OK...OK...OK...yes I am gloating...but I just got a set of yellow spicer NOS dials...one of which is a NOS hub set:
CK5
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Yellow Spicer Dials
- Thread starter Chief Brody
- Start date
How much did that set you back?
YA right.
Nice score!! 
Depends on where you got them from.
An individual who has no clue what he had, $10.
A seller cleaning out his garage, $40.
An eBayer out for a kill, $500.
gotblazers
1/2 ton status
I dont get why these are worth anything, I had my original hubs crap out on me. I much prefer my warn premiums. Arents these just the stock hubs that came on our trucks?
for the orignal post person he is going for a specific look .
and read this info near the bottom on spicer hubs - warn hubs.
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=280735&highlight=spicer
eBayer not out for such a big kill...more than I wanted to pay, but honestly, how often do you see these?
For the locking hub complete I paid $90
For the lone yellow dial I paid $30
For the locking hub complete I paid $90
For the lone yellow dial I paid $30
greatwhitez71
1/2 ton status
whats that GM part number on the box for the hub assembly?
greatwhitez71
1/2 ton status
at first i thought you were hollaring at me, then i realized that u typed all your replys with that much enthusiasm.
thanks alot
thanks alot
Now I need help with the installation order:
and notice how there appears to be a "left" and "right" dial?
and notice how there appears to be a "left" and "right" dial?
That is a later style Spicer hub. Internally it is going to be different than the hubs you have now. It should still work. All you care about is the outside appearance.
The tin cup (6) goes in first with the cup end going toward the bearing inside the hub. It is suppose to sit on the O/D bearing race while clearing the inner bearing. The spring (1) goes next with the big end toward the inside of the hub and sits on (6).
(Edit. - I may be wrong here. the spring may go the other way. The should be a groove in (3) that the spring sits into, so whichever end of the spring sits the groove is the way the spring goes.)
Now, this is where I not familiar with the later hubs. Never seen one in person.
I think (3) goes next then (5). Do the "dogs" have the chamfer on both sides of the teeth? If not you want the chamfers of the drive gears towards each other. (5) should be held on the stub shaft by a snap ring.
(2) goes on next followed by (4). (4) is also held in place by a snap ring.
Install dial in (7) and screw 7 onto (4).
The tin cup (6) goes in first with the cup end going toward the bearing inside the hub. It is suppose to sit on the O/D bearing race while clearing the inner bearing. The spring (1) goes next with the big end toward the inside of the hub and sits on (6).
(Edit. - I may be wrong here. the spring may go the other way. The should be a groove in (3) that the spring sits into, so whichever end of the spring sits the groove is the way the spring goes.)
Now, this is where I not familiar with the later hubs. Never seen one in person.
I think (3) goes next then (5). Do the "dogs" have the chamfer on both sides of the teeth? If not you want the chamfers of the drive gears towards each other. (5) should be held on the stub shaft by a snap ring.
(2) goes on next followed by (4). (4) is also held in place by a snap ring.
Install dial in (7) and screw 7 onto (4).
those 4 60 not 44
and pic of assembly order http://coloradok5.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2855444&postcount=13
I am now worrying if mine are for a 44 or 60 ?????
The hub assembly pictured in post #1 is for a 1/2 ton D44 or any 10 bolt.
