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$1.50 Headlight Adjuster Solution

fabjunkie

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I'm sure I'm not the first to battle these stupid plastic retainers for the headlight adjusters. The old white ones have decent thread engagement and seem to hold well. Problem is that they get brittle and break when you change out a headlight. The new black ones that are available have hardly any thread engagement and seem to strip as soon as you put the spring on.

Because of this I wanted to use a T-nut...
508%20T-Nut.JPG

But could not find any local and they are probably some $ if you can find them. The other problem would be finding them in the 1/4-28 thread that the adjuster bolts are.

After doing some running around and looking at different options I came up with this.

(8) 1/4-28 Nuts
(8) 1/4 Fender Washers
$1.48 total at Ace

Tack the nuts to the washers and you end up with this compared to the ****ty plastic ones.
IMG_20120722_142106.jpg

IMG_20120722_142054.jpg


You will have to bend or cut and edge off the washer for the top bolts. I didn't and will see if I end up having to pull them back out. I like this much better as they are not going to strip out and the width of the nut fits the hole in the core support perfectly to keep it from spinning while adjusting the headlights. I have to wait for it to get dark out so I can adjust them, but I'll be happy to not have my headlights pointing at the ground directly in front of the truck. :waytogo:
 
only slight problem i see is rattling off adjustment as the plastic acts as a lock for the bolt.

mabye some light duty locktight screw lock . its below the blue level made for little screws.

but yes good design.
 
I thought about that but will see how they hold. If needed I can throw another nut on the backside and use it as a jam nut from behind. Low level Locktite would probably be better though.
 
Thats funny, I thought I was the only one trying to come up with something to cure that stupid design. Ive got a couple ideas but nothing has panned out yet. Im trying to come up with something that is stronger than the OEM plastic retainers but also allows vibration to be soaked up. That is the one thing I would worry about when solid mounting the lights like that. Otherwise why not just weld a nut with built in washer to the rad. support or something like that.


Also with your design, how are you going to keep it from pushing backwards thru the rad support. Unless you build a second one, so you are basically sandwiching the rad support between two washers and nuts, one on the inside and one on the outside. Unless Im missing something.
 
I'm thinking this design relies on the spring to hold the washer against the back of the rad support. I suppose if you adjusted out too far, the nut would back up and spin.
 
anything is better than those POS plastic nuts

I used one washer and one nut on each side of the core support. PITA to adjust but it's only ONCE :)
 
If you look thru the Dorman body parts selection part of the catalog,they sell some flat metal "nuts" that some cars and trucks used for the headlamp adjusters--the nuts look similar to the ones used on the front fenders to the inner fenders,only they are flat,and can be drilled on each side and pop riveted or screwed to the radiator support....body shops I dealt with used to order them by the box to use on GM vehicles that had the crap plastic ones..I've seen some metal "T" nuts used on wooden furniture that could be used in the same manner,in the hardware "drawers" at Lowes..but they wouldn't be the correct thread for the stock headlamp screws,you'd have to find suitable screws to go with them...I always hated those plastic POS nuts,every time I'd go for a sticker ,the guy would STRIP them without fail!...
 
anything is better than those POS plastic nuts

I used one washer and one nut on each side of the core support. PITA to adjust but it's only ONCE :)

I almost did that, but didn't want to dick with the batteries and what not. If this doesn't work out, I'll probably end up doing that or just tacking these to the core support.

I'm thinking this design relies on the spring to hold the washer against the back of the rad support. I suppose if you adjusted out too far, the nut would back up and spin.

Yep, they are nice and tight though. We'll see how they hold up over time. Regardless, it beats paying $5 per light for the plastic ****.
 
I ended up having to order those. No one in town ever heard of them, let alone had any on their shelves, I tried all the major nut/bolt places including grainger.

They go by FLoating Nut, Captured nut, backing plate with nut, etc etc. I found them thru Pegasus Racing if anyone is interested. Ill do a quick write up on the project once I get them. This HAS to be a better solution to the cheap ass plastic from the factory. I broke one just trying to get the adjuster out so I could make sure I had the right threads ( 1/4 - 28 BTW, lol).
 
Those are real close to the ones I mentioned,only they didn't have the holes already drilled in them....we sold a brand of body moulding clips called "W & E" and they started making ones just like those pictured above,just about the same time I left that job in the early 1990's..not sure if that company is still in existance or not now...they had just about every moulding clip,and other auto body fastener hardware you could think of...
 
I ended up ordering mine thru Pegasus Racing part # MS21059-4

That site I posted you had to call and get a quote, blah blah blah, I wanted to get these on their way.

But that site has ones with NYLON or FIBRE Washer inserts which would probably be better, so we shall see.
 
Ohh, I like those. Will be watching the for the install in case mine don't stay where they should.

Cool.. I just picked up rivot gun and rivots from my buddy. Ill have everything stripped out before the "nuts" get here and then it should be a pretty simple install (line them up, drill pilot hole and rivot in place).

Ive been trying to think of a solution for awhile now and this thread got me back on it. Time to make it happen. It certainly cant be worse than what the factory come up with. lol.
 
:waytogo: agree
I like the idea of tacking the nuts to the core support. Wish I could tack locking nuts to core, but that would melt the nylon :(
You use the "pinch nuts" that have been squished slightly triangular.
 

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