NEK5
3/4 ton status
by any chance, do you have the part number of the mat you used from LMC truck?
CK5
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Yanking carpet, Updates on Page 3 w/ ***PICS***. all complete.
- Thread starter badmix
- Start date
badmix
1/2 ton status
Not off the top of my head. Jus check LMC online.
********************UPDATE*********************
Well, that was more daunting then I had invisioned. I must say that really sux'd. I finally got it all done. This is a tidious task. Expect LOTS of time to complete it. Ive got about 5.5+ 3. So, ive got 8.5 hours in jus putting this IN. I had stripped the interior previously, expect the carpet itself, but removed all the seats, etc prior to putting this in. Like I said earlier, that back 1/2 is jus like putting a rubber mat down in a truck bed, expect the rear seat stuff.
Oh, and good luck finding and lining up the holes you need. lol. This mat has nothing to indicate where anything is. Its not really form fitted like I had thought it would. It does fit loose like I thought up around the foot area of the driver and passenger. It is nice to slide right in and out of the Blazer though and the black looks cool.
How I found the holes underneith was like this. I would run my hand under the mat and locate the holes with my finger, than I would use a thin hole punch and push from the top, feeling the pressure on my fingernail (most sensitive part of the hand BTW), As you are moving the punch around and pushing down (your not tryin to push thru, jus feel for where the hole is). you will know when your on top of your nail that is over the hole. You hold the punch in place, remove hand and punch thru. In the beginning I was only off by cm, but near the end I had it down pat. Then I would take an Xacto <sp> knife and cut out the smallest square over the hole that I need to get the bolts thru. After awhile I got better and quicker at this. In the beginning ya gotta go slow and be careful, that sucka is sharp.
As far as the insulation, i got the roll that LMC sells for like 29bux. It covers MOST of the cab area, but where the back seat ppl sit though. But my Mat came with insulation like the factory had, but its only enuff to cover the compete cab section, there was no insulation in the back section and I didnt put any back there.
As far as cutting thru the insulation, it aint goin to happen. Once I got the hole cut thru the rubber mat, I jus used the same hole punch in wiggled it around the hole and moved the insulation outa the way with it. like reaming it somewhat. This worked well. sometimes I would have to tap or push on the bolt to get it past the insulation and onto the threads. Below are some hints and tips:
1) Xacto knife and thin hole punch were all that was needed (other than the wrenches to put OEM parts in/out) but those two items are all you need to properly fit this.
2) Do not trim the Edges until the very end. I made a mistake and tried to trim it to fit b4 putting seats and everything back in, ive got a lil gap on the pass. side wheel well that Ill need to cover up (its bare floor now), ive got some extra rubber mat that ill toss over there and maybe glue to the existing mat.
3) Cut the 4wd shifter hole first, base the whole placement of the mat off of this.
4) Expect to invest lots of time into this, im no expect, but ive done my far share of auto mechanics.
Pics coming soon, i needed a break, lol.
********************UPDATE*********************
Well, that was more daunting then I had invisioned. I must say that really sux'd. I finally got it all done. This is a tidious task. Expect LOTS of time to complete it. Ive got about 5.5+ 3. So, ive got 8.5 hours in jus putting this IN. I had stripped the interior previously, expect the carpet itself, but removed all the seats, etc prior to putting this in. Like I said earlier, that back 1/2 is jus like putting a rubber mat down in a truck bed, expect the rear seat stuff.
Oh, and good luck finding and lining up the holes you need. lol. This mat has nothing to indicate where anything is. Its not really form fitted like I had thought it would. It does fit loose like I thought up around the foot area of the driver and passenger. It is nice to slide right in and out of the Blazer though and the black looks cool.
How I found the holes underneith was like this. I would run my hand under the mat and locate the holes with my finger, than I would use a thin hole punch and push from the top, feeling the pressure on my fingernail (most sensitive part of the hand BTW), As you are moving the punch around and pushing down (your not tryin to push thru, jus feel for where the hole is). you will know when your on top of your nail that is over the hole. You hold the punch in place, remove hand and punch thru. In the beginning I was only off by cm, but near the end I had it down pat. Then I would take an Xacto <sp> knife and cut out the smallest square over the hole that I need to get the bolts thru. After awhile I got better and quicker at this. In the beginning ya gotta go slow and be careful, that sucka is sharp.
As far as the insulation, i got the roll that LMC sells for like 29bux. It covers MOST of the cab area, but where the back seat ppl sit though. But my Mat came with insulation like the factory had, but its only enuff to cover the compete cab section, there was no insulation in the back section and I didnt put any back there.
