Yanking the motor...

[dremu]

Since the motor seems to think it's a Detroit, i.e. No-Spin See http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=187193

I figger it's a nice winter project to pull the thing, in preparation of having enough money to rebuild it or get a crate (still toying with the options.) The tranny has been running okay but leaks like a sieve, so it sounds like a good time to deal with that mess.

Truck is a '74 C30 sixpack, 454/TH400. I think I'll pull the engine and tranny as one, which means removing the hood (it's misaligned anyway), and the radiator and batteries and such up front, no big deal.

I have a nice cherry picker, like 2-ton with the arm at the shortest, and one of those engine balancer things ... uhh... like

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?categorycode=3396&mfrcode=PBI&mfrpartnumber=647525

one of those. Should have enough chain to hook to the engine and tranny.

Anything else I'd need, tool-wise? For the removal, that is -- rebuilding would be left to a pro

Also, quick check-off of stuff to disconnect:

Driveshaft, of course
Fuel lines at the fuel pump
Tranny cooler lines at both ends
Motor and transmission mounts, tranny crossmember
Shift linkage
Minor electrical stuff, like the coolant sensor on the driver's side

Should prolly pull the dizzy BEFORE the engine comes out, so I don't crack the cap or anything, yeah?

Any other gotchas I should be aware of? Should I forego the engine-and-tranny-as-one idea and pull the engine up, drop the tranny down? I *really* don't want to pull the carpet and the floor hump on this truck ... or do the 2WD's even have the removable hump?

-- A

 

[divorced]

You can pull just the engine and leave the transmission in the truck if you have no trans work to do. Place a jack under the trans pan to remove the engine, then use some heavy gauge wire to support the transmission by putting it through one of the bolt holes and tieing it to the brake booster or something else solid. Otherwise, I would pull them as one unit. Removing the fan will give you some extra room too. Chains connected to the engine. The crossmember may be able to stay. Lift the engine off the mounts, then lift the tailshaft to get the bolt out of the crossmember and everything should move forward.



Speedo cable and kick down wire.

There may be a ground strap, possibly from the rear of the passenger head to the firewall.

Have fun with the exhaust.

 

[Citizen Rider]

remove exhaust off manifolds, ground wire on pass. rear of block, sending units(oil pressure, temp...), pull cap off distibutor atleast, Might pull the fan off so its less to catch and cut yourself on also, drain the tranny of its fluid!!! going to loose coolant out of the block also, When pulling it have a buddy to help, Watch for the AC "housing" on the firewall on the pass. side. the engine and tranny get really close when pulling it out and can break it easily. Speedo cable.

Pretty easy to notice if you forgot something while pulling. Just take your time.

 

[DEMON44]

I pulled the 454 out of my old '86 3+3 without touching the dizzy, but I also yanked the radiator.

 

[dremu]

Ah yes, speedo cable ... exhaust... ground straps, check.

Kickdown wire is electric, being a TH400. Check. I think I'm gonna pull the tranny regardless, get this truck done right, maybe it'll make it to BlazerBash 2008

The tranny will be drained ... the engine has already drained itself of coolant and the fan is already off as part of my diagnosis of its no-spin attribute, so that's all good.

-- A

 

[gmc4cw]

removing the entire radiator support gives you tons of room to work. Then you don't have to go real high with the engine to get it out. Don't forget the power steering hoses.

 

[DEMON44]

oh and the hood.

 

[divorced]

Don't forget the power steering hoses.

I usually just unbolt the pump from the motor and set it to the side so I don't have to worry about refilling it again.