Yet another lift question.

[Scrubby]

I'm about ready to order a 4" lift for my '72 blazer. I would like to go with TC springs all the way around. From what I have read on here, it sounds like I should go with 4" springs in the front and 6" springs in the back to fix the saggy rear problem. I was also considering getting 4" springs all the way around and then getting a 1" zero rate for the back. Anyone done either of these options? How did it work out for you? Pics? I would like to end up with a level to slight stink bug stance.

 

[stretch67]

hi i have used tuff country lifts on a few rigs. i have a 67 longbed on a 71 frame. 1st gen trucks or k5's use the same rear spring length as the 73-87 trucks but with 2" more spring lift. 52" rear springs i am not sure on the 56" ones since 1st gen did not have that option. the spring hangers on 2nd gen are 2" taller than 1st so to get 4" lift 1st gen use 6" rear lift springs for 2nd gen, and 4" springs for the front since 1st gen front springs are different than 2nd. i hope i have not totally confused you up to this point. what i am getting at is if you go 6" rear on your blazer you would actually have 8" rear lift springs. they may be as stiff as hell! you might cinsider a shackle flip for rear with a smaller lift spring in rear like a 2" or use the zero rate if you want a little extra in the rear but still want flex! /forums/images/graemlins/hack.gif

 

[k5kev]

I've got 4" TC fronts and 6" rears on my 72 Blazer, as recommended by TC. I ended up also adding a 1-1/2" block in the rear to level it out. I'm extremely happy with the lift. The 6" rears are not too stiff and are softer than the fronts.

I would go with the 4"/6" set up, bolt them up and see what you may need to add to the rear(I almost guarantee you'll need to add to be level). It also depends if you're running a hard or soft top and a stock fuel tank or a 37-40 gal. tank. I've got soft top and 37 gal. tank.

Good Luck /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

 

[Scrubby]

Thanks k5kev! That is kinda what I wanted to hear. Where did you order your kit from that allowed you to get 2 different sizes of springs?

 

[k5kev]

When I got mine a few years back you could buy direct from Tuff Country, but now you can buy them from Suspension connection, which I think is a retail front for TC.

Now I would buy them from Off Road Design. They will match Susp. Conn. price. I would get just the 4" and 6" springs, and then also get ORD's front and rear greasable bolts and bushings and their Heavy Duty front shackles. Do it all now to save time and money later on. After you bolt up everythingand get the height you want measure and order your shocks.

I've ordered a lot of stuff from ORD and they're great to work with.

Later /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[1972jimmy]

I put a Rough Country 4" kit on my 72 Jimmy earlier this year. The standard kit had a slight "bug-like stance". But after a couple of months, of zero abuse, the pinion angle shims disintegrated. Once RC sent the right ones I had to remove the tow helper leaf to install them and the rear is now just slightly above level. I highly recommend that you reweld the spring mounts to the right angle and trash the shims no matter which kit you buy. Also the longest part of the job, believe it or not, was to get the spring bolts out of the old springs. The bolts were practically welded to the bolt sleeves.

1972Jimmy

72 GMC Jimmy 350/465/205 44/12bolt 4" lift w/ 33s. Looking for a used front D44 w/ 4.09s and detroit type locker.

 

[Triaged]

No one has said it yet but I think 4" front springs and a 4" ORD shackle flip is a good way to go. I got my 4" TC EZ-rides from ORD and also have the 4" shackle flip. My truck sits about an inch low in the back with the sagged out factory springs. 1" 0-rates would be a good option for the rear anyways because you need to move the axle back to keep it from rubbing because GM put the rear axle to far forward (and the tire will rub the front of the wheel arch even with 4" lift and bald 33's if you don't move the axle back).