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1 core radiator

wheels87k5

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Is there such a thing as a 1 core radiator for K5 Blazers? I was checking the inside of my radiator to see how many cores, and there is only one row, about 1 3/8 inches wide....that's how wide the center of the radiator is...the ends of the radiator are about 1 7/8 inches wide.

This is a new radiator, metal in the center with plastic on the ends. I don't remember the core size when I bought it. It was about 3 months ago and I haven't found the receipt to see if it's listed. This might be part of the cooling problem I'm having.
 
I take it that this is on an 87?. My 87 came with a metal tank 3 row from the factory. It is possible that this is a replacement radiator for the truck. However I wouldn't use less than a 2 row in mine. And that only applies to the wide row like your speaking of, not the old small 2 row. What are the specs on the truck? Stock motor or modified? If modified, what modifications where made?
 
Sounds like you've got an aluminum replacement. Pretty typical for them to be only "one" core, but a lot wider core than the brass/copper radiator cores.

The wider AL core(s) are supposed to be more efficient. if it was sold as a replacement for your vehicle, it's probably sufficient.

Smallest copper/brass I've seen in a truck (and no idea if it were stock) was a 2 core.
 
Sorry...I keep forgeting to put specs on here.

87 K5 350 TBI (bored .030 for stock rebuild)

Advanced Auto says it is a 2 core radiator....only being 1 3/8" wide seems small but I've been told those are stock for that year. It is flush with the top of the radiator support.
 
I am at a loss as to why this K5 has cooling problems.....everything is new and I need to get this on the road "Yesterday".

The fan is 6" away from the radiator....would a spacer help? The a/c radiator is fairly clean so there should be no blockages there...it has a small trans cooler radiator attached to the front of the a/c rad.

Let me emphasize again, everything is new.....block, heads, water pump, hoses, cap, radiator, clutch fan, sensors, thermostat (removed for now), gauge, antifreeze, heater core bypassed. :confused:

I know parts can be bought that are bad out of the box, and possibly even the wrong part.

With thermostat out, and sitting idle in the garage, it will get up to 210 degrees......when I take it for a drive at maybe 45-50 mph, it will go down to the mark between 100 and 210. That's why I was wondering about a fan spacer to get it a little closer and see if it will pull more air. Maybe it's a bad (new) clutch fan.
 
Are you getting these temp readings from the factory gauge? If so, they are notorious for being incredibly innaccurate, and more useful for "it normally sits at 300 degrees" then actually believing it is 300 degrees.

There is a possiblity your cooling system just needs to be burped. If thats the case, just drive the front end up on an incline so the rad sits higher than the rest of the engine. Let the truck cool right down to ambient temp, pull the rad cap, and fire the truck up with the heater on full blast.

You should be able to see the coolant start to flow down and into the rad as soon as the engine reaches the thermostat's temp rating. Add fluid as nessessary. Try squeezing the upper rad hose & heater hoses to encourage any air bubbles to keep moving until they come out.

Once you are satisfied that the coolant level isn't dropping any more, then install the cap, and fill the overflow bottle up a touch past the line. Should be good to go after that :)
 
Forget about the spacer....If the fan moves towards the radiator 1" it will hit the bottom of the shroud.

I have about 3" of clearance between the fan and top of the shroud and about 1/2" between the fan and bottom of the shroud.
 
wheels87k5 said:
I am at a loss as to why this K5 has cooling problems.....

thermostat (removed for now)



With thermostat out, and sitting idle in the garage, it will get up to 210 degrees......when I take it for a drive at maybe 45-50 mph, it will go down to the mark between 100 and 210. That's why I was wondering about a fan spacer to get it a little closer and see if it will pull more air.

Your problem is right there. You must have a thermostat otherwise you will end up with EXACTLY the problem you're having.
 
Thanks for the input, 4X4HIGH.....The blazer was redlining on me with the t-stat in so I removed it to make sure I had good flow....and it does. But with it out, at one time it still ran high (210) while at idle. And I'm finding out I don't have good air coming through the radiator.

I put a boxfan in front of the truck and turned it on high, and it cooled it down alot. :D
 
3 threads on this now...

It's gonna be something stupid... Your all over the park with this... iirc, it was having more problems underload at 50 mph.. thats plenty of air...

personally, I'm doubting this truck is overheating at all... your gauge is not accurate..

Do yourself a favor, instead of buying more parts, go buy one of these...

Minitemp.jpg
 
Ryoken, I owe you a beer, tea, pop, water....whatever you like to drink. I didn't take your advice as far as to quit buying parts...I went and bought a new electrical temp gauge. PROBLEM SOLVED!!!! Temp is where it is supposed to be. Truck is not overheating. Sorry for not listening earlier :doah:
Thank you. :D

And also a "Thank You" to all others who chimed in to help and deal with my stubborness, rants and tons of questions. :bow:
 
wheels87k5 said:
Ryoken, I owe you a beer, tea, pop, water....whatever you like to drink. I didn't take your advice as far as to quit buying parts...I went and bought a new electrical temp gauge. PROBLEM SOLVED!!!! Temp is where it is supposed to be. Truck is not overheating. Sorry for not listening earlier :doah:
Thank you. :D

And also a "Thank You" to all others who chimed in to help and deal with my stubborness, rants and tons of questions. :bow:


cool, good deal... :D

Glad ya got it.. Our trucks are notorious with their gauges..

Now you can move on to the next project.... :bow:
 

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