Just realized my fan theory is improbable. Guess I’ll just have to put everything back together and see.
CK5
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“Dylan’s” 89. Back at it!
- Thread starter chris85
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89 Jimmy 6.0/4l80e/MAGNUM 205/d60/14bolt
They did make a change on the pumps and t-stats. New part for the t-stat only is sized differently than original. When we have a t-stat issue on an earlier truck we sell the pump and t-stat together.
My 5.3 typically is a pain to fill and not get a air lock. If you have a vac-n-fill tool you'll avoid the problem. Most tool trucks sell them. My guys have snapon versions. It uses shop air pressure to draw a vacuum on the system. Helpful to see if it's sealed up, it will pull a vacuum, not sealed it won't. You'll know before putting coolant in it.
If you don't have access to one, pull the upper hose and fill from it. Burp while running. Should come out.
My 5.3 typically is a pain to fill and not get a air lock. If you have a vac-n-fill tool you'll avoid the problem. Most tool trucks sell them. My guys have snapon versions. It uses shop air pressure to draw a vacuum on the system. Helpful to see if it's sealed up, it will pull a vacuum, not sealed it won't. You'll know before putting coolant in it.
If you don't have access to one, pull the upper hose and fill from it. Burp while running. Should come out.
Did you fill the block using the top hose last time? I've seen ls engines get an air bubble when filling a dry engine only from the radiator, starting filling the block everytime after that.
I know the quality is different but I wonder if this might be something available in a parts house rental tool program?
I filled from the top hose up until it started spilling out of the radiator, attached hose to radiator, then topped off.
I read in the BillaVista cooling bible that a surge tank helps to eliminate this type of air problem, but I haven’t seen anyone really doing that.
My driveway is a huge hill so next time I’m parking there till fill her up. If that all doesn’t fix it I guess the surge tank is my next option. After that
I read in the BillaVista cooling bible that a surge tank helps to eliminate this type of air problem, but I haven’t seen anyone really doing that.
My driveway is a huge hill so next time I’m parking there till fill her up. If that all doesn’t fix it I guess the surge tank is my next option. After that
Oh I may have thought of something...
I may need to drop that top house down some.
I may need to drop that top house down some.
[whispers] biig blooock [whispers]
I have been leisurely searching for an 8.1. Can’t splurge on it at the moment. I’m so close!!!
Never checked. Gm has a special tool very similar so I end up borrowing from work. They might have though. Cool thing is once you shut the air off and open the valve for the coolant it just sucks it in. Pretty darn slick.
From the Gm masterefi tuning book. For your tstast/ fan question.
Guess I need to get my fan temp changes back
I think once I get around to swapping the water pumps and filling her up again i’ll Just unplug the fans long enough for the tstat to open.
I think I’m making progress. Still getting hot but the high temp fan is not coming on. We were able to get both to come on with HPtuners but not sure the deal now. Sent currentperformamce an email to check this harness out since I’ve already caught one mistake.
So new water pump, new thermostat(confirmed its functionality), relays/fuses good, front elevated, filled from the top, even filled some through heater core hoses, let it sit about and hour, topped it off, sat again, topped off again, heat on then ran it.
I had the cap off and radiator topped off, so while running it was spilling over; no air bubble noted. The top hose gets hot closer to the water pump and it’s almost cool right at the radiator inlet. Radiator itself is cool. It took a solid 10 minutes or so to get the temp up to 240 and then I shut it off. So I’m thinking things are working, I just need to get that other fan working. Each fan is supposed to blow 1300cfm.
Am I missing anything?
So new water pump, new thermostat(confirmed its functionality), relays/fuses good, front elevated, filled from the top, even filled some through heater core hoses, let it sit about and hour, topped it off, sat again, topped off again, heat on then ran it.
I had the cap off and radiator topped off, so while running it was spilling over; no air bubble noted. The top hose gets hot closer to the water pump and it’s almost cool right at the radiator inlet. Radiator itself is cool. It took a solid 10 minutes or so to get the temp up to 240 and then I shut it off. So I’m thinking things are working, I just need to get that other fan working. Each fan is supposed to blow 1300cfm.
Am I missing anything?
One thing I noticed in your last post on the fans. You say you can turn on the high temp fan on with HPtuners right? To me that confirms your circuit for the high fan. If the wiring was the issue you wouldn't be able to do that.
Yeah I had that thought too. That would mean we didn’t do something right when he came and set the temps. I really don’t want to have to pay another $150 for that
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I don’t have experience with any other square body than my own, but I’ll give you my experience.
