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1/4 Elliptical Springs

Josh,

Whats the rest of the specs on your rig? (Engine, trans, tcase, frontend w/ gears and locker, rearend w/ gears and locker, actual height of lift, etc.)

Thanks.
 
*Registered and insured as a 1980 GMC Jimmy
*454 tbi
*th400
*homemade 203/205 (whole driveline dropped about 8" and pushed rearward about 9")
*dual optima red top batteries
*shorty headers with full 2.5" aluminized dual exhaust with 2 chamber flowmasters
*warn 12000lb winch with removable cradle for mounting in rear (recessed in front for better approach angle)
*driveshafts - 1350 cvs with 1410s on the axles, long slip from jesse
*60 front with 35 spline outers & cage diff guard - welded
*14 bolt with disks & cage diff guard - detroit
*full hysteer setup with hydro assist, ram from northern tool and homemade reinforced hysteer arms/tie rod/drag link using stock 1 ton chevy tre's
*4" skyjacker softride front springs with dropped mounts and some revolver shackles i made
*10 point cage with racing seats
*4 core radiator with dual electric pusher fans from a fiero
*aluminum fuel cell mounted up in the rear along with spare 44" bogger
*44 - 19.5 - 16.5 boggers
*full set of autometer gauges
*Hurst ratchet shifter

i did all the fabrication with a 250 miller mig while i was in college a few years ago.

all the bushings on the rear suspension are plain old poly bushings with the wide shoulders (from Stephen's place). i have run them without any problems so far. the 'buckets' on the axle end of the springs were made to pivot in all directions to not cut down on the amount of flex. i am very happy with the design.
 
sled_dog said:
I took a bunch of pictures of Josh's K5 at Carlisle All Truck Nationals, so here are some.

carlisle059.jpg
Click to expand...

That IMCO muffler came from my both.. :wink1: Is he with ya'll?
 
josh454 said:
*Registered and insured as a 1980 GMC Jimmy
*454 tbi
*th400
*homemade 203/205 (whole driveline dropped about 8" and pushed rearward about 9")
*dual optima red top batteries
*shorty headers with full 2.5" aluminized dual exhaust with 2 chamber flowmasters
*warn 12000lb winch with removable cradle for mounting in rear (recessed in front for better approach angle)
*driveshafts - 1350 cvs with 1410s on the axles, long slip from jesse
*60 front with 35 spline outers & cage diff guard - welded
*14 bolt with disks & cage diff guard - detroit
*full hysteer setup with hydro assist, ram from northern tool and homemade reinforced hysteer arms/tie rod/drag link using stock 1 ton chevy tre's
*4" skyjacker softride front springs with dropped mounts and some revolver shackles i made
*10 point cage with racing seats
*4 core radiator with dual electric pusher fans from a fiero
*aluminum fuel cell mounted up in the rear along with spare 44" bogger
*44 - 19.5 - 16.5 boggers
*full set of autometer gauges
*Hurst ratchet shifter

i did all the fabrication with a 250 miller mig while i was in college a few years ago.

all the bushings on the rear suspension are plain old poly bushings with the wide shoulders (from Stephen's place). i have run them without any problems so far. the 'buckets' on the axle end of the springs were made to pivot in all directions to not cut down on the amount of flex. i am very happy with the design.
Click to expand...

Josh,

Sounds like a great setup! The only thing I'd change is I'd get rid of the body lift and trim the fenders more for tire clearance. I'm also digging the black paintjob.
 
Last edited:
The only thing I'd change is I'd get rid of the body lift and trim the fenders more for tire clearance
Click to expand...

He pretty much needs the body lift to keep the tires out of the cab. this thing probably has at least 2 feet of travel at each tire.( and more in the rear if he pushes it. Someone has a flex pic of it from paragon a few years back, Alan?) this truck flat out works, in rocks/ hills/ dirt, and he drives the damn thing like 75 mph on the highway too.
 
The other reason i can think of for the body lift is much mouch me moved the drivetrain back, he need the room for firwall clearance, but how can you tell he has a body lift?
 
79k20350 said:
The other reason i can think of for the body lift is much mouch me moved the drivetrain back, he need the room for firwall clearance, but how can you tell he has a body lift?
Click to expand...

Go to his webshots site, and you can see some pics on there where its obvious that he's got a body lift on it.
 
4" body lift to make room for the drivetrain to be pushed back, as noted above. i can't remove them or the 44"s in the rear would start denting the bottom of the floor. my rear fenders get flattened to the bottom of the floor each time i really tuck the wheel (as you might be able to see in the pics).
 
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