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‘82 GMC “Junkyard JIMMY” {Build bash Rebuild}

Overview Gallery Discussion
Dude I would have made you a deal on those same shackles. Oh well.

I've found an air hammer with a good chisel bit is the best thing to remove rivets with. It takes forever to grind the heads off and knock the shafts out with a punch.
 
Thanks AB. It turns out you were correct. The DIY shackle flip should lift the rear end 4.5" to 5". That combined with my current springs will net a total of 7" to 7.5". That's way more than I am looking for so I will need to remove that extra spring I added a while back. That should bring it back down a little bit.
I may need to pick up some stock springs or I could get some custom ones made at a local shop. We'll see.

Dana 44 Front Steering set up

I could use some advise on the front steering set up.

I'm using Sky Manufacturing high steer, and homebrew hydro assist.

1- The tie rod from lock to lock travels only 6" so why do we use an 8" ram?
Should I just set the steering center and the ram center and tack it in place?
It seemed to work fine on the 10 bolt, I just want to do it right this time.

2- setting toe-in. Is there a way to properly set the toe-in before the tires are mounted?
I took a page out of Greg's book and laid out the axle center line and steering angles on the floor so I could take measurements.
Now I'm even more confused.

Maybe I'm over thinking this...:dunno:
 
I don't know too much about the steering you're setting up, but I would think that you would want the steering to hit the stops well before the ram bottoms out or whatever, thus the longer stroke. I think you would be wasting your time to try to set the toe without the tires mounted.

Like I said, I don't know about the DIY kit, but check to see if you can flip the brackets around and use 54" rear springs off a Suburban. I think if you can find a set of those in the junkyard and maybe take out a leaf or two and put in new bushings and stuff, you'll have an awesome setup.
 
Yeah like I said I'm not sure about the one you're using but on the ORD one, the piece that the shackle mounts to is offset by 2". Swapping the brackets to the opposite side will allow 54" springs to be mounted without moving the front hangers. The bolt holes are in the same place, just the actual mounts are offset. You'll see what I mean when you get yours, if they work the same.
 
Got it. :thumb:

I can't tell by the DIY4X images if the hanger is centered or offset.
I can just slide the entire hanger back and drill new mounting holes if need be so that's not such a big deal.

Oh well, I'll figure it out. Thanks.
 
The DIY brackets are offset you can flip them to run the longer springs. I put mine in the wrong way first.
 
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Here's one pic that covers multiple threads.

I used my laser to set my axle at dead nuts center for my Tie rod and ram.
I ordered another LH Tie rod end from WFO for my drag link set up. Yea I should have ordered 2 from the start but I went thru that whole LH or RH thing...
Either way would work, who am I kidding I'm not taking this to an alignment shop, as long as it drives straight and the steering wheel is centered I'm good to go.

The rear is ready, it just needs fluid.
I got the DIY4X shackle flip on the way.
Honestly I don't think I need it. The old one ain't broke yet, why fix it?
Now I have rear spring work to do, and still the upper inboard shock mounts.
I have a few ideas. You'll see soon.

I got my hat on the fab table, a ne'er behind it, my dog supervising, and a random photo for the other random threads.

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The end of an era

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So this is it, the time has come. The end of an era.

The JIMMY has reached back yard status. As I reverse into the backyard I think back to all of the good times I've had with this lil 1/2 ton rock crawler. :D:doah::D:doah::D

I know the next time I drive out of the Yard it will be something different. :popcorn:

Weird for me...

image.jpg
 
KERKER will guard it and keep it safe for you. Just don't leave the keys in it. He may try to take it for a spin.
 
Weekend Swap

I worked all weekend alone swapping my axles. They are mounted and I like the ride height.
It still needs rear drive shaft and shock mounts.

The front is in, it needs the steering drag link and I need to add shims for the pinion angle.












image.jpg

image.jpg
 
Paul, I hope you don't mind me boogering up your thread with this. But how did you bend your Z-link bar? And do you think it was worth it doing it the way you did?
 
Deuling said:
Its like a jeep where the drag link runs to the hole in the pass tie rod end, instead of to the knuckle.





Paul. Looks great man. Keep at it. :woot:
Click to expand...
Yes, except the Jeep set up is wrong and dangerous.

swettysblazer said:
Paul, I hope you don't mind me boogering up your thread with this. But how did you bend your Z-link bar? And do you think it was worth it doing it the way you did?
Click to expand...

Comments are welcome in here Swetty, I was about to start a new thread because I wasn't getting much feedback from anyone.


I bent the tie rod on a JDsq tube bender. (In the last pic with the bucket over it.)It was a cheap and easy. It worked great and didn't break.
 
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