My 6.0L with a griffin and a Taurus two speed fan will run all day with out turning on the second speed. I’m using the Volvo relays for the two speed. I’m set at 194 for first stage and 201 for second. Stop and go with the A/C on and 95F in the sun and I’ll hear the hi speed off and on. I’ve had the coolant drained down to the temp
sensor level in the block and had no issues bleeding the system.
I don’t have the hopped up cam that you do and haven’t personally checked my thermostat for temp.
My 6.0L with a griffin and a Taurus two speed fan will run all day with out turning on the second speed. I’m using the Volvo relays for the two speed. I’m set at 194 for first stage and 201 for second. Stop and go with the A/C on and 95F in the sun and I’ll hear the hi speed off and on. I’ve had the coolant drained down to the temp
sensor level in the block and had no issues bleeding the system.
I don’t have the hopped up cam that you do and haven’t personally checked my thermostat for temp.
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Also, I’ve got hptuner, but can’t remember how credits work. Does the credit stay with the VIN or does it stay at the tuner? I’m pretty sure I’ve got credits left, and can look at the software. It’s been a minute, but I had all the engine control, fuel, air, and trans stuff down. If I recall, was still learning the timing functions when I lost interest.
One way to confirm the circuit without the ecm is putting in a test relay similar to one of these:
I've got one a tech at work made for me. Take a spare relay and pop the lid off of it. Disable the load side of the relay and connect those two terminals to a manual switch with a couple of wires. Plug the relay in and you can override the ecm and force the fan on. Again, it confirms the circuit but only from the relay to the fan at that point. You could do the same thing with a power probe too if you had one.
You could confirm the control side of the circuit from the relay back to the ecm by checking continuity on it with both sides unplugged. If you have continuity and the fan works with the relay, the ecm isn't commanding the relay on.
These are just single speed fans. I’m wondering if I should just have them both work in sync since they arent super high flowing fans like the Taurus. One obviously won’t do the job alone.
One way to confirm the circuit without the ecm is putting in a test relay similar to one of these:
I've got one a tech at work made for me. Take a spare relay and pop the lid off of it. Disable the load side of the relay and connect those two terminals to a manual switch with a couple of wires. Plug the relay in and you can override the ecm and force the fan on. Again, it confirms the circuit but only from the relay to the fan at that point. You could do the same thing with a power probe too if you had one.
You could confirm the control side of the circuit from the relay back to the ecm by checking continuity on it with both sides unplugged. If you have continuity and the fan works with the relay, the ecm isn't commanding the relay on.
I’ve hooked the relay circuit directly to the battery and have gotten the fans to come on, and the relay does pass the click test. So in order to check continuity from the ecm I need to have it running and I should see a reading when the fan is supposed to come on?
Text the tuner guy and he set me the fan settings. I didnt realized we had set them so low. But I may just try to get them set in sync to come on at like 195-200. These motors tend to run around 210 from what information I’ve found.
Continuity is checked with the circuit disabled. As in unplugged at the relay and the ecm. Using the ohmmeter of your meter you connect your leads to the relay terminal for the control side and the pin at the ecm connector for the high speed fan. Still, if you commanded it on with the tuner software to me that proved the circuit was ok.
I'm a complete noob to tuning, but the screenshot raises some questions. Besides the temp values being on the low side, the ac enable/disable pids don't make sense. Enable and disable are set at 500psi. Is that just to not have it looking at ac pressure since you don't have a/c or at least a pressure sensor in the a/c system? Also the on temp a/c on for fan 1 is set to 284* which might be in someway dictating the fan #2 is not coming on even though the listing was for fan #1. Also the enable speed for fan 1 is 250 mph. Huh? Is that to mean the truck has to be moving 250 to enable the fan? Sum Ting Wong.
Like I said I'm no expert on the tuning side of things, but some of those settings seem odd to me.
I'm a complete noob to tuning, but the screenshot raises some questions. Besides the temp values being on the low side, the ac enable/disable pids don't make sense. Enable and disable are set at 500psi. Is that just to not have it looking at ac pressure since you don't have a/c or at least a pressure sensor in the a/c system? Also the on temp a/c on for fan 1 is set to 284* which might be in someway dictating the fan #2 is not coming on even though the listing was for fan #1. Also the enable speed for fan 1 is 250 mph. Huh? Is that to mean the truck has to be moving 250 to enable the fan? Sum Ting Wong.
Like I said I'm no expert on the tuning side of things, but some of those settings seem odd to me.
Yeah I think you have a point. I don’t know anything about tuning either but now that you mention those they do seem odd. Anyway I talked to the guy and he’s gonna come by for free and mess with some stuff. I’ll make sure to bring those up.
@Abusfullofnuns you got any info on those parameters?
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