“Dylan’s” 89. Back at it!

[454Sub]

This is just me, and I was raised around them since early childhood.

I stripped mine, rebuilt it, converted it to full manual and ran it and didn't even drag out the Transtar book. I had never touched a 80e before that. If you take it apart just ensure you have a large bench where you can lay the small and large parts out in the order you removed them. They really aren't rocket surgery, if something doesn't fit right or isn't sitting right something isn't right. IMO the hardest part is aligning the clutch teeth with the baskets and stuff. Count how many times it drops down to ensure you engaged every clutch disk.

 

[chris85]

I would be looking for a reputable trans guy to tear the trans down for inspection. You might find it's OK and just need to swap the output and maybe buy a new converter....

I'm fairly comfortable building an engine but auto transmissions are something I've always outsourced.

That is kind of part of the problem. Most guys I’ve talked to won’t just disassemble and inspect, or just do the shaft swap without doing a full rebuild. And finding a reputable shop around here is proving difficult. It’s a toss between doing the build myself and screwing it up vs a shop doing the build and screwing it up at 3 times the price.

 

[chris85]

Well I did just try another shop and they quoted $1300 with a 12 month/12000 mile warranty. That’s a little easier to swallow.

 

[chris85]

This sucks. I’m basically in a stand still until the motor is done and it’s driving me crazy. I’ve done a few little things but nothing really of note. Bored!

 

[chris85]

Nothing to report on the truck. I just wanted to wish everyone a Happy thanksgiving!

 

[chris85]

Black Friday boredom

 

[chris85]

I am entertaining the idea of doing the paint on the truck. ( I’ve had too much free time to think). So, just like everything else, I’ve never painted a vehicle before. I get that it’s all in the prep work. Just curious if anyone has any words of wisdom? Single stage vs. base/clear? I’m looking more for durability and protection than show and shine, but I also want more than just a rattle can job. What kind of time frame does it realistically take? From start of prep to end?

All in all I think I would end up saving a couple grand as well, which is always a good thing.

 

[nvrenuf]

I am entertaining the idea of doing the paint on the truck. ( I’ve had too much free time to think). So, just like everything else, I’ve never painted a vehicle before. I get that it’s all in the prep work. Just curious if anyone has any words of wisdom? Single stage vs. base/clear? I’m looking more for durability and protection than show and shine, but I also want more than just a rattle can job. What kind of time frame does it realistically take? From start of prep to end?

All in all I think I would end up saving a couple grand as well, which is always a good thing.

I'm in the same boat, I want more than a rattle can job but I'm NOT spending $1000+ on paint. I considered doing a roll on paint job with Rustoleum or the like but I can't find a color I like. I've been talking to a friend that paints his own stuff, he's going to help/teach me but I'm having to rein him in a lot with the epoxy sealers and multiple wet sanding steps type stuff. He's a nice show car guy so he's not grasping that I'm just wanting a durable 30 footer. LOL Anyway, he suggested this place for the paint, he's used them and was happy with the products.

http://shop.thecoatingstore.com/400-Series-2-Stage-Pearl-Series_c66.htm

Edit: iirc, they are in Perkinston, Ms. north of Gulfport.

 

[chris85]

I'm in the same boat, I want more than a rattle can job but I'm NOT spending $1000+ on paint. I considered doing a roll on paint job with Rustoleum or the like but I can't find a color I like. I've been talking to a friend that paints his own stuff, he's going to help/teach me but I'm having to rein him in a lot with the epoxy sealers and multiple wet sanding steps type stuff. He's a nice show car guy so he's not grasping that I'm just wanting a durable 30 footer. LOL Anyway, he suggested this place for the paint, he's used them and was happy with the products.

http://shop.thecoatingstore.com/400-Series-2-Stage-Pearl-Series_c66.htm

Edit: iirc, they are in Perkinston, Ms. north of Gulfport.

Awesome, thanks! I definitely need a good resource to know whats compatible and all that. I just want to take it back to its original white. Gonna do some reading on here and see what I come up with. At first I didn't even want to think about taking this on but I guess the worst case scenario is it looks like crap and I pay someone to do it anyway.

