10-bolt pinion bearing race not going in...advice needed.

[jonrpick]

Ok, so I'm out in the garage trying to get the inner pinion bearing race to go back into the housing. I'm using the old one up against it. I was just using an untapered brass punch (a big one) and got it started, but it's not budging anymore, and it appears to be going in slightly crooked, even when I hit it on the high side.

I need some insight from the more experienced brothers here...

 

[driney]

The race is pretty hard. If you got started a little crooked there may be a burr behind it. Can you get it out and start over?

 

[01maroonz71]

yeah, they can be a pain in the rearend(no pun intended) knock it out then start over...i've had to do them multiple times to get them to go in correct.

 

[jonrpick]

The race is pretty hard. If you got started a little crooked there may be a burr behind it. Can you get it out and start over?

yeah, they can be a pain in the rearend(no pun intended) knock it out then start over...i've had to do them multiple times to get them to go in correct.

I can get it out and try again... It seems this might be easier if I had something that matched the O.D. of the race and had a long arm on it to use a real hammer against. I'm basically just using the weight of the brass punch against the old race.

I tried using an axle bearing puller on the slide hammer, with it entering the housing through the pinion...and then tried to pull against the old race... It was so ridiculous to try and keep everything aligned that it was funny. I'm sure I looked stupid while trying to do it too...

Would hammering on the brass punch, and using the punch on the new race damage it? It seems that the brass, being softer, wouldn't damage the race.

 

[driney]

Maybe others would tell you different, but I have hit hardened parts with a brass hammer and had no problems. I guess I tried not to hit any harder than necessary. If you get the race out and there are no burrs, you might try throwing it in the freezer to temporarily shrink it.

 

[dyeager535]

I'm not familiar with how this thing is going in, but on any bearing or seals I've had to install, lacking a proper driver set, I've used a block of wood large enough to cover as much of the piece as possible.

Spreading the force across the entire piece promotes them getting started straight, which makes them easier to drive in.

 

[jonrpick]

I'm not familiar with how this thing is going in, but on any bearing or seals I've had to install, lacking a proper driver set, I've used a block of wood large enough to cover as much of the piece as possible.

Spreading the force across the entire piece promotes them getting started straight, which makes them easier to drive in.

Indeed... However the bearing driver set was $43 at Napa...

Because of this project, I am eaten up with tools that I may never use again, like my bearing puller set and slide hammer.

 

[Streetgliderx]

i used a large socket with an extension i think it was a 2 1/8th" socket. and a 5lb sledge

 

[jonrpick]

i used a large socket with an extension i think it was a 2 1/8th" socket. and a 5lb sledge

I removed it and started over. I just used the brass punch again, but this time I was hitting it with a small hammer. I got it seated all the way in. I was worried about damaging it, but the more I thought about, the more I knew the brass would give first.

Thanks all.

 

[JBo214]

Dont worry about it brother..... sorry I wasnt here to help. If you look in from the opposite side of the bearing you punched in...... it should be nice and flush. I know you are a smart dude so I'm sure that you have checked that. If you punched it in w/ a softer metal than what the race is made of...you are good to go.

Anyway... I think you are on the right track. Post pics of the gear pattern for discussion. Any probs..... contact the JBo...

 

[jonrpick]

Dont worry about it brother..... sorry I wasnt here to help. If you look in from the opposite side of the bearing you punched in...... it should be nice and flush. I know you are a smart dude so I'm sure that you have checked that. If you punched it in w/ a softer metal than what the race is made of...you are good to go.

Anyway... I think you are on the right track. Post pics of the gear pattern for discussion. Any probs..... contact the JBo...

Thanks man, both races are in all the way. Used a post-it note as a feeler gauge. It won't fit between race or housing on either end...

Oh...so then I started to put the pinion in to get ready for the 1st pattern check.

25 minutes later I was at the ER.

Thread in the Lounge.

 

[lectric80]

Brass punches are excellent for driving bearings and races. That is all that I have ever used, although I have heard of the proper tools, I am just too cheap to buy them.