mrdrinksalil said:
Spend the $25 to be a member. It's well worth the pictures you can see and gain the knowledge with pics.
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
Zero rate pic...
- Thread starter Confedneck79K30
- Start date
Spend the $25 to be a member. It's well worth the pictures you can see and gain the knowledge with pics.
Confedneck79K30
3/4 ton status
and you can chill in the lounge with the cool cats like fumes and the okiepokie
Might as well revive an old thread instead of starting a new one...do you have to drill a new hole in teh cap for the front spings if you move the axle forward? Also, do you need new bolts to go into the D60 that 1 inch longer?
josh86k10
1/2 ton status
Yes, you do need to drill a hole in the u-bolt plate if you move the axle forward to give the nut a place to sit. You will also need longer bolts and possibly longer u-bolts. Here's a few pics of mine moved forward 1.5" (it doesn't really look like it judging by the threads but the bolts are threaded down into the housing a pretty good ways):
Hi-Jack - Is it necessary to shim the axle if your using zero rates to move the axles? Or is it more of a try it and see. I've got 2 sets coming and was fixing to move my front axle up 1.5 inches and the rear back 1.5 inches.
RGV72BLAZER
1/2 ton status
- Joined
- Jan 23, 2006
- Posts
- 2,444
- Reaction score
- 68
why not save yourself the headache and run some DIY4X spring plates. 
& if someone needs 'em here's a pic of my 52s with a ORD zero rate with the center pin moved 1 1/2" forward.
& if someone needs 'em here's a pic of my 52s with a ORD zero rate with the center pin moved 1 1/2" forward.
Zero rates on TC EZ ride 4" lift springs. I have zero-rates on the back moving my axle back - no pics of the install.
Here are some pics from front install:
Here are some pics from front install:
Not that it matters now but for future reference your U-bolts should go past the ends of you nuts the size of the nut, 5/8 should stick out 5/8 etc. It some old school safety thing. Its also a reason to fail safety inspection in NJ.
That is the front install with the axle in the original position, correct?
RGV72BLAZER, I thougth about buying new plates, but then thought, why spend the money when all I have to do is drill a hole?
RGV72BLAZER, I thougth about buying new plates, but then thought, why spend the money when all I have to do is drill a hole?
The nuts on these U-bolts were about twice the height of normal nuts. If these were standard height nuts they would be around that. Do they take that into consideration or does that not matter?kgblazerfive said:
noahrob - Yep - front install. I ordered new plates (not here yet) for the back end. I have it bolted together with the factory plates. It's not safe to drive, but it has the axle under it and it looks ok when the HOA nazi drives by to check things - HOA rules about non running vehicles and all. As long as they don't look too close I'm fine. Front seats are in the garage and the rear seat is folded to block the view of the missing seats.
The factor plate has a V across it for the stock bolt. I couldn't really drill it out too easily. I finally ordered a set of new plates today from WFO and am waiting for new rear U-bolts from Currie.
As far as I remember it doesn't matter to them.
RGV72BLAZER
1/2 ton status
- Joined
- Jan 23, 2006
- Posts
- 2,444
- Reaction score
- 68
noahrob said:
true, but when you've drilled as many holes as me, then you can see the benefit of the spring plates...plus they're a lot more beefy than the stockers.
No worries, drilling out the spring plates was annoying, but no biggie (but I am with you that those pads are in my future...just not today). Here are some pics and just for the record, teh U-bolt on the passenger side is just temp adn I will not actually ever drive the truck like that.
The truck pics are before and after zero rates...
The truck pics are before and after zero rates...
