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1 month to 8.1 swap, then another month to Nv4500 swap

87 V20 Burb- 6.2 Diesel to 8.1-Th400 to Nv4500 I got around a month to complete, then a 800 mile drive. and then a 2300 mile roundtrip
Why do you say the pump was junk? Wobbling on the shaft?

How you describe the clutch is just how my old one worked. It seemed to have some resistance initially, but after turning it by hand a bit, the resistance went to almost zero. Theoretically that could be a feature because it's better to have no fan at all until the engine warms up, but it's pretty hard to find any documented numbers of how much resistance there should be at various temperatures. Perhaps it's a sign fluid loss.


The water pump was leaking badly from the lower weep hole and once i had it out, the shaft has a just a tad bit of side play and the bearing sounds like garbage. The impeller looks good though, no rot or wear.

The fan clutch just feels totally inconsistent. It has a dead spot when spinning it. I ordered a replacement to compare. I'm not big on finding out the hard way.
 
I got the replacement fan clutch and it acts the same way, so I am going to install it and cross my fingers. As a backup, I ordered a Hayden h/d replacement for $33. I’ll keep it in the Road trip spare parts box. It has all the functional take off sensors I replaced, t stat, random fittings like fuel an fittings, npt and inverted flare assortments, heater hose bypass, and more. While looking around at work, I picked up a fan clutch wrench. This thin one will fit behind the fan shroud much nicer than my huge box end. I’m on the road too much to get stranded somewhere with no backup.


I also got the replacement water pump gaskets. I got them in Fel Pro and Acdelco, surprisingly the Fel Pro ones look much better. I’ll toss the Delco’s into the spare box too.

This 208 gasket was tough to source locally so I got a extra one. I’m not going to whine about a $2 gasket.

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I had to reach far across the country to find this clutch master cylinder reservoir and bracket. These things are tough to find complete. A squarebody parts guy at Play Nice Customs had what I need. I’m hoping to have it before the weekend.

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I think I got the clutch hose figured out too. I ended up ordering these fittings and steel braided line.
I’m running the squarebody master cylinder and the ifs(pre internal slave) slave cylinder. It’s a metric fitting on the master and quick disconnect on the slave.

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Crap. I just noticed I ordered a 73” long hose. That’s probably a hair long. I’ll just confirm the fittings work with everything and then measure correctly.

dang it...
 
I’m running outta things to collect for the swap. The master cylinder to slave cylinder fittings and hose came in today. Just a quick check for the connections.

The JB fab shifter boot came in as well. I’ve gotten shifter boot setups a few times from them. The rubber boot on this one feels a bit stiff and not as flexible as the ones in the past. I’m hoping that I am just over thinking it and it will be fine.

The clutch master cylinder reservoir and bracket should be in by Friday. I’ll be out of town till Tuesday, so I really hope to get started next week.



last question. I was thinking of running one of those pto coolers for the nv4500. I was looking at the short versions with the filter and sight plug. Thoughts?

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Of course it would be a great time to have to replace the dual batteries in the burb(not). I bought a new set when I bought the Burb around 2014, but yesterday one of them dropped a cell and the other is getting weak. Uhg.

I really like Deka brand batteries. The old ones were constantly put to the test and I’m happy with how they have held up. I was never left stranded anywhere. They are definitely underrated, when you put a amp gauge on these they often actually measure 1050-1100amps.

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Anytime someone asks for battery recommendations, I mention the Deka Intimidator batteries. I've been using them for over 10 years now without any trouble.
 
Anytime someone asks for battery recommendations, I mention the Deka Intimidator batteries. I've been using them for over 10 years now without any trouble.
Same here. I have them in everything, cars/trucks/camp trailer and car trailer. My work has been selling them for over 15yrs now.
 
I had some diagrams for the clutch pedal mounting holes. I'll see if I can locate them again, my old tablet died on me. Nice build! What year clutch master cylinder are you using?

Here ya go!
 
I had some diagrams for the clutch pedal mounting holes. I'll see if I can locate them again, my old tablet died on me. Nice build! What year clutch master cylinder are you using?

Here ya go!


Thanks for the link!

I am using the ifs external slave cylinder. I am going to use the factory nv4500 bellhousing.
 
Of course it would be a great time to have to replace the dual batteries in the burb(not). I bought a new set when I bought the Burb around 2014, but yesterday one of them dropped a cell and the other is getting weak. Uhg.

I really like Deka brand batteries. The old ones were constantly put to the test and I’m happy with how they have held up. I was never left stranded anywhere. They are definitely underrated, when you put a amp gauge on these they often actually measure 1050-1100amps.

View attachment 340330

View attachment 340331

It appears these are manufactured by the same people! This one died after a hard 7 years...I picked up its twin as an oreilly brand this time. They are great batteries.2F5BCE20-F378-400B-BB1B-0A9A52BC80C0.jpeg
 
It appears these are manufactured by the same people! This one died after a hard 7 years...I picked up its twin as an oreilly brand this time. They are great batteries.View attachment 340481
I'm kinda curious why the Duralast has a better warranty than the East Penn version. Would you mind posting the part number?
 
I'm kinda curious why the Duralast has a better warranty than the East Penn version. Would you mind posting the part number?
Sometimes it's a chain choice.
Autozone could have a better warranty to get more customers.
I see it all the time
 
It would appear that the last of the planned out puzzle pieces came in. This little sucker was tough to find. I ended up getting it from a squarebody guy with a company called Play Nice Customs. I cleaned it up and I’m now ready to start drilling, cutting and installing. I’ve only got a week, maybe two, to wrap this swap up.


Does anyone know if the internal bladder thing needs to be squished down like a brake master cylinder gasket? Where is the fill marks?

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Ok. My buddy chimed in and said I’ll need a cooler for this thing since I go long distances and haul. So, someone school me on these things.

I hadn’t planned on another big $$$ purchase, but if it’s needed. I’ll do it.

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I'd hold off on that one. @Larry ran coolers like that on his 8.1/4500 K10 and didn't see any major difference in temps but did have a hell of a time sealing them up. Not sure if he'll see this to chime in or you might dig through his thread.
 
Hope you have better luck with the master cylinders, I went through 3 and once i had 2 die a year apart. I guess they dont make them like they used to. Mine was a Dorman, I could not find it anywhere else locally..
 

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