CK5
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“Dylan’s” 89. Back at it!

89 Jimmy 6.0/4l80e/MAGNUM 205/d60/14bolt
Glad you’re messing with it!

How’s the new place?
 
[movievoice]If you build a shop, it will fit.....[/movievoice]
 
So i got plenty of things on the to do list; shocks, hydro assist, bumpers, but i think the first thing i want to tackle is a dual battery setup with a battery cut off switch. Trying to find the best system for me as mainly want simplicity. I dont see putting too many extra accessories on that will require the power. Just want a backup mostly, but the in-cab cut off switch is a must. I know alot of people use the hellroaring system and there is the Painless, 12vguy stuff....Just not sure which route to go.
 
Got a tune done Tuesday and, Man, It really woke this thing up. I knew the shift points were all way off, it would be in third before hitting 20mph and stayed there. It had enough power that it was still driveable and able to get it up to 60s and cruise fairly easy, but now that it stays in the cams powerband it feels like driving a brand new vehicle. Plenty of power on tap. It was also running super lean so he fix the fuel trim. This thing is more fun to drive than the jeep now. But, of course i have an idler pulley going out already. Gotta find time to mess with that.
 
Ok. I’m having a belt squeal issue. I have a Kwik performance AC bracket, and it started as a chirp. On inspection i noticed i had the wrong tensioner pulley installed. Swap the pulley and the chirp becomes a load squeal. I’ve gone through their trouble shooting. At one point the squeal stopped but the belt was jumping forward on the AC compressor. Was able to fix that but the squeal returned. Not sure where to go from here.
 
No help here, I have a little chirp chirp chirp too.
 
All the 30 year old parts are starting to show their age. Manage to break my heater box in the process. Hopefully some JB Weld will hold the stud tab back on.

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Well never really fixed the belt squeal problem, but I did get it to a more tolerable level. New heater core is in! I feel like thats a harder job than it should be, but hopefully it’ll be another 30 years before it needs to be done again. Took her for a spin and found a spot to let her flex a bit. The amount of of flex was pretty shocking and it still had more to go! To think, I was just toying around the idea of selling these 37s and going bigger, but these are rubbing even with some fender trimming. Everything was looking good but on the way home from a beer run she I got a check engine light. Luckily I made it home to my OBD II reader, P0332, low knock sensor voltage. Glad i didnt stop to check on the way home because it wont start now. Always something :doah:

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Well confirmed that it is a bad knock sensor. I’ll definitely replace both with some quality AC delco parts this time. I think these were cheap off amazon parts, dont remember. Glad that was easy to identify.

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replace the knock sensor harness too. Been there before with some $hitty autozone knock sensors that failed a short time later.....
 
Well, I found something interesting. I guess I missed cleaning off the knock sensor posts when I built the motor. The new knock sensor seals got ruined bc the seal rings from the original seals were still on the posts. Got those off and replaced the seals, sensors and harness. Hope all is well now. On a good note I got to see the cam and its looking good. Also did some more flexing on the test ride. I think I could stuff some 40s :D. May need an extra inch of drives shaft.

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What are the specs on the front shaft? Looks like a good amount of slip without being too long.
 
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