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York system, (update post #122)

I bought a Cambell Hausfield pressure switch. Ace Hardware. There are two common types of this brand, one for 120 psi, one for 200+. The York can make 200 psi, if you control at high pressure and store air at high pressure, then regulate the stored air down to usable pressure, you get more cfm off the rip.
 
If i were you i would drop the pressure down to the normal operating range of almost every compressor you see which is a shut off of 125 PSI. Most tanks aren't rated for much more than that as far as PSI goes. I know there is plenty of safety measure built into the number but better safe than sorry. If you have a legitemate air tank it should say right on the tank what the thing is pressure rated for.
 
Tank is rated for 175 psi. Not incredibly worried about the rest of the system its the pump I had no rating information on. Wasn't sure if that was pushing the pump too far or not.

I do think its a tad excessive however, my shop compressor runs to 175 psi before it shuts down. It's definitely a bigger more brutish system though.
 
You could move out of MS if you want to. They make fences in other states you know......:haha:


I did get the engine done yesterday. Just need to finish bleeding the power steering a little better. Then I need to design some sort of brace or strut for the York. The top of it is unsupported, and it shakes around a little when it is pumping air.
 
I have never had a top brace/support on mine, but then again, I'm using my design of bracket.
 
I have some pics of the set up. I just need to get them from the camera to the computer.

I think that if I don;t brace it the metal will fatigue over time. It vibrates quite a bit.
 
Shouldn't vibrate at all with a brace. But I wouldn't brace it from the top of the york. The housing is aluminum. Brace the mount with a side brace back to one of the exhaust bolts.
 
Here are the pics.
I want to add a gusset to the bottom of the bracket, and I was thinking about a strut type thing going from the top of the York to one of the intake bolts. Is that a bad idea?
I know I have seen something similar before, just not sure where.

york_00.JPG

york_01.JPG

york_02.JPG

york_03.JPG
 
attachment.php


I'd run a brace of sorts from both forward york mount bolts to a water pump bolt or another bolt in that area. That will stiffen up the mount and get rid of your vibration.

Also, that looks like it is a PITA to check and fill your power steering.
 
There is enough clearance between the bottom of the bracket and the top of the pump res. but I am going to get the boot thing from Chrysler to adapt the remote res.
They want $17 for it so I may put it off for a while though.

I'll see what I can come up with for a brace and post pics.
 
I found a cheap Square D pressure switch at the hardware store near my house.
Problem is that it is set at 80 - 100 PSI. Would it really make that much of a difference vise using a switch set to 150 cut off?
 
readymix said:
I found a cheap Square D pressure switch at the hardware store near my house.
Problem is that it is set at 80 - 100 PSI. Would it really make that much of a difference vise using a switch set to 150 cut off?
Click to expand...

Well, it means that the max pressure you'll ever build is then 100 psi.

That's fine for airing tires up ... bit slower, but doable .. but is bare minimum for running air tools. Also means you'll run the compressor more often, in spurts.

If you had a 120-130-140ish switch, your compressor would run to charge the tank up, then shut off, and wait longer until the tank was down again to turn on. (Assuming you run a regulator at 90-100psi for your airtools, anyway.)

Make sense? Given you're only gonna save, say, ten bucks, it's not worth it in the long haul, IMHO.

-- A
 
cant you just wire up a reg switch from a lil pancake compressor? i know there setup for 110 but i though i read somewhere in here that some one did this
 
slyguy_22 said:
cant you just wire up a reg switch from a lil pancake compressor? i know there setup for 110 but i though i read somewhere in here that some one did this
Click to expand...

The switches, in general, don't care what they're switching, i.e. 12VDC or 110AC or whatever.

Readymix is apparently limited on what he can buy local, is all. I had the same issue and ended up just ordering from Kilby to get it over with.

-- A
 
Good point about the compressor cycling more.
There would be tons more air in a tank at 150psi vise 100psi. Had not really thought of that. Plus I do run my air tools around 125psi.
 
Muddytazz said:
Part - Dealer - Part number

Square D pressure switch………………Grainger…………………5b419
Intake filter muffler………………………..Grainger…………………1A328
On-way valve………………………….Grainger………………….5a705
Click to expand...

I picked those parts up yesterday. One question about the check valve though. Here is a link to the part on Graingers site.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/ww...mnum&QueryString=5a705&submit.x=28&submit.y=5

I don;t think that this one will work. It is a combination check valve and unloader. With the york cycling at idle barely any air get past the unloader. Is it because the recommended flow rate for this valve is 8 - 24 CFM?

If I rev the engine I can get the system to build pressure but still not up to 150
 
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