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Yay...I get to replace my clutch

readymix

readymix

3/4 ton status
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It's been feeling a little weird for the last 3 days or so. This morning it was shot. Could not start the truck without it lunging forward when I tried.

NAPA can get me whatever brand they have for $130. Comes with the clutch disk, pressure plate, throwout bearing, and the pilot bearing.

I have read on here that there are 2 different sizes. 11" and some other size.
Is there any way to tell what I have before I remove the tranny?

Also, should I spring for the LUK clutch or just use the one mentioned above? Money is a factor.
 
I would just run the stock replacement clutch, that's what I did with mine. 11" is the most common but there is a 12" and a 10 (and some change)" My understanding is that you can run any of them as long as everything is for the same diameter clutch
 
My research shows the '87 pickup w/305 used an 11" clutch. The brochures didn't list regular pickups.
 
The NAPA would be fine but if something goes out it's always a good time to upgrade assuming you have some money lying around for it. In my K5 I have a billet steel flywheel that's lighter than stock and dual friction clutch from Centerforce. It's overkill as hell but oh well.
 
Since money is a factor I would go with the standard replacement clutch. Atleast you dont have a double to drop with your transmission also:D.

Dik
 
I would get the Luk, no questions asked. DO NOT GET A REMAN whatever your do. They are crap and have very high probablity of failure quickly. Get new components, all of them, new clutch disc, pressure plate, throwout bearing. If the Napa one is all new, that's one thing, but at $130, it's probably a reman, or a mix new disc, reman pressure plate, etc. Ask them. They have all new ones as well, just ask.
But LUK is an OEM brand, get it if you can, they are my favorite brand, LUK makes centerforce discs, if you didn't know. THey are an excellent supplier.
If your going to go thru all the trouble involved in replacing a clucth, you might as well spend the extra $$$ so you won't be doing it again soon.
I've replaced my share of clutchs in my college days when I had no dough, it absolultly sucks to pull a tranns/transfer case that you just had out 3 months prior, add to the that a dead of a Michigan UP winter, much fun.
 
I did ask if the set was a new or reman. It is all new components.

I will look around for a good deal on the LUK clutches.
 
73k5blazer said:
I've replaced my share of clutchs in my college days when I had no dough, it absolultly sucks to pull a tranns/transfer case that you just had out 3 months prior, add to the that a dead of a Michigan UP winter, much fun.
Click to expand...


Yea i have replaced clutches in UP winters not fun. South Range + winter = tons of snow
 
I'd stick with the 11" clutch behind a 305...not much need for bigger. A 12" would fit just as easily though, the flywheel for both is the same it's only the disc and pressure plate that changes.

I agree on the Luk...a bit more money now, but you're getting a great clutch and peace of mind knowing you won't be under the truck replacing a clutch again in a few months.

Rene
 
jtrux said:
The NAPA would be fine but if something goes out it's always a good time to upgrade assuming you have some money lying around for it. In my K5 I have a billet steel flywheel that's lighter than stock and dual friction clutch from Centerforce. It's overkill as hell but oh well.
Click to expand...

I did the same thing in my truck. I don't ever want to have a clutch problem again. Thats what always seems to happen, something breaks I have to upgrade it. :cool:
 
Well I got the tranny down and so far the pilot bearing has kicked my ass all day.
Going to rent to puller tomorrow and get the flywheel turned.
 
Did you try the grease method? Where you pack grease in there and drive a wood dowel as big as fits thru the hole, down the center, and the grease make a hydraulic action and pushed out the bearing.

Actually, that never worked so well for me. The grease always seems to find it's way out around the edges of the dowel.

What I ended up doing it making my own little jig to press it out. A bolt with a rectangular piece of metal thick enough where you could tap it. angle the metal inside the hole, once in, reposition the metal rectangle to grab 2 edges behind the bearing, then insert bolt and tighten. The size of the rectangular piece of metal was critical. Small enough to angle and fit thru hole, but big enough to be able to resposition it behind the bearing.
Perhaps that's what the puller is, but nobody around me had a puller for that.
 
I tried the grease and the wet paper towel methods. NoGo.
I also broke every attachment to my cheap POS harbor freight slide hammer.
 
I just bought a harbor freight "pilot bearing puller" for $10. I used it to pull spindle bearings on the front end, but it may work ok for pilot bearings too.

Those bearings are a pain to install. I hate to think how difficult it will be to remove.
 
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