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10 Bolt Flat top Knuckle

Babaganoosh

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Just like the title says I need one for 6 or 8 lug. :thumb: Might just buy both but I prefer a 6 lug first.

Post pics of what you got.
 
left or right...?

are you going cross over...? if so, I have the passenger side D44 flat top you need...
 
p.s., 8 lug & 6 lug are the same...the spindles are different.:waytogo:
 
p.s., 8 lug & 6 lug are the same...the spindles are different.:waytogo:
Not quite...

Knuckles are the same on 6 and 8 lug axles, so are the spindles.

The difference comes in on small vs big bearing spindles. The D44's are more likely to have small bearing spindles with only a few near the end of production being the large bearing. 10 bolts all have large bearings. Both size spindles will fit any of the knuckles. They just need to match the bearing hub you are using.

Dana 44 axles have the PS flat top while 10 bolts do not... I know thatK30guy posted a big post at one time with all the tech data.
 
doh! :doah:

I knew that...thanks for reminding me...:waytogo:
 
One other thing, it is best to buy knuckles in pairs because the direction that the tie rod mounts is upside down between flat top vs. non flat top versions.
 
buy a reid knuckle ( aka old name dedenbear ) used $$$ plus machine work to make it take arm and ship back forth = $$$

so spend few more and get new beefy unit over stock and 4 stud steering arm mounting over stock 3 stud. read up on some guys having problems with 3 stud working loose over the keyed knuckles or reid 4 stud.

i have a pair of there 60 knuckles all i can say is DAM there some beefy knuckles.
 
I bought the Reid d44 one. It's beefy. But it's not $300+ beefy.

You could find a keyed one with an arm for alot cheaper and be good IMO.


I was just in a rush :doah:
 
IMHO its well worth the money to buy an aftermarket knuckle for a half ton x over.

I had many problems with the stock knuckles
 
I'm lost as to what I need for cross over steering, I thought i just needed the passenger flat top?

This is going on a web wheeler, I would like the reid knuckle but can't afford it at this time and need to get the truck running.
 
D44 flat tops had the tapers on the top side of the knuckle for the TRE. Your ten bolt has tapers on the bottom.

They need to be the same.
 
or, you could have it redrilled with the correct taper, or you could have straight and use a tapered bushing...that's what I had planned to use...

as far as xover steering, you need

flat top pass. knuckle

right side steering arm

2wd steering box (which you have I think)

new longer drag link

and the pitman arm.

here's a good pic, from ORD's catalog...

IMG_0500.jpg
 
don't forget machining of the knuckle . and if not local shipping to them and back to you in a large flat rate box . $16.oo each way around 40-50 range for machine work and drill/tap holes.
 
:confused:

what block...?:dunno:



The one like I used from ord.



Ben, I forgot about the tapered bushings they make for the other side. Just do that, then you can drill out you driver side and do that instead of needing another knuckle.
 
don't forget machining of the knuckle . and if not local shipping to them and back to you in a large flat rate box . $16.oo each way around 40-50 range for machine work and drill/tap holes.

I was hoping someone had a already set on the shelf done. :doah: Looks like it is far and in between to find those already setup.

The one like I used from ord.



Ben, I forgot about the tapered bushings they make for the other side. Just do that, then you can drill out you driver side and do that instead of needing another knuckle.

I'm so lost on what I need it's not even funny... So many people saying go different directions. :haha:

I need to sit down and re study this and come up with a plan.
:confused:

what block...?:dunno:

I have the custom ord springs and they are a tall leaf pack.
 
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