CK5
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‘82 GMC “Junkyard JIMMY” {Build bash Rebuild}

Those rubber mounts never really held up really well, maybe a little too tight but I would go poly if you don't mind a little more vibration. But keep in mind stiffer mount translates to harder on the drivetrain as well as so a little food for thought.
 
wish I had a before and after "feel" opinion for you, but it's still at the shop. Was too happy to notice a difference when I pulled it out from it's grassy hibernation just to move 25ft. :)

Damn I wanna go wheelin with some folks!
 
I'll go wheelin with you when you're ready.

As always thanks for the input. :waytogo:
 
So are you supposed to keep them a little bit loose then? I've always thought that you had to keep rubber bushings tight or they would fail, but that you need to keep poly bushings kind of loose a little bit or they won't work right. When I took my transfer case off the other day, I noticed that the mounts had loosened themselves up over the last year and a half since the last time I had it out. It had the original rubber mounts. I just put it back in (with a different crossmember) and now I'm wondering how tight I should keep the mounts. Thanks for making me worry about that now. :haha:
 
The rubber tranny mounts have only been on there for a month or 2 and for 1/2 a trail run.

I HAD to have over tightened it. :doah:
 
Sounds like it. Do you still have the TH400 trans from when it had a diesel? That's what I just put in. I used the crossmember from the diesel Blazer that I got mine out of. There were two mounts that had two rubber pieces each. They're attached with two long bolts. The rubber pieces on the bottom have square steel wahsers (I guess that's what they are) that should prevent overtightening to the point of messing up the rubber pieces. My old crossmember was for the TH700R4 that I took out and it just had one big rubber piece instead of two. That's the one that I said wasn't very tight when I took it out. I wonder how tight these things need to be? I would consult a shop manual but I don't have one.
 
Now that you mention it. I don't know if I have the TH 700 or the 700R4.

I thought they were the same. Is one better than the other?


I think it's the same tranny that was with the diesel. It's 4 speed w/ OD.

The mounts are exactly as you described.
 
There is no TH700. There is a TH700R4, which was later called a 4L60. TH700 is just a shortened version.

Martin
 
Transfer case noises at highway speed.

Big bear broke axle 009.jpg


Here's the perpetrator. I replaced this mount along with my cab mounts not too long ago.

All the driveline noises went away for a while but a TC groan at highway deceleration slowly stared to come back.

Also, the tranny is shifting hard from 1-2. If I stomp on it the tires will chirp when it shifts.

Big bear broke axle 009.jpg
 
Pblaze, mine does the same thing from 1-2, i think its the TV plunger getting stuck at times, and also the slack in the detroit locker adds to the problem. When you put it in gear does the driveline seem to "bang" into gear. almost as if there is a lot of slack in the driveline from the locker?
 
Something weird... I ordered OEM replacement parts...
- (HOLY CRAP A BIRD JUST FLEW INTO MY HOUSE & PAST MY HEAD WHILE I WAS TYPING THIS!)- <<<bad omen

... and the rear engine mount (tranny mount)has a sticker on it that says "made in India" when I turn the part over I see the paint peeling off and under the paint it says "USA".

WTH?



I think I found the problem. :doah::mad: I'm going poly.

Pblaze, mine does the same thing from 1-2, i think its the TV plunger getting stuck at times, and also the slack in the detroit locker adds to the problem. When you put it in gear does the driveline seem to "bang" into gear. almost as if there is a lot of slack in the driveline from the locker?


It bangs into gear if I am in 4wd. Not so much in 2wd. from R to D is pretty smooth, I can even coast a little bit.

But when I floor it it goes :k5: ......VVVVRROOMMM, CHIRP!, VROOOMMMM, CHIRP!, WHUBBA BUBBBBAAA>>>>:woot::haha:
 
Tranny mount 001.jpg
I hammered the bushing back to flat, and cut a piece of 1o gauge (1/8") plate and drilled some holes in it.




Tranny mount 002.jpg
Then I threw on some rust proof red and added lock washers.

As I was tightening it down I heard something move and set into place.


The bridge plate should spread the torque load and make the bushing last longer.








...and on a side note I picked up some Klein bags to organize my trail tools. wrenches, sockets, screwdrivers, RTV.

Tranny mount 003.jpg

Tranny mount 001.jpg

Tranny mount 002.jpg

Tranny mount 003.jpg
 
Drove about 20 miles on the highway this morning.

That Gnarly noise is gone again. :D:woot:
 
Looks like you have the flat crossmember that came on the Blazer when it had a diesel and a TH400. The TH700R4 crossmember was a lot more wavy than that. In fact, I don't see how you could use the flat crossmember with your trans to transfer case adapter and get a very good driveshaft angle without some kind of modifications being done. Looks like you got it fixed though.

The symptons being displayed by your transmission sound terminal. That's exactly how mine started acting about 2 weeks before it went out. On it's last day in operation, it's last official act was to bang hard into drive and then start to make some TERRIBLE ticking and grinding sounds when it went into second. I just turned around and drove back home in first and parked it.

When it does go, don't let anyone tell you how great the 700 is and that you should rebuild it or anything like that. They are no good for off road driving unless you throw a lot of money at them. They were designed to help fuel economy in stock trucks. They used them in the S-10 for goodness' sake. And yes, if that throttle valve gets stuck, your trans will burn up. Just go ahead and get you a TH400 if you want another auto. You already have the right crossmember. :D
 
I hope not

I modified the cross member shortly after I put on the lifted springs.

I hope it's not dying, I can't afford a tranny rebuild or new tranny right meow.
 

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