10 bolt front axle refresh. Need help with part number on a couple things.

[phrogs]

IIRC you need a press to install new bearings.

Yep and I have one.

I was looking at those bearings and they do not have any shims or a Crush sleeve. Two different part numbers but they have the same photo.

I hate buying parts sometimes..

 

[496truck]

IIRC you need a press to install new bearings.

On the carrier, yes.

I wouldn't replace bearings unless there is something wrong with them. No chips, no flaking, no pitting in the bearings or races then they should be good to go.

I began the tech article. Gonna take me a while to go through all my pics and come up with procedures but it's started.

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=311872

 

[phrogs]

I'll have to tear into it. I also take it I need a dial Torque wrench I don't have one of those.

 

[Big Ray]

they make solid spacer sets for the pinion on 10 bolts...Used one in my last truck.

linky

 

[phrogs]

Well I didn't really look at the gear and I took it out the ring gear, and it has some serious corrosion on the teeth. The bearing races have corrosion on them as well and the bearings are pretty loose. That kinda ruins my plans for this axle. This is a 28 spline and my trucks front end is a 30 spline so if I need to get a new ring and pinion I might as well just change the one that's on my truck right now. So I'm shifting gears I'm not even sure if I really want to dump more money into this!

Ugh!

 

[phrogs]

The gear.

 

[496truck]

I answered your pm before checking this thread, I would try a scuff pad on those ring gear teeth and see if it cleans up first. chances are, some people here have cleaned up and run worse looking buildup than that.

If it cleans up well, then just buy a bearing kit.

If it turns out to be crap, you still have the axle in the truck.

 

[phrogs]

I don't know if it will clean up to well But again its not being used all the time either.

I also went to yank the u joints out of the axle shafts and well they might be rusted solid I hosed them down with some PB blaster so ill have to see if they pop out or not If they don't then Im done with this carrier anyway.

No point in salvaging it if those cant be used.

It would be cheaper to get a new gear set and use my original Axle.

ill keep it updated.

 

[phrogs]

http://youtu.be/gMoKRPVv8gw


Let's see if that video works

 

[496truck]

That's totally normal, a brand new bearing does the same thing. The cage is only there to hold the rollers in place on the inner race. Once the bearing assembly is sandwiched in the housing with the outer race there is zero movement, they just roll.

Those u-joints can be tough, especially when they get old. Soaking them in PB is the best thing right now. I've learned some u-joint removal techniques that make most people go "WTF ?" but it works every time. Hard to explain in print, I'll try and find a pic or vid....

 

[phrogs]

That's totally normal, a brand new bearing does the same thing. The cage is only there to hold the rollers in place on the inner race. Once the bearing assembly is sandwiched in the housing with the outer race there is zero movement, they just roll.

Those u-joints can be tough, especially when they get old. Soaking them in PB is the best thing right now. I've learned some u-joint removal techniques that make most people go "WTF ?" but it works every time. Hard to explain in print, I'll try and find a pic or vid....

Yeah I couldn't remember on the bearing if it should be tighter or not.


The U joints are toast the inner cup is completely rusted through I knew they were toast when I got this axle but Now that I looked at them im soaking the crap out of them with the PB blaster for a few days.

I even smaked the spindle with pressure on it and they didn't budge. The good thing is the C clips did pop out so there were not rusted in place.

 

[496truck]

I love this mac but, I can't figure out how to use things sometimes. I couldn't figure out how to save this pic as an image so, I just took a pic of it with my phone...

Hold on to the axle shaft and let it hang down vertically (not sideways like the pic) and hit the shaft with a hammer as shown. The sudden movement of the shaft and the weight of the u-joint standing still will cause the cap to come out. You need to hit it like you hate it. This method works every time. I've gotten old, rusty caps to come out without soaking in PB first. This method also prevents the ears from being pressed in like when you hammer on the caps to push one in/other out or use a u-joint press which will squeeze the ears together until they break free.

It is a pain to hold the shaft with one hand while hammering it with the other, but it works.

 

[phrogs]

So I tried your way to get them caps off the u joints and worked like a charm, Even sent one sailing across the shop made me laugh pretty good.


But Its been a few days since I was in the garage so I just got to try it today.

Thanks
jp

 

[Deuling]

I do the same method, but instead of holding it... Open up a vice and lay the horizontal caps on top of the vice "teeth"

 

[phrogs]

I actually like holding it vs the vice but it works the same!

 

[496truck]

I did that on trail once. They were all trying to find sockets and something to brace against. I was like "No no. I got this." They were surprised to say the least.