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10 bolt front axle refresh. Need help with part number on a couple things.

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phrogs

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I am going to be replacing the ball joints, and the axle shaft u joints. I have the moog ball joints and the spicer u joints.

What other while I'm in there should I be looking at?

I have it in my head I need to replace the seal on the backside of the Wheel bearing, but I'm having a hard time finding the part number.

Does anyone have the part number that I should be able to find at oriley's napa pep boys or the like?

I'd like spicer or timikin if I can.

Thanks.

Johnny
 
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You want the inner grease seal for the wheel bearings, I don't know the part number. Common item, shouldn't be an issue for the parts store.

You also want part number SBK1. That is the little stub shaft bearing and seal kit that goes inside the spindle. Available or orderable under that part number at most auto supply chains. Fairly inexpensive and worth doing while you have it all apart. It keeps water and dirt from entering the hub/bearing through the stub shaft tube.
 
Well got my parts together but now I need some tools my hammer didn't do much to break anything apart just bent parts.

I'm working with a used front axle and it still has the knuckles, and steering arm attached I wanted to salvage these knuckles so I have less to mess with and can swap this front end onto my truck.


But now I'm thinking about the lift ugh!

Tough country? Hell I really don't know.
 
What on earth could you be hammering on while doing an axle rebuild? And, what would you be hammering on that could bend? :eek1:

Maybe the steering arm, people always fight with those. Hit it HARD on the sides to release the cone washers. This is best done while the knuckles are still attached to the axle, the axle weight will pretty much hold it in place while hitting. If the axle is on stands you will probably knock it off the stands a couple times, be prepared and watch your feet.

The spindles can be tough to remove also. I've found it best to use a junk screwdriver to use as a wedge between it and the backing plate to separate them. Work one side, then the other, etc. Don't hammer on the bearing or seal surfaces for obvious reasons.

This is a different set up but, principle is the same.
2012-03-28_011559_remove_lower_ball_joint.jpg

After you remove the nuts, I like to thread the nuts back on a few threads so the knuckle doesn't go crashing to the floor. Hit this same location on the inner C to release the ball joint studs grip. Some downward pressure with a prybar while hitting sometimes helps release too.

Hope some of this helps. :waytogo:
 
is that a Ferrari...?:eek1::waytogo:
 
Here's where I'm at now. Got to get the ball joints out and I'll be on the wy to get this mounted on the truck.

image.jpg
 
Looks like you got it all apart ok. Go one step further and pull the carrier to replace the inner axle seals. Should also think about replacing the pinion seal too. You plan on cleaning and painting it all too?
 
Yeah those inner seals seem to be a pain got any pointers on them?

I did think about doing that pinion seal as well just because.
 
Pull the carrier, this'll give you a chance to inspect the bearings and races. Mark your bearing caps L and R so they go back in the right way. The old seals pop right out with a prybar or whatever. I think i used a large socket and extension to install the new seals. Just tap 'em in with a hammer. Been a few years since I went through my front 10b. Going off of memory here.

Are you familiar with the process of measuring pinion preload before and after reassembly so that you can replace the pinion seal?

I just had surgery today and will have some downtime this week. I planned on writing a tech article on axle and gear basics over the next few days and using pics I took during a recent axle regear for another CK5er. Figured if I can't play in my garage this week, I may as well do something useful with my time. If you want to wait a couple days I should have all the info you need.
 
Thats a big negative its like the only thing with autos that I have never done. But wouldn't I need something closer to a new bearing kit to get all I need to do that.

Some crush sleeve or some ****?

If Im not changing the bearing do I really need to go through all that just to change that stupid seal? I though you could change the seal But I could be very wrong.
 
As long as you're not changing gears or the carrier there is no need for a complete set up kit. You should be able to buy replacement bearings and a crush washer (if needed) locally.

Pinion bearing preload is important in how everything in there operates together. That's why it needs to be measured before it's taken apart and set right during reassembly.

I'll work on that article today, maybe get a lot of questions answered.
 
Add what you do to replace some of the special tools I just don't have.
I do have my dial indicator but I don't have the other stuff.
 
Also If I'm going through it all shouldn't I change the bearings out as well. I mean if I have to go to all the trouble why not?



Timken/Differential Bearing/Seal Kit-Front
DRK321

Or DRK321A??

So many parts so little time.
 
phrogs said:
Also If I'm going through it all shouldn't I change the bearings out as well. I mean if I have to go to all the trouble why not?



Timken/Differential Bearing/Seal Kit-Front
DRK321
Click to expand...



IIRC you need a press to install new bearings.
 
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