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10 bolt chromoly front axle shafts...???

cheavyk10

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Has anyone had experience with the USA standard gear pn W24118 front axle shaft kit?
These are 4340 chromoly for a 28 spline front 10bolt.
Apparently these are Yukon's other brand?
I recently stepped up to 37's, and was thinking my stock axle shafts would be the next weak link.
For the price of the chromo shafts I could just grab a few replacement stock shafts for each side from the local junkyard.
I run an 8lug 10 bolt front w/ a spartan locker and 4.10's.
 
I believe the US gear are Yukon's that don't pass QA for what ever reason. I "heard" was finish blems.
 
From my experience the weak link is the u-joints and not the shafts.......though they probably have a better chance of surviving a broken u-joint as that is almost guaranteed to take out the yoke on a standard shaft.
 
Well I upgraded from 297X joints to 760X joints, and carry spares, so theres that. At this point I think spare stock shafts might be the way to go for me.
 
full snap ring mod and quality beefy joints are the 2 big i have ever seen . otherwise stub shafts .

seen more popped out caps take out the ear's on the 44/10 bolt axles .
 
full snap ring mod and quality beefy joints are the 2 big i have ever seen . otherwise stub shafts .

seen more popped out caps take out the ear's on the 44/10 bolt axles .
What is the snap ring mod you speak of ?
 
I never cared for this mod. You have to make sure the snap ring is the same gage as the normal retainers

Good maintenance and some Spicer 5-760x joints will go a long way
 
I think I understand you grind the ears flat, where the inside retainer sits, to accommodate a full outside snap ring.

Yes that would have to be a thick snap ring to fill the retainer grove.
 
To be honest I would recommend keeping fresh Spicer joints in factory shafts and maybe a small tack weld on the u-joint cap. 28 spline 10-bolt shafts are pretty easy to find and cheap, so keep a spare set with you and know how to change them. Back in the day with hand tools I could swap out a front shaft in under an hour on the trail. With battery powered tools today I bet it could be done in 30-40 minutes.
Was looking at the Offroad Design page and it was close to $700 for chromo front axles with Spicer joints, and going on $1,000 to upgrade to Super Joints. Years ago I went through this same decision process and decided that I would rather put that chunk of money towards a D60. Especially considering the u-joints were always my issue and that $700 still left with the Spicers that always broke, and could still take out the expensive chromo shafts if they broke. No way I would spend $1,000 on a 10-bolt!
 
To be honest I would recommend keeping fresh Spicer joints in factory shafts and maybe a small tack weld on the u-joint cap. 28 spline 10-bolt shafts are pretty easy to find and cheap, so keep a spare set with you and know how to change them. Back in the day with hand tools I could swap out a front shaft in under an hour on the trail. With battery powered tools today I bet it could be done in 30-40 minutes.
Was looking at the Offroad Design page and it was close to $700 for chromo front axles with Spicer joints, and going on $1,000 to upgrade to Super Joints. Years ago I went through this same decision process and decided that I would rather put that chunk of money towards a D60. Especially considering the u-joints were always my issue and that $700 still left with the Spicers that always broke, and could still take out the expensive chromo shafts if they broke. No way I would spend $1,000 on a 10-bolt!
Valid points for sure. But there are no $1000 D60's laying out there that are ready to run either. So making the jump to a 60 is likely to cost double or better than the upgrade to Chromo shafts on a 10b or D44. Gears, bearings, lockouts and a traction device add up. If you end up with a dually axle, you got more money in to ditch the dually hubs.

The point I'm getting to is it may seem nuts to put that money into a 10bolt, but it's still way less than the price of entry on a D60 plus the rebuild cost.

Now to the OP's setup with a spartan locker and 37" tires, he may be pushing his luck. Most of the Chromo shafts are warrantied up to 35" tires. Unfortunately, there isn't any free lunch. 37" tires or bigger with a locker are going to push the limits of chromo shafts in a 10 bolt or stock shafts in a 60.
 
Valid points for sure. But there are no $1000 D60's laying out there that are ready to run either. So making the jump to a 60 is likely to cost double or better than the upgrade to Chromo shafts on a 10b or D44. Gears, bearings, lockouts and a traction device add up. If you end up with a dually axle, you got more money in to ditch the dually hubs.

The point I'm getting to is it may seem nuts to put that money into a 10bolt, but it's still way less than the price of entry on a D60 plus the rebuild cost.

