XJ Shaft Trouble

[schuttothrill]

OK Gents,

I searched and didn't find an xj shaft similar to mine.

I need to collapse this about an inch and a half, but there's this metal sleeve that looks like it might be what is providing the friction that keeps the two parts together.

I'd remove it, but I don't want to just indiscriminately start hacking stuff if someone has come across this style before.

Thanks in advance!!

 

[jt512]

Not sure on the sleeve, but I believe your shaft is from a newer XJ then what most of us have used , 96 and older IIRc.

 

[sweetk30]

should be plastic glued on in place.

and read here for shaft install and mods. http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=169874

 

[454Sub]

It might be the plastic sleeve that is glued on there. If it is, just pry it off and then take the shaft all the way apart, which is a pain. Then what I did was bust the teflon bushings out, and slid it back together. In my experience, I didnt think it needed a set screw or anything, as once its bolted up its not going to fall apart or anything.

 

[schuttothrill]

Roger that guys I'll give it a shot. I do know for a fact that it's out of a first-gen XJ as I removed it myself. My DD is a '99 XJ So I'm aware of the difference between the two body styles.

Looks like there are two types of pre-97 shafts, and I do have one of them, but that metal sleeve spotwelded onto the smaller portion threw me for a loop. Apparently 99% of everybody else takes it off before they take their pics or something.

Thanks for the help guys, I'll get to prying off that sleeve- I intend to heat it up just enough so that the plastic slips a bit to collapse.. I'm not a fan of removing the plastic altogether. To me it's a good thing- one just has to take steps to work with it and not against it.

 

[schuttothrill]

HA so the little sleeve was plastic, and took all of ONE second to pop off with a screwdriver, just like everyone said.

I am ashamed.

Now it's heat gun time.


Thanks again guys

 

[K85 Octane]

don't bother taking it apart, it's not worth it. Heat it and collapse it slowly till it's the right length, then stop. Only problem with doing this is it might be a pain getting it in place, taking the steering box off and all. BUT, it will keep the shaft tight without having to do any extra mods to it. Preferred method of collapsing: Using a floor jack with shaft standing up against something that wont move. Just be careful not to hurt the ends or collapse the upper mount. Once you are done collapsing it, throw a quick weld on the upper bushing. This should be done, but often overlooked, and people end up going back to do it.

Just saying from experience. Here's a pic of mine. I pulled it apart and ended up modding the shaft to take the slop out. You can also see the weld on the top bushing, sort of. First post has some better pics of the welds. There are two different shafts that can be used, yours might look a little different on top. http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=288689&highlight=shafts

 

[schuttothrill]

Thanks for the advice! That's exactly what I ended up doing. I sat my heat gun on a surface so that it pointed right at the sweet spot, then I just tapped the shaft as the plastic just started to let go, down to the mark where I estimated it needed to be. Perfect! Also, the CUCV now has tilt steering

 

[schuttothrill]

AND DELAY WIPERS!!! I think the finned heat sink thing that came with the tilt column must be the resistor that gives you delay wipers... SO AWESOME!

 

[ryoken]

don't bother taking it apart, it's not worth it. Heat it and collapse it slowly till it's the right length, then stop. Only problem with doing this is it might be a pain getting it in place, taking the steering box off and all. BUT, it will keep the shaft tight without having to do any extra mods to it. Preferred method of collapsing: Using a floor jack with shaft standing up against something that wont move. Just be careful not to hurt the ends or collapse the upper mount. Once you are done collapsing it, throw a quick weld on the upper bushing. This should be done, but often overlooked, and people end up going back to do it.

Just saying from experience. Here's a pic of mine. I pulled it apart and ended up modding the shaft to take the slop out. You can also see the weld on the top bushing, sort of. First post has some better pics of the welds. There are two different shafts that can be used, yours might look a little different on top. http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=288689&highlight=shafts

why weld it? i collapsed mine, installed and it seems fine...

 

[diesel4me]

I would think welding it might not be such a good idea,as the shaft cant collapse any should you get in an accident,instead the steering colum might get shoved thru your chest........................................................................................I am tempted to get a jeep shaft like these and put it in my '82 k2500,the rag joint in it looks ready to tear apart and the other end with the CV type joint at the colum has slop in it too...my steering colum bearings sound rough like they are all rusted and have no grease in them too,but I'm not too enthused about replacing the colum unless I really have too--I saved a non-tilt one from my 77 GMC in case I had too someday...I busted the ignition switch though,when I knocked it over in my garage not long ago... sigh....

 

[K85 Octane]

why weld it? i collapsed mine, installed and it seems fine...

The rubber inside that upper collar tends to wear out and loose it's grip on the shaft. I see it all the time at the junkyards. If I see it happening that often in a factory setting, with smaller tires and less stress, I'm not going to be happy leaving it on my truck. If it's lose, the shaft can slide up and down but more dangerously... turn inside the rubber.

I would think welding it might not be such a good idea,as the shaft cant collapse any should you get in an accident

I agree with what you are saying, but different place to weld. Not the tube, the collar up top

 

[ryoken]

i have no crue what your talking about.....

unless I have a different heep shaft... mines out of an early 90's cherokee...

here's the slip joint on mine, it has absolutely no way for one to turn inside the other, metal to metal...

and as pointed out earlier, you want a slip joint for a collision..

 

[K85 Octane]

the upper joint Paul, where the tube goes into the collar that holds onto the universal. The rubber inside that can become VERY sloppy.

 

[ryoken]

ah, ok, cool... mines fine, but I'll definitely keep an eye on it and get back in there and lay a bead when i get a chance...

 

[dhcomp]

why weld it? i collapsed mine, installed and it seems fine...

When my truck was out of commission, and i had to move it with manual steering, my shaft spun at the point everyone is telling you to weld.

Now mine is a ball of weld, and i hear all the harmonics of the pump through the steering shaft

 

[ryoken]

well, mine seemed perfectly fine when I installed it, no sign of play up there whatsoever..

 

[K85 Octane]

haha! Other than large tires and a soft suspension, my truck drives like a new one. The steering has ZERO slack. I mean zero, nothing, move it a degree and it turns. I can't recall feeling anything different when changing steering shafts. I have DIY4X motor mounts too and don't really notice any more vibrations.

granted hydro, X-over, and brand new everything up front helps too. It's crazy with a small 13" steering wheel, like a go cart.

 

[dhcomp]

well, mine seemed perfectly fine when I installed it, no sign of play up there whatsoever..

It wasn't a play issue, just that it could only take so much force before it "broke loose" at that upper vibration isolation joint.

Scary to think i could break something in my steering system by hand, on the street.

I'd at least weld where these other people are, and hopefully retain a bit of the vib isolation.