Any thoughts on using 0w-20 on a fresh hi compression 5.7 ? I'd like to hear nay's or yea's and WHY.
CK5
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0w-20 i. Fresh 5.7 ?
- Thread starter Holey76 - Square Nut
- Start date
I wonder something similar. I wouldn't do it after watching this video.
In the fleet around here, there’s a handful of GM and Toyota engines that are all more modern. All but the newest ones make “some” noise on the lighter or synthetic oils, such that I do not use anything lighter than 10w-30
Added bonus, GM hydraulic lifters really aren’t all that awesome. That will be your first clue it doesn’t like your lubrication
Unless you specifically had that engine machined to that, no
Added bonus, GM hydraulic lifters really aren’t all that awesome. That will be your first clue it doesn’t like your lubrication
Unless you specifically had that engine machined to that, no
I know a lot of engines that spec the extremely thin oil are also machined with tighter (fresh build) clearances than the average V8. I would not use it, there’s certainly no way I’d feel comfortable running it in my roller 454.
If it’s a flat tappet engine, no way, nor would I use anything without a high load of zddp…if it’s a roller I’d be okay with a lighter oil like 10w30 but no way I’d use 0w anything in anything but my air fryer.
Negative on the 0w20. Maybe in cold ass winter 5w20, personally I stick with 10w30 or 10w40
It wasn't designed for such marginal viscosity .
If it's a Singer Sewing machine great!
I've ran 2OW - 50 racing oil in everything since my first BMW out of school . Zero issues after running it in every vehicle I've touched.
If it's in a cold environment I've ran Valvoline 30 WT Semi Synthetic oil in the Diesel Benz.
When the oil gets hit it, it loses Viscosity.. the lower the viscosity number , the faster the curve shifts when heated.... Thinning ,& losing lubricity properties.
If it's a Singer Sewing machine great!
I've ran 2OW - 50 racing oil in everything since my first BMW out of school . Zero issues after running it in every vehicle I've touched.
If it's in a cold environment I've ran Valvoline 30 WT Semi Synthetic oil in the Diesel Benz.
When the oil gets hit it, it loses Viscosity.. the lower the viscosity number , the faster the curve shifts when heated.... Thinning ,& losing lubricity properties.
I forgot and put 5w20 in my wife's Scion TC, spec is 0w20, with a few miles it set a cam timing code.
Ok, So general consensus is not to use 0w-xx.
My next questions are because I don't see the whole pic, not because o doubt any of you:
Why is it my '16 silverado specs 0w-20 but my '88 5.7 (roller mtr) shouldn't use it ?
I'm aware that in the '80s when this block was made these 0W-XX full synthetic oils were used more on air craft? I'm scratching my head on this: why is it okay for one motor but not for another ?
My next questions are because I don't see the whole pic, not because o doubt any of you:
Why is it my '16 silverado specs 0w-20 but my '88 5.7 (roller mtr) shouldn't use it ?
I'm aware that in the '80s when this block was made these 0W-XX full synthetic oils were used more on air craft? I'm scratching my head on this: why is it okay for one motor but not for another ?
The main reason oils get thinner and thinner are for fuel economy reasons.
The 88 350 was never designed or machined for 0w oil. idk how meticulous you need to be to machine a 350 tight enough for 0w oil, or even if it can be done. Modern engine are designed and using different materials, using the thin oils to control cam timing and some diesels to open injectors. I am sure the oil galleries, lifter bores,bearing clearances, and oil pump were all adjusted to use 0w oils.
Yep mostly all about fuel economy, thin oils showed up with variable cam phasers and lifters that deactivated to improve mpg (and we all know how well that works 
). Jeep specd 5w20 in the 3.8 when they stuck it in the wrangler and had horrible oil consumption issues. If you look back when that engine was in the caravan it specd 10w30 and was fine. They changed nothing about the way the engine was built but changed oil specs to get better mpg numbers.
