DavidB
1/2 ton status
Going to diagnose this for a friend. Never tinkered on one before.
Any common failure points I should look at?
Any common failure points I should look at?
CK5
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Z71 4x4 no worky
- Thread starter DavidB
- Start date
Jason4x4
1/2 ton status
actuator in front axle housing.
Slapperbar
Retired Navy NDT Examiner
Same on the 'case.
readymix
3/4 ton status
Mine was the front axle actuator. There were two different versions.
The older ones were vacuum actuated.
The newer were electronic.
The older ones were vacuum actuated.
The newer were electronic.
Disciples Performance
1/2 ton status
t-case actuator sounds like to me is the 4wd light blinking at all or anything???
DavidB
1/2 ton status
Looked at it a bit. Light doesn't come on. Driveshaft turns in 4 when you drive it. No vacuum hoses - 1994. Maybe just a fuse I'm hoping. Jacked up front and spun the tires, shaft doesn't turn. Thinking actuator.
Nice to hear from ya readymix. How's it goin'?
Nice to hear from ya readymix. How's it goin'?
Jason4x4
1/2 ton status
there is a company that makes a kit to get rid of the actuator and puts a cable in its place that you use inside the cab, They work very well, and more reliable then the actuator.
readymix
3/4 ton status
Here is the company that makes the replacement lock thingy....
http://www.4x4posi-lok.com/
I don't know off hand if the 1994 had vacuum or electrical. My 98 was electric and it sucked in the winter while I was in Illinois.
You will find the actuator on the pass side of the diff. It is not very big and may be hiding behind the skid plate. I think I remember it being smaller that a soda can.
I am doing pretty good, but getting bored of being in MS. They have delayed the ship a few times so I won't be back in SoCal until the spring of 2009.
The only wheeling I have found down here is mud, so I have not done any of that. Did drive down a few unmaintained roads though.
http://www.4x4posi-lok.com/
I don't know off hand if the 1994 had vacuum or electrical. My 98 was electric and it sucked in the winter while I was in Illinois.
You will find the actuator on the pass side of the diff. It is not very big and may be hiding behind the skid plate. I think I remember it being smaller that a soda can.
I am doing pretty good, but getting bored of being in MS. They have delayed the ship a few times so I won't be back in SoCal until the spring of 2009.
The only wheeling I have found down here is mud, so I have not done any of that. Did drive down a few unmaintained roads though.
DavidB
1/2 ton status
the actuator is easy to get at. I'll pop it off and scheck it out. housing with 5 or 6 bolts there too, should be easy to pop it open if necessary.
My brother set up his locker on his tacoma to use a PTO cable. Cake if you know what you're doing.
My brother set up his locker on his tacoma to use a PTO cable. Cake if you know what you're doing.
DavidB
1/2 ton status
He said he tried to climb something in 2wd, didn't make it, put it 4, and it popped when he hit the gas. I bet it wasn't fully engaged and tore some stuff up. I did that to my Dodge once.
readymix
3/4 ton status
The front diffs in the newer Chevy's are real easy to rebuild at least.
Clamshell design is a little weird to deal with at first, but simple to work with.
Clamshell design is a little weird to deal with at first, but simple to work with.
DavidB
1/2 ton status
I'm hoping it just tore up the actuator or something in the shifting mech. is it all together in the diff?
readymix
3/4 ton status
Pretty much.
It has been about 4 years since I rebuilt one from a Chevy. I did a few Toyotas more recently and they are off to the side of the diff a little bit....in a somewhat separate area. You can replace all that stuff without opening up the main clamshell.
I think I remember the Chevy's being the same.
It will be pretty obvious when you look at it.
It has been about 4 years since I rebuilt one from a Chevy. I did a few Toyotas more recently and they are off to the side of the diff a little bit....in a somewhat separate area. You can replace all that stuff without opening up the main clamshell.
I think I remember the Chevy's being the same.
It will be pretty obvious when you look at it.
original balzer
1/2 ton status
Ok here we go, the actuators are either gas or worm drive.
Gas versions are self contained and are somewhat like a glow plug sealed into a gas chamber, glow plug heats up gas expands pushes plunger to shift the collar over. 2 wires running to them.
Worm drives are on a screw type shaft it turns and a nut of sorts pushes the collar over. Also 2 wires running to them. IIRC they was on 97+.
Neither one is very reliable in the cold. The gas ones cool off and relese. The worm drives seam to get too cold and perhaps the grease inside dont allow it to turn inside. I dont know exactly why the worm drives dont work well in the cold. They seam to not engauge at all, whereas the gas ones engauge then relese when they get cold. Once my 97 gets the clutch fixed Im going to purchase the posi-loc as mentioned.
Now for the snap sound, there is a wishbone lookin fork inside and a collar I have seen both break. Also some years used a fine spline on the slip shaft of the front driveline. With alot of miles they wear out then when power is applied they twist and "POP" Thats what my 97 was doing. It seamed to be in 4wd until you applied very much power then it would make a loud pop sound. I thought for sure something in the diff was fragged. Thats the other possibility is something broke in the front diff.
Gas versions are self contained and are somewhat like a glow plug sealed into a gas chamber, glow plug heats up gas expands pushes plunger to shift the collar over. 2 wires running to them.
Worm drives are on a screw type shaft it turns and a nut of sorts pushes the collar over. Also 2 wires running to them. IIRC they was on 97+.
Neither one is very reliable in the cold. The gas ones cool off and relese. The worm drives seam to get too cold and perhaps the grease inside dont allow it to turn inside. I dont know exactly why the worm drives dont work well in the cold. They seam to not engauge at all, whereas the gas ones engauge then relese when they get cold. Once my 97 gets the clutch fixed Im going to purchase the posi-loc as mentioned.
Now for the snap sound, there is a wishbone lookin fork inside and a collar I have seen both break. Also some years used a fine spline on the slip shaft of the front driveline. With alot of miles they wear out then when power is applied they twist and "POP" Thats what my 97 was doing. It seamed to be in 4wd until you applied very much power then it would make a loud pop sound. I thought for sure something in the diff was fragged. Thats the other possibility is something broke in the front diff.