 

[nvrenuf]

Exactly. I like the all inclusive kit because it keeps me from buying the wrong stuff or forgetting something I'll need in the heat of the moment.

I think I may buy a couple of Harbor Freight spray guns ($20ish ea - 1 paint, 1 clear) and treat them as disposable, that way I can't screw up by not cleaning one correctly before moving on or storing.

 

[chris85]

Well crap, I started researching guns and paint and got myself all excited about getting new toys.

 

[chris85]

I like pics. Y’all like pics?

Did a little chop chop on the jimmy and put a free leveling kit in my daily. I wasn’t really digging this truck for awhile but I’m really liking her now.

 

[chris85]

Trying to stay busy so I’m gonna go ahead and mount the ferd shock towers. I was going to wait until I actually had shocks but I saw a way to do it without. Y’all correct this if I’m wrong.

I know I’ll be getting some 14” bilsteins with a full droop length of 34.9”. So, if I get my suspension to full droop I can just mount the brackets at, say, 34” for a little cushion?

Just looking and measuring it looks like I could have trouble hitting the heater box. I haven’t seen where anyone has had trouble with this but I’m still a littler nervous about it.

 

[mechted]

Might be easier to mount for full compression than for full droop.

I have 11" shocks mounted in front. Probably have 1.5" clearance from the top of the shock to the heater box.


The limiting factor for me was the driver side mount hitting a sheet metal tab on the body, which I bent slightly for clearance.


For both sides, I used one of the existing shock mount holes to line up... but I cant remember which one it was. Probably the one closest to the middle of the frame. Then drilled the other 2 in the frame to match the Ford bracket. I probably cut about 2 or 3 inches off the bottom of the ford bracket to make it fit/not hang below the frame.

Like I said, this was for 11" travel shocks. So modify as needed for your longer travel. Worst case, you mess it up, have to remove and drill some more holes later on when you have the shocks in hand.

 

[chris85]

Thanks for the pics! That’s perfect!


As far as I understand, wheel travel is ~75/25 droop vs compression (give or take). So if I set my shock at full droop then my compression should be safe. Just seems easier in my mind.

 

[chris85]

I lied. Guess this is Dylan’s first ride.... Merry Christmas!

 

[chris85]

Wife lifted the spending ban since Christmas is over! New goodies have already arrived!

BTR stage 2 truck cam. Lifters and other non-exciting stuff

And,

I decided to make a pretty big change to the build. Gonna ditch the 241 and go all out with the MAGNUM box 205!

I want this rig to be able to handle some pretty tough trails (see post #1, rubicon and Moab are on the bucket list) and be able to drive cross country to those trails. There aren’t many options to play here locally, so with that in mind the magnum will let me keep my 4:56s but still be around 60:1 in low/low for when that’s needed. My other concern has been the length of the setup. The doubler, although cheaper, was out on account of that. I looked at some others pretty hard, mainly the NWF blackbox-i, but after buying the extra support bracket and the required figure 8 adapter for my 205 it would be around the same price as the magnum and only 1/4” shorter. So magnum it is. It’s probably overkill for this truck but I’d rather do it now than be wishing I had in the future.

Got our annual snowboard trip to Steamboat next week so maybe I’ll have something going with this by Feb.

 

[chris85]

CO was awesome as usual. Coming down on the gondola I get THE call. Motors done! Picked it up and time to work! Did some other stuff too

 

[chris85]

Final compression ratio will be about 9.96:1 or less. Heads had to be milled, forgot to ask by how much, so I guessed on the far end for chamber size. 66cc

Cams max lift is .553 and the new pistons are stock dished (6cc) so I’m hoping piston valve clearance should be ok.

Got drill and call the next 2 weekends so it’ll be a little bit before I can really dig in.

 

[chris85]

First engine build, just looking for confirmation.

Checked bearing clearances yesterday. All look to be right at .002” except #1 and #5 caps. They’re just a hair over .002”, which means tighter clearance....The book I’m using states factory clearance to be between .0009-.0021” so I should be good? Hard to see in pics.

#1 and #2 rod clearance both were dead on at .002”. The crank was balanced and rods resized. Wondering if I need to continue further and check all of the rods.

Red crank, green rods