). Jeep specd 5w20 in the 3.8 when they stuck it in the wrangler and had horrible oil consumption issues. If you look back when that engine was in the caravan it specd 10w30 and was fine. They changed nothing about the way the engine was built but changed oil specs to get better mpg numbers.
On my fleet vehicles at work I don't run anything less than a 5w20 oil. I don't trust that super thin stuff. They are all chevy, ford, and dodge trucks. Way too much idle time.
chrisgt
Registered Member
A lot of vehicles that specify 0w20 in the US want 5w30 overseas, too. Just bought my wife a new Mazda and this is the case, the manual says if you have the car in Canada to use thicker oil. This tells me it must be just for emissions purposes, personally I wouldn't run it in anything where I'm not trying to stay in a warranty.
Modern ls/lt engines with vvt and afm use oil as a way to control those features. They have small passageways that thicker oils just won’t work in. It’s also why the LT engines run 8 quarts in the pan because they need the volume of oil to run that crap along with the lubrication needs.
A traditional small block was never designed to run that thin of oil. The last vortec engines were 5w30 at the thinnest. I wouldn’t run less than that.
A traditional small block was never designed to run that thin of oil. The last vortec engines were 5w30 at the thinnest. I wouldn’t run less than that.
The oil spec'ed for the car isn't necessarily what's best for it, there are other factors at play (like EPA rating). The manufacturers need the vast majority of the engines to make it through the warranty period, but they're not looking for 300k miles. As the owner, losing 2% fuel economy with normal viscosity is way cheaper than wiping out a bearing or lifter.
Likewise, lengthening the oil change interval has no positive effect on the engine, it just reduces the warranty service cost and is viewed as a "feature" by some potential buyers (oil change is a hassle - isn't it great to take it in less often?). I see way too many dirty engines and related failures of cam phasers, AFM solenoids, etc. to wait for the built-in oil life monitor.
Likewise, lengthening the oil change interval has no positive effect on the engine, it just reduces the warranty service cost and is viewed as a "feature" by some potential buyers (oil change is a hassle - isn't it great to take it in less often?). I see way too many dirty engines and related failures of cam phasers, AFM solenoids, etc. to wait for the built-in oil life monitor.
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A 6.2L in a 2008 yukon xl denali will handle anything from 5w20 to 15w40. It's got 280k and runs like 5-10 psi of oil pressure at idle lol.
The DOD system in a 2010 5.3 did not play well with 15w40
I'm going to run 5w-30 as that falls within what GM spec'd the 350's for towards the end of the run, and it's the "upper" end of what my car specs (vs. the "optimal" 5w-20). Just to cut down on the oil weights I have to keep around.
The Honda gets 0W-20 because they spec'd it and while I know it's mainly about economy, I'm not going to second guess their engineers either.
It would be nice to run all the same weight in all vehicles I own, but pretty much all studies and testing I've seen indicate you are giving up protection using the thinner weights. Especially where they aren't spec'd.
If it's a cost thing, both Wal Mart and Costco sell their synthetics for around $4/qt (regular price) and with the going rates, that's not bad. Costco's 2x 5qt packs are handy.
The Honda gets 0W-20 because they spec'd it and while I know it's mainly about economy, I'm not going to second guess their engineers either.
It would be nice to run all the same weight in all vehicles I own, but pretty much all studies and testing I've seen indicate you are giving up protection using the thinner weights. Especially where they aren't spec'd.
If it's a cost thing, both Wal Mart and Costco sell their synthetics for around $4/qt (regular price) and with the going rates, that's not bad. Costco's 2x 5qt packs are handy.
any gen 1 or gen 2 sbc I wouldn't go lower than 10, 10w30 or 10w40, except where hard freezing happens daily, then thinner is ok for that weather.
Anywhere like SW AZ that never sees freezing I'd go 15-40 Delo or Rotella, am running 20w50 a lot lately VR1 or Lucas, be cause flat tappet cam.
Anywhere like SW AZ that never sees freezing I'd go 15-40 Delo or Rotella, am running 20w50 a lot lately VR1 or Lucas, be cause flat tappet cam.
