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10 bolt rear needed SF Bay Area

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lizard49

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SF Bay Area
Hello Gents,

My rear axle grenaded and need some :bow:advice:bow: on where to get a new used axle, or where to get a good rebuild kit. I have not torn into it, but I am thinking the overhaul kit and new ring and pinion w/ 4.11 gears

I called a parts yard and they want $550 for used axle w/ 3.78 gears. 90 day warranty for it. Sounds like too much?

I have read about the 14 bolt swap and do not want to do it at this time. I run 35's on a 4" lift and it is going to be my daily driver so mostly street driving 99.9%.

other specs:
1988 K5
350 TBI
700R4
NP208
225k miles on the OD

Thanks for your help!

Dave
 
Check craigslist. I couldn't give my half ton stuff away. I wouldn't pay more than $100 for a used 10b rear.
 
you culd get a semi float 14 bolt.even swaps and has the same brackets and 6 lug hubs to use your same rims and tires.close to twice as strong as your 10 bolt.find a 3/4 ton suburban to get it from and also i think some vans.i would not pay more than 200 dollars for any junkyard axle.i paid 125 for my 14ff.10 bolts come on all 1/2 ton trucks after 1980 or so.should be easy to find one.on that one you found,unless it is completely rebuilt is not worth it.and they are wrong on gear ratio.it would be 3.73.i have never heard of 3.78 gears unless it s a "special" axle and built specific for something.
 
You should be able to find a 10b rear for free. Sh!t, I wouldn't pay more than $50 for one, and then only if it had good brakes and the gears I needed. I think you could also use a 12b?

Anyways,

Check out the classified section over on Pirate4x4.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=4

Axles, tires and wheels forums as well as the free stuff forum.
 
if i werent on the other side of the country id give you mine and use it as an excuse to put a 14 bolt in my truck :D but its got the 3.08 gears and gov-bomb in it. which is actually a great locker for daily driving, just not mudding.
 
Thanks for the replys guys. The help on this forum is well worth the membership costs! I bought this truck years ago to learn a little bit how to work on cars.

3.73 gearing - sorry.

