Are you going to get a shorter adapter between your transmission and transfer case?
Martin
Martin
CK5
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‘82 GMC “Junkyard JIMMY” {Build bash Rebuild}
- Thread starter pblaze725
- Start date
For the ones interested in the alternatives. (though I do like raising the shifter, probably puts it in better position) But bending the bar, OMG that sounds like a bitch lol I used a piece of 1/4" plate and moved the holes. Everything else remains the same. However, I have a 1" BL, not sure if Paul? Pblaze does.
And Paul, hahaha, you can see my new seat support in the bottom picture. Two pieces of steel sandwiching the body. Seems to work, it's held a 440# passenger while wheeling just fine. Though it's only temporary until I finish the cage.
And Paul, hahaha, you can see my new seat support in the bottom picture. Two pieces of steel sandwiching the body. Seems to work, it's held a 440# passenger while wheeling just fine. Though it's only temporary until I finish the cage.
No sir, my adapter stays where it was. Do you foresee a problem with it?
Thanks for the pics K85. I'm thinking the same thing the seat mount is temporary until I build a roll cage. When I build the cage I'm getting new seats.
It just seems really low after going through the work to clock up your transfer case.
Martin
Martin
Yeah, if you find a short adapter you can make a new crossmember and truly have a flat belly.
Too late, the Tcase is installed and I'm not taking it off.
It's WAY better than it was. What seems low? ...The crossmember?
I have a plan for that...
andyblack
Registered Loser
For the ones interested in the alternatives. (though I do like raising the shifter, probably puts it in better position) But bending the bar, OMG that sounds like a bitch lol I used a piece of 1/4" plate and moved the holes. Everything else remains the same. However, I have a 1" BL, not sure if Paul? Pblaze does.
And Paul, hahaha, you can see my new seat support in the bottom picture. Two pieces of steel sandwiching the body. Seems to work, it's held a 440# passenger while wheeling just fine. Though it's only temporary until I finish the cage.
How did a 440 lb. person get up into your Blazer? Wow.
Today I modified my front driveshaft.
I started out by chopping it in the center.
I had a piece of tube laying around that fit perfectly inside for a slug. I made the slug the entire length of the shaft.
I determined that the stock shaft has 3" of travel.
I figure I would set it at 1 1/2" right in the middle. This gives me 1 1/2" inch of compression and since my cap don't really stop at the splines I have 4 1-2" of down travel before it falls out.
With the slip yoke set at 1 1/2" I determined I needed to make my shaft 2 3/4" longer.
I then cranked up Grandpa's old drill press and drilled 6 holes for rosette welds.
I set it down in a piece of angle and burned it in.
My welds were embarrassingly ugly I forgot to snap a pic...
Next I cleaned up the ugly welds and shaved off the U joint stops.
It spins and doesn't bind at all.
I hope it works. I called Tom Woods and they said they'll make me a new shaft for about a grand.
That's not gonna happen.
I started out by chopping it in the center.
I had a piece of tube laying around that fit perfectly inside for a slug. I made the slug the entire length of the shaft.
I determined that the stock shaft has 3" of travel.
I figure I would set it at 1 1/2" right in the middle. This gives me 1 1/2" inch of compression and since my cap don't really stop at the splines I have 4 1-2" of down travel before it falls out.
With the slip yoke set at 1 1/2" I determined I needed to make my shaft 2 3/4" longer.
I then cranked up Grandpa's old drill press and drilled 6 holes for rosette welds.
I set it down in a piece of angle and burned it in.
My welds were embarrassingly ugly I forgot to snap a pic...
Next I cleaned up the ugly welds and shaved off the U joint stops.
It spins and doesn't bind at all.
I hope it works. I called Tom Woods and they said they'll make me a new shaft for about a grand.
That's not gonna happen.
andyblack
Registered Loser
Looks good man. As long as you don't go too fast, I don't think you'll get any real bad vibes. [emoji106]
I have a few things going on today.
First I installed the shifter and the riser box. I think it looks good with a coat of Herculiner on it. Once I get a little dirt on it it should match the rest of the interior.
I noticed when I took the cover off the shifter there was an indicator bar that shows you what gear the Tcase is in. Well the entire time I've had this the shaft was never installed properly through the indicator bar. This made it so when I put it back in 4Low the stoopid bar would keep the shifter from fully engaging in low gear. Sometimes when I'm out romping around it would pop out of gear.
I even took it to Scaamco and paid big bucks to have the case rebuilt assuming the shifter forks were worn out.
The problem continued.
Well now that I installed it properly there is nothing stopping the shifter from being fully engaged. Win for me.
Second I started to patch the hole in the floor. I'll be honest I'm kind of stumped. I've been trying to figure out how to make a cover that incorporates a flat spot for the front left seat mount and still cover he rest of the hole too.
I was thinking I would make it in one piece but now that I'm looking at it I may need to make several odd shaped pieces and weld them all back together.
If anyone has some good pics of how they patched the floor here'll ease post them up for me to reference.
Also I noticed my speedometer cable was seized. I called the good folks at Classic Chevy parts and a new one should be delivered today. I figure I better change it now beforeI patch the hole or it would be very difficult to remover after.
It's getting there. I feel better now that I can actually drive it if the zombie appacalyps happens today.
andyblack
Registered Loser
Hmmm.... I've had a couple of 208s that would pop out of 4wd randomly. I wonder if I had the same problem you did.
I hear the most common failure is the edge of the shifting forks get worn out.
Mine would stay in 4Hi but pop out of 4 Low.
...Also if you don't have the lever adjusted properly it can act the same way.
Mine would stay in 4Hi but pop out of 4 Low.
...Also if you don't have the lever adjusted properly it can act the same way.
andyblack
Registered Loser
I think I need to adjust mine then. It will pop out of 4hi occasionally and the engine will rev and everyone will think I've broken something major. Fools em every time.
The way I set mine is I disconnet the lever from the shifter arm and put them both in 2hi and set it there, then I disconnect it again and put them both in 4low and loosen the back nut until it fits, then set it about 1/2 between the 2 settings and shift it 1/2 a million times to make sure it's right.
The instructions in the Chiltons manual are different. Their way never worked right for me. It either sets it too high or too low.
It's kind of weird yours slips out of 4 hi because that's right in the middle. Mine has never popes out of 4 Hi.
The instructions in the Chiltons manual are different. Their way never worked right for me. It either sets it too high or too low.
It's kind of weird yours slips out of 4 hi because that's right in the middle. Mine has never popes out of 4 Hi.
andyblack
Registered Loser
Everything about me is weird. "Chitlins" books are never right. The one for my Ford truck had me trying to check voltages on the TPS when I wanted to look at the MAF. Their pictures are so misleading. [emoji488]
I was removing my speedometer cable today and realized that it goes into my cruise control box.
I knew I had cruise control but I didn't realize the cables go in & out of it.
The cable coming from the Tcase to the box was free but the one from the box to the speedo was seized up.
Furthermore when I tested the cable going into the box the gears in the box wouldn't spin.
Oh well. My new cable came in today and it looks like it's long enough to go straight from the Tcase to the dash.
Not much of an update but it is what it is.
I came up with a plan for my floor patch and seat mounts. I'll post that up tomorrow as the work continues.
I knew I had cruise control but I didn't realize the cables go in & out of it.
The cable coming from the Tcase to the box was free but the one from the box to the speedo was seized up.
Furthermore when I tested the cable going into the box the gears in the box wouldn't spin.
Oh well. My new cable came in today and it looks like it's long enough to go straight from the Tcase to the dash.
Not much of an update but it is what it is.
I came up with a plan for my floor patch and seat mounts. I'll post that up tomorrow as the work continues.
I got a new shirt today.
Mine slips out of 4hi, never has done it in low. Think it might be the body lift/linkage problem. Messed with the linkage once.....5-6 years ago. Been wheeling it since.
Might try your idear and see if that helps
Disclaimer: this is a don't do what I did thread. Like Sex Panther 60% of the time I'm wrong all the time.
This morning I got my new speedo cable installed. I didn't like how it was originally routed between the shifter and front shaft like this:
So I went a different, safer route like this:
After that I moved on to the big hole I. The floor and seat mounts.
I started out by utilizing the 2" Z metal I had laying around and tacked a few pieces in place:
Then I cut up another piece of angle I had laying around for the top:
I decided to cut (3) 2" slugs of tubing to raise the seat to match the box. We'll see how it works pretty soon...
This morning I got my new speedo cable installed. I didn't like how it was originally routed between the shifter and front shaft like this:
So I went a different, safer route like this:
After that I moved on to the big hole I. The floor and seat mounts.
I started out by utilizing the 2" Z metal I had laying around and tacked a few pieces in place:
Then I cut up another piece of angle I had laying around for the top:
I decided to cut (3) 2" slugs of tubing to raise the seat to match the box. We'll see how it works pretty soon...
I may not be the best welder around, heck I may even be the worst, but I can fill a hole and get full penetration on the box.
