change both sides, in case you ever need to use a normal tie-rod. You can put the 10bolt knuckles back onto the d44, and sell it that way, too.

As for changing the stub shaft, if you're changing knuckles, you've already taken the shaft out, so then it's just like changing a ujoint in a driveline.

 

[dremu]

Umm, the shafts are *not* interchangeable from D44 to 10b ... so use the shafts from whichever axle, i.e. center section, you're using.

Well, the stubs might be the same ... but unless yours is damaged or something you don't NEED to change them. Am I making sense?

-- A

 

[blazin_blazer]

i gotcha, can use everything in my 10b on the 44 knuckle. 10-4 but what do you mean by a highsteer? i,ve seen x-over w/2wd steering box arm with a link over to a rh steering arm(thus flat top) and just have the bar the steering stabilizer mounts to, tie the tires together.

 

[dremu]

i gotcha, can use everything in my 10b on the 44 knuckle. 10-4 but what do you mean by a highsteer? i,ve seen x-over w/2wd steering box arm with a link over to a rh steering arm(thus flat top) and just have the bar the steering stabilizer mounts to, tie the tires together.

That latter is the tie rod. Don't get me started about steering stabs

Anyway, you CAN mount the tie rod from one knuckle to the other, as you have now, aka "low steer."

You may find, depending on your springs and whether the knuckles expect the tie rod to go in from the top or the bottom, that your tie rod won't fit. I got a fancy heavy-duty one and couldn't get it all to go together... so I have a steering arm on EACH knuckle, and the tie rod goes across those, ABOVE the springs. That's high steer.

There's also reverse high steer, seen with Dana 60's, where the tie rod goes up and BEHIND the axle ... but that's as makes no nevermind.

-- A