As far as cutting thru the insulation, it aint goin to happen. Once I got the hole cut thru the rubber mat, I jus used the same hole punch in wiggled it around the hole and moved the insulation outa the way with it. like reaming it somewhat. This worked well. sometimes I would have to tap or push on the bolt to get it past the insulation and onto the threads. Below are some hints and tips:
1) Xacto knife and thin hole punch were all that was needed (other than the wrenches to put OEM parts in/out) but those two items are all you need to properly fit this.
2) Do not trim the Edges until the very end. I made a mistake and tried to trim it to fit b4 putting seats and everything back in, ive got a lil gap on the pass. side wheel well that Ill need to cover up (its bare floor now), ive got some extra rubber mat that ill toss over there and maybe glue to the existing mat.
3) Cut the 4wd shifter hole first, base the whole placement of the mat off of this.
4) Expect to invest lots of time into this, im no expect, but ive done my far share of auto mechanics.
Pics coming soon, i needed a break, lol.
NEK5
3/4 ton status
well, i`m looking into doing this soon, and my interior is pretty much stripped on the floor, just have a little section of the carpet left where your feet go, but all the old insulation is already pulled out....hopefully i`ll have a little easier time than you did.....
badmix
1/2 ton status
One thing, this kit came with the wheel well covers, but after the PITA this was, the carpet can stay, lol. I ended up cutting the wheel well rubber to fill other spots.
Pulling the old carpet and insulation is a chore only cuz of the weight. its cumbersome and a handful. Anyways...on with the pics.
Pic 1 & 2 - rear cargo area
Pic 3 & 4 - front section
Pic 5 - pass. side front section where I cut too much off b4 properly fitting it. I used the rubber wheel well material to cut a filler piece and filled in that section, not bad, But I need to get some super tack and get it to stick together better.
Pulling the old carpet and insulation is a chore only cuz of the weight. its cumbersome and a handful. Anyways...on with the pics.
Pic 1 & 2 - rear cargo area
Pic 3 & 4 - front section
Pic 5 - pass. side front section where I cut too much off b4 properly fitting it. I used the rubber wheel well material to cut a filler piece and filled in that section, not bad, But I need to get some super tack and get it to stick together better.
badmix
1/2 ton status
more pics.......
Pic 1 , 2 & 3 - rear pass. area
Pic 4 - tools of the trade. lol
So there ya have it.
Pic 1 , 2 & 3 - rear pass. area
Pic 4 - tools of the trade. lol
So there ya have it.
well it's looks pretty nice and all, but sounds like way to much trouble... i think i'll just undercoat bedline and get some thick ass mats...
sandawgk5
3/4 ton status
The way I have always seen holes found is to put the fastener back in the hole and lay the carpet or rubber over the top. Take a knife and cut an X or a - over the top of the fastener and the covering will laydown right over the top of it. Hole in covering and lined up.
Ira
Ira
What's up with the big gap here? Was it made to narrow?
http://coloradok5.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=33108&d=1162071398
badmix
1/2 ton status
IGOR said:
No that gap was my fault. I cut the edges BEFORE bolting everthing in. WHen you lay out rubber matting and cut it and then put in all the seats and what not, it draws the mat inward, causing that gap. ive since filled in the gap with some extra rubber mat that I jus layed under the big piece. it looks okay and does what its suppose to. Personally, id like to see and ride in a Blazer with bedliner. cuz this was a major PITA. It works and the insulation does a very good job.
sound deading
I'm a part time sound engineer and have done a lot of research on sound deading for my studio which I have applied to my suburban. The burb was so loud inside I thought about buying headsets so one could have a conversation in it while going down the hwy... Apart from buying the adhesive backed, foil covered stuff in small squares for big dough the best alternative I've found is high durometer neoprene. I found it in 4' wide rolls in a number of thicknesses. It's heavy like Mass Loaded Vinyl which keeps low freq as well as high freq noise out. It's really dense, you wouldnt even think that its neoprene. Made a huge difference by just doing the floor of the cargo area. I can did up more info if anyone is interested...
I'm a part time sound engineer and have done a lot of research on sound deading for my studio which I have applied to my suburban. The burb was so loud inside I thought about buying headsets so one could have a conversation in it while going down the hwy... Apart from buying the adhesive backed, foil covered stuff in small squares for big dough the best alternative I've found is high durometer neoprene. I found it in 4' wide rolls in a number of thicknesses. It's heavy like Mass Loaded Vinyl which keeps low freq as well as high freq noise out. It's really dense, you wouldnt even think that its neoprene. Made a huge difference by just doing the floor of the cargo area. I can did up more info if anyone is interested...
NEK5
3/4 ton status
hey would you be intersted in selling your rubber mat???Metrodps said:
what seats are you running? looks good
