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$1,000 per axle for 4:11's.! ! ! ?

BADROC

BADROC

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Ok, I have an 88' k5 with 6" lift on 38's its slow outta the hole. Wanting some torque looking for 4:11's. When I was in Vegas a friend could've done em for $500 (plus parts) for both axles. I get here to Tx. And I'm told by 4wheel parts they want 1K per axle. Sounds expensive anyone got any ideas as to a fair price? It's a 10 bolt with what I'm told is 3:01's .
 
I've seen other places that charge that much.

A cheaper way would be to shop for axles that already have a deeper gear.

Military axles have 4.56's. Possible you can find them for cheaper and upgrade at the same time.
 
For a retail shop that sounds about right. You need to price it around. Find a Mom & Pop shop or a gearhead that does work on the side. Compare pricing against Randy's Ring & Pinion or one of the vendors on this board for the parts.




EDIT: the bigger axle idea is a good one, but you would have the added expense of new wheels, & possibly tires.
 
What are the details of your K5? Is it the stock automatic trans? Have you verified the current axle gears are 3.08's? Or did somebody just say "I think that is what the Blazer's had? The reason I say that, if it is an auto trans, is that by '88 the 3.08's don't seem to be that common. However if it does have that gear ratio I have no doubt it's a slug with 38" tires.

Auto trans = don't waste your time with only 4.11 gears. Actually, wouldn't waste the time or money on the 10-bolts.

Manual trans = 4.11 may not be too bad if you spend time on the highway, and assuming you have 3.08 stock.

If you had 3.73 stock than it's a waste of time and money to go 4.11 as it's a very, very small difference.
 
MY '88 K5 had an auto with 2.73's. It had 36's on it wow what a slug. I put 4.56's in it & it felt like a hotrod.

With that said it is always a good idea to verify what gear you have before changing.
 
stay away from 4wp lots of bad story's on here over the years.

mom n pop / member of the site in your area / 3/4 ton or 1 ton swap . lots of options.
 
6.2Blazer said:
What are the details of your K5? Is it the stock automatic trans? Have you verified the current axle gears are 3.08's? Or did somebody just say "I think that is what the Blazer's had? The reason I say that, if it is an auto trans, is that by '88 the 3.08's don't seem to be that common. However if it does have that gear ratio I have no doubt it's a slug with 38" tires.

Auto trans = don't waste your time with only 4.11 gears. Actually, wouldn't waste the time or money on the 10-bolts.

Manual trans = 4.11 may not be too bad if you spend time on the highway, and assuming you have 3.08 stock.

If you had 3.73 stock than it's a waste of time and money to go 4.11 as it's a very, very small difference.
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I'm not sure what the gearing is, I've been told that was the standard gearing. However it was a DPW truck so it came with whatever may be the city's package (maybe I should research that) is there anywhere on thevtruck I could find that info ? Also it's a 700R4 granny.
 
$1000 an axle is not ludicrous for a re-gear. Think about it. $160 for gears, $140 for a good setup kit, $20 in fluid and brake clean. Thats $320 in parts and materials plus going from 3.07s you should need a new carrier at $80ish.

So thats $400 parts and materials and $600 labor. Now am I saying I would pay that kind of money for it, no BUT considering the fact that a shop doing a re-gear in the truck involves a lot more than bringing someone a stripped down housing and having them do gears a full 8 hours isn't that long and $75-$100 an hour is the going shop rate.

Break it down and $1000 doesnt sound like too bad of a deal.
 
my '88 had 3.08s. I regeared (myself) to 4.11s and now 1 ton 4.56s. I would say with 38s, I recommend you find some CUCV 4.56 axles. ~$1500 seems to be the going rate in my area. By the time you're done, you'll have the gear and the beef. Wheels and tires extra, though.

But 1) I wouldn't spend money regearing the 10b if you're running 38s; 2) 4.11 may not be quite deep enough for 38s; 3) when re-geared, you'll have enough torque back there to break your 10b and wish you'd have gone 1 ton anyway; 4) If your mechanically inclined and feel like investing in your axles, you can buy the tools (pinion depth gauge/mag-based dial) to do it yourself for far less than the price of one axle re-gear labor.
 
rebelgregory said:
my '88 had 3.08s. I regeared (myself) to 4.11s and now 1 ton 4.56s. I would say with 38s, I recommend you find some CUCV 4.56 axles. ~$1500 seems to be the going rate in my area. By the time you're done, you'll have the gear and the beef. Wheels and tires extra, though.

But 1) I wouldn't spend money regearing the 10b if you're running 38s; 2) 4.11 may not be quite deep enough for 38s; 3) when re-geared, you'll have enough torque back there to break your 10b and wish you'd have gone 1 ton anyway; 4) If your mechanically inclined and feel like investing in your axles, you can buy the tools (pinion depth gauge/mag-based dial) to do it yourself for far less than the price of one axle re-gear labor.
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So would I be better off investing in a 1 ton? Is that still a 6 lug? Cause I just bought 4 new 6 lug rims >:(
 
BADROC said:
So would I be better off investing in a 1 ton? Is that still a 6 lug? Cause I just bought 4 new 6 lug rims >:([/QUOTE

No good news here.

They are 8 lug. And 15" wheels are not a direct bolt on deal. You're gonna have to do a cost-benefit analysis and make your own decision. But I've been there. Twice.

I rebuilt a 10 bolt with 4.10s twice after blowing carriers with just 35s. After converting to tons, I wish I would have just done it in the beginning.
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BADROC said:
So would I be better off investing in a 1 ton? Is that still a 6 lug? Cause I just bought 4 new 6 lug rims >:(
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If you can't find someone to do it cheaper then yes probably be better just going to tons and finding some with 4.56s, chances are they will be CUCV axles do a plus is the fact it will have a detroit locker in the rear.

No they are not 6 lug, but lots of things are and it shouldn't be too hard to sell your new wheels and get some bling 8 lugs ones.

While your at it upgrade to a 17" rim so the tire selection is wide open
 
If you're dead set on 6 lugs, the 14b semi float rear was offered in a 4.10 ratio. If it were me, and it was at one point, look for 3/4 or 1 ton axles with deeper gears. Then you can go thru them, take your time and make them almost like new. I wouldn't waste time or money w/ 10 bolts and 38s. :waytogo:
 
If you are a street cruiser/mall crawler then you could get away with 10-bolts, but still wouldn't recommend them. You don't NEED to spend the big dollars to get a Dana 60 front. 1-ton or 3/4 ton, generally you are talking about the same rear axle in a 14FF.

The ideal gear ratio with a 700r4 and 38's is more like 4.88 or 5.13. However buying a matching set of 3/4 ton axles (8 lug 10-bolt front and 14-bolt rear) for a few hundred dollars and 4.10's are pretty common. While lower gears would be better, the 4.10's would be substantially better as compared to 3.08's.
 
With 38's and OD, I would want 5.13's. That might be as low as you can go in 10b.

The 1/2-ton front is pushing your luck (if you wheel), but the 1/2-ton rear is probably on borrowed time. I wouldn't put $2k into half tons.
 
GEEZE LOUISEZE! That's a lot to put together, I'm trying to research what is in there specifically, like it said it was a city utility truck. It's a Lil slow with the 38's but not a slug I've rebuilt the engine so I just want torque on tap! :waytogo: and I'm not sure I can win the knife fight with my wife over the money I'm gonna put into it. . . . So I've got a lot of math to do and in the mean time sleep with one eye. Open :dunno: but thanks a ton for the info.
 
Uhh dumb question but where do I find the RPO code on the truck, I learned a few codes which may answer my question about. What's in it for gears. :D
 
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