Now to the OP's setup with a spartan locker and 37" tires, he may be pushing his luck. Most of the Chromo shafts are warrantied up to 35" tires. Unfortunately, there isn't any free lunch. 37" tires or bigger with a locker are going to push the limits of chromo shafts in a 10 bolt or stock shafts in a 60.
i had a 60 front srw all gone threw and ready to go with spicer non-neck down shafts new spicer joints king pins serviced ford inner tube seals .......... had it for $950 for over 2 years give or taske and no bites . wound up selling it to a guy after i swapped the srw hub for drw hubs for his c-30 to k30 swap . and the reason he got it was a friend was going right past my place on a trip with room .

i have 2 bare housings just sitting here now . and cant hardly give them away . shipping has killed the good deals .

i have my 1st dana 60 front still from a 85 k30 crew cab drw only things i have done is a pinion seal / rebuild king pins minus pins / wheel bearing service in 2001 and 2020 . otherwise its un touched from the day i pulled it in 2001 . its under its 4th truck now and done stock to 9" lift and 38" swampers on a built 400sbc . plowed snow since around 2012 or 2013 with a 8ft fisher blade and this past season a 9ft blade . i have tried to pop a shaft a few times but it just wont . . . and to top it all off its got the NO NAME u-joints in it from before i owned it and there greasable . . .

a good built axle with smart parts upgrades is worth it to a lot but not some . then if you start having problems like i did ( 6months and 2 dana 44 8 lug fronts with ring & pinion torn up ) i swapped to the 60 for the #3 and was done from that point on .
 
RCVs are guaranteed up to 40s,

 
i had a 60 front srw all gone threw and ready to go with spicer non-neck down shafts new spicer joints king pins serviced ford inner tube seals .......... had it for $950 for over 2 years give or taske and no bites . wound up selling it to a guy after i swapped the srw hub for drw hubs for his c-30 to k30 swap . and the reason he got it was a friend was going right past my place on a trip with room .

i have 2 bare housings just sitting here now . and cant hardly give them away . shipping has killed the good deals .

i have my 1st dana 60 front still from a 85 k30 crew cab drw only things i have done is a pinion seal / rebuild king pins minus pins / wheel bearing service in 2001 and 2020 . otherwise its un touched from the day i pulled it in 2001 . its under its 4th truck now and done stock to 9" lift and 38" swampers on a built 400sbc . plowed snow since around 2012 or 2013 with a 8ft fisher blade and this past season a 9ft blade . i have tried to pop a shaft a few times but it just wont . . . and to top it all off its got the NO NAME u-joints in it from before i owned it and there greasable . . .

a good built axle with smart parts upgrades is worth it to a lot but not some . then if you start having problems like i did ( 6months and 2 dana 44 8 lug fronts with ring & pinion torn up ) i swapped to the 60 for the #3 and was done from that point on .
But not in that part of the world that has rocks
 
i had a 60 front srw all gone threw and ready to go with spicer non-neck down shafts new spicer joints king pins serviced ford inner tube seals .......... had it for $950 for over 2 years give or taske and no bites . wound up selling it to a guy after i swapped the srw hub for drw hubs for his c-30 to k30 swap . and the reason he got it was a friend was going right past my place on a trip with room .

i have 2 bare housings just sitting here now . and cant hardly give them away . shipping has killed the good deals .

i have my 1st dana 60 front still from a 85 k30 crew cab drw only things i have done is a pinion seal / rebuild king pins minus pins / wheel bearing service in 2001 and 2020 . otherwise its un touched from the day i pulled it in 2001 . its under its 4th truck now and done stock to 9" lift and 38" swampers on a built 400sbc . plowed snow since around 2012 or 2013 with a 8ft fisher blade and this past season a 9ft blade . i have tried to pop a shaft a few times but it just wont . . . and to top it all off its got the NO NAME u-joints in it from before i owned it and there greasable . . .

a good built axle with smart parts upgrades is worth it to a lot but not some . then if you start having problems like i did ( 6months and 2 dana 44 8 lug fronts with ring & pinion torn up ) i swapped to the 60 for the #3 and was done from that point on .
Come out west bud. I can guarantee you could have sold your 60 for that price or better. It's just a different market out here.

Nobody was debating the strength of your 60. But I have seen stock 30 spline 60 outers get shelled out in Moab. The strength of a 60 is not what the OP was asking about.
 
So apparently these shafts aren't a direct replacement, the Yukon catalog says that I would need to get a different carrier that has larger bearings. Kind of a bummer, as I couldn't use my stock shafts as spares. Not to mention the cost increasing.
 
Hmm. So yours is the smaller shaft/lower spline count set?
I was fortunate that the D44 shafts were drop in
 

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