This thread is for the general discussion of the Item ‘91 FWC K5. Please add to the discussion here.
CK5
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I commented on one of your posts on a K5 group on Fakebook. Glad to see you start a thread here.
Started tearing into it, every time I leave it out of the shop with a clear forecast it gets rained in. Tore the carpet out as it wouldn’t dry out underneath and figured nows a good time to check on the usual rust spots, hoped for better but not too far gone for sure. Has the typical cracks around the driver side seat mounts.
Any ways to prevent further cracking around the seat bolts? Any available patch panels for the vertical wall around the seat belt mounting locations?
Any ways to prevent further cracking around the seat bolts? Any available patch panels for the vertical wall around the seat belt mounting locations?
Swapped the auto hubs out for the milemarker premiums Ron sent with the truck, added some no.7 O-rings to the bolts that hold the cap on to keep water out. A perfect fit and may also act as a lock washer, we shall see in the future if the water kept out.
Added anti-seeze to the threads and grease to the o-ring prior to installation
Added anti-seeze to the threads and grease to the o-ring prior to installation
Dang, that stuff was hidden for sure. Bright side that it appears to all be hidden flat panels.
They are good at hiding the rust lol, its by far better than my other k5
Here’s a convoluted mess of update pictures, got the RLC bumpers finished up, noticed a cracked main leaf so decided to go ahead with the 4” lift, 52s in the front and 64s out back. Crossover steering and bilsteins. 35s on rally’s coming soon.
35” yokohama g003’s are on with the rallys
Alright fellas, needing some input on drivetrain. Long story short this thing has a tbi 350 with an aftermarket ecm and a 700r4. The laptop for the ecm died the second time I plugged it in, it has some tuning issues that are now even more frustrating to deal with after that. This thing wont get out of its own way with the current lack of power and gearing.
GM’s best auto ever, the 700r4 isn’t helping with its extreme performance in turning HP into disappointment and heat
I know fuel injection is the best but I truly find computers in most flavors extremely annoying. Suck it up and megasquirt? Learn to like it?
Im trying to figure out what motor/ trans combo to stuff in it. Ideally I would be able to pull my 7x12 trailer at speed reliably and without taping into the US oil reserves.
Currently has 35s and 3.73 gears. A 454 would probably be my cheapest solution for power? A 4l80 would be nice as this is my only automatic vehicle at this point, but that would definitely require more confusers to be involved.
An optimizer 6.5 would probably be the best for the long term? but rather pricey up front. Paired with a 4911 pump, bigger turbo and an sm465 id be able to achieve my current goal of getting rid of electrical and tuning headaches, and it would probably tow better too, likely also saving a regear as the 465 lacks OD, the 3.73s may balance that.
Any other input?
Yes LS motors are great, but I will further make the choices harder by saying im very anti ls in a square.
This is why suspension work gets done first, its the only department in which I know what I want
vote big block+sm465.
6.5L is my vote. With an nv4500 swap.
Big block. Though I’d go L29 7.4 or 8.1 L18, keeping fuel injection. Hear me out since it sounds like you don’t want to deal with efi. If you go stock in either situation, standalone harness and factory ecm with a light tune, it’s turnkey. I don’t mess with fiddling with fuel maps or timing tables. It works just like Gm intended. Hot or cold, high elevation or low. Parts are available at any local part store too.
It’s like an LS swap, but better because it’s a big block and not an LS.
It’s like an LS swap, but better because it’s a big block and not an LS.
That was my initial thought but I got to reading larrys writeup on the 8.1 and my understanding was id need x year 8.1, y application accessory drive setup, z manifolds etc, didn’t exactly sound like I could find a single complete engine setup that would be the best fit for a k5, am I misunderstanding that? Sounded like alot of piecing together the right 8.1, is that not exactly the case? Ideally a very mildly tuned stock 8.1 and 4l80e wasI was hoping for. Id love a diesel but that gets rather involved quickly, my 5 speed swap on my last k5 the pedal assembly swap was my least favorite part, took longer than swapping the trans itself lol
Yes and no. It really depends on what you want to do. Outside of the little changes around the cam sensor and timing cover it really just comes down to getting the right harness for the year of the 8.1. The accessory drive depends on if you want ac or not. The truck setup runs the ac compressor separate from the main belt and puts it low on the block like an LS engine. That won’t fit on a square. So if you don’t want to run ac it’s an easy find. Otherwise if you want to run ac you need to find the accessory brackets from a van or a workhorse rv. There is someone making them too.
I’d ditch the dbw throttle for a cable unit from a L29. Simplicity is better as far as that goes.
Well, threw a cap, rotor and wires on today, went to go change plugs, turns out I bought the wrong ones, turns out it dosent have tbi heads on it, they are aluminum
, only marking I could easily find was a W in the front corner by hole 1. It still runs like sheit, almost dies occasionally off the line, idles great still. Floored at high rpm it makes less power than my 2.3 ranger.
So Im giving up on the 350
Ive got my eyes on a 4bt with a gm adapter housing, thinking about an sm465.
Anyone know the 465s? Would a 32 spline hydraulic unit out of an 88-94 or whatever the range is be a good option? Shifters all in the same spots? Id like to keep the 241 for the lower low gear, don’t think I need 205 strength.
, only marking I could easily find was a W in the front corner by hole 1. It still runs like sheit, almost dies occasionally off the line, idles great still. Floored at high rpm it makes less power than my 2.3 ranger.So Im giving up on the 350
Ive got my eyes on a 4bt with a gm adapter housing, thinking about an sm465.
Anyone know the 465s? Would a 32 spline hydraulic unit out of an 88-94 or whatever the range is be a good option? Shifters all in the same spots? Id like to keep the 241 for the lower low gear, don’t think I need 205 strength.
Any idea what heads they are? Im not finding anything, not sure what its worth but the part number on the plug came back for a 96-98 I think corvette, that was the only 5.7 factory application rest were ls trucks
Maybe these.
The ZZ3 heads offer relatively small intake ports (165 cc) yet can flow sufficient cfm to feed a 350hp engine. The small ports yield excellent port velocity for better lowspeed torque. The heads are angle plug, have 1.94/1.50-inch LT1 valves and valve seats, 1.250-inch-diameter valvesprings, and screw-in studs. They have 58cc chambers, which will equate to approximately 10.25:1 compression on a flattop-equipped 350 using GM part No. 1408948 composite. 052-inch-thick head gaskets for aluminum heads (assuming the pistons are. 020-inch below the deck, which is typical).
Non OD tranny will suck here IMO if you plan on doing highway speeds.
Hopeing to fix that with the 3.73s and 35s
