I’ll try again just in case it works for others.
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CK5
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‘75 Fullvert Blazer- K5 Cody’s build- 8.1 swap***C10’s in the park*** Back to assembly.
- Thread starter GWeakland620
- Start date
Restomod build for a late friend
If it’s not pushing oil past the rings it’s probably sucking it past the valve guides. Pretty simple fix to replace the cheesy O-ring valve stem seals for the later style umbrella stem seals. Shoot for Tbi era for stock gm or fel pro umbrella seals. They don’t require any machine work to the valve guide boss like aftermarket valve stem seals do.
I put them on the 307 in my Nova and it stopped a lot of the oil burning that engine had.
I put them on the 307 in my Nova and it stopped a lot of the oil burning that engine had.
I’ve never done valve guides before. Does that require pulling the heads?
For just replacing the seals you don't But you will need to remove the rockers and valve springs. You end up doing one cylinder at a time, making sure the piston is at TDC for the cylinder you are working on. Adding air from a leakdown tester in the spark plug hole will hold the valves up. But having the piston at TDC will you from dropping a valve in the hole. Once the spring is off, swapping the seal is pretty simple.
It made it to and from work yesterday. Burnt a quart in about 15 miles. Not worth me messing with it anymore. Especially since I have a better engine basically ready to drop in.
Haven’t done anything on this in over a year. The plan has changed for the motor transplant. Ended up selling the vortec for $900, and I will be pulling this motor for a rebuild. Not going crazy with it, but most likely .030 over, cam, lifters, roller rockers, and some sort of aftermarket efi. I want good reliable HP’s but decent cruising manors. It gets started every once in a while to get moved around. It sounds great, but smokes like crazy every time.
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The shop build has officially started, so this will be getting torn into within the next few months to see if it just needs rings, or if the block is good anymore. While the motor is out, I will be pulling the seats and starting on the floor patches. Interior will get painted, then start going together with new or nice pieces. By spring I’d like to have this done minus the exterior paint and/or rust. Wouldn’t mind leaving it with just a tad of the original patina, but the front clip paint is just a tad off a shade from original color.
View attachment IMG_6610.mov
The shop build has officially started, so this will be getting torn into within the next few months to see if it just needs rings, or if the block is good anymore. While the motor is out, I will be pulling the seats and starting on the floor patches. Interior will get painted, then start going together with new or nice pieces. By spring I’d like to have this done minus the exterior paint and/or rust. Wouldn’t mind leaving it with just a tad of the original patina, but the front clip paint is just a tad off a shade from original color.
thread?
No lol
But here’s a picture.
Temporary pad out back to store out of the way. Cutting an old terrace for the back portion of the shop footprint.
Going with a 40’ wide 60’ deep with 16’ walls. 14x12 front and rear pull through door then 10x10 door for the lift.
Would you want a bigger door where the lift is in case you want to lift something off the trailer?
I’m thinking if need be, I can still sneak it in the bigger door, then do some finagling to get it over to that side. Even if it means putting the trailer on some dolly’s.
The wheel and tire combo has always been temporary as the rears were brake drum wheels and the offset is wrong for this truck. I’m a sidewall guy, and like the tire to look a certain way on the wheels. The rear setup is 33x12.50 on 6.5” wheels. The fronts are my 2 spare military wheels I had sitting around. They look much better in my opinion, so that’s the end goal for this truck.
And in case anyone is still wondering, uh yeah it still smokes…
My wife sent that picture and told me I was actively getting lung cancer
And in case anyone is still wondering, uh yeah it still smokes…
My wife sent that picture and told me I was actively getting lung cancer
Snagged a good deal yesterday! $200 tbi 454 with a “tick”. Plans are to go through it and see what it needs. Definitely thinking about dropping it in the Willoway Smoker.
And it came with the engine cart!!!
And it came with the engine cart!!!
Nice score!
Nice, big blocks rule!
Unloaded the engine out of the bed of Penny yesterday, and decided to pull the valve covers. Everything looks nice and clean from here. Going to mount it on the engine stand and pull oil pan to inspect the lower end and pull some main caps.
Cold temps and snow have made shop plans halt since January. Well, I suck at waiting.
Brought the smoker up to the driveway today so I can tear into the motor and start patching floor pans.
Started with pulling plugs so I can read them. Odd side of the block had all 4 plugs soaked in oil and carbon fouled.
However, the even cylinders were all dry and fine. I’ve never seen this before and thought it was odd. For those of you who have done more engine work than me, what does this possibly mean? Are the rings not necessarily bad? Valve seals?
Brought the smoker up to the driveway today so I can tear into the motor and start patching floor pans.
Started with pulling plugs so I can read them. Odd side of the block had all 4 plugs soaked in oil and carbon fouled.
However, the even cylinders were all dry and fine. I’ve never seen this before and thought it was odd. For those of you who have done more engine work than me, what does this possibly mean? Are the rings not necessarily bad? Valve seals?
Bad intake gasket on that side?
You can do a leakdown test and find out, or even if you don't have the tool, just pressurize each cylinder with the valves closed and listen where the air is leaking, breather, intake, or exhaust? (rings or valves)
If that test turns out good, then it's likely the valve seals or intake gaskets or something as the valves are supposed to be closed during that test.
If that test turns out good, then it's likely the valve seals or intake gaskets or something as the valves are supposed to be closed during that test.
I would think head issue on odd side, it’s strange that you’d have bad rings only on one side….id focus on the head on the odd side, valves, seals, etc.
Oddly enough (see what I did there) both the 350s I’ve had with bad cam lobes always destroyed an odd can lobe and not an even one
Oddly enough (see what I did there) both the 350s I’ve had with bad cam lobes always destroyed an odd can lobe and not an even one
While I agree that odd side only points toward a head or gasket issue, its unlikely a cam lobe or two would effect the whole bank. I think guide seals are a good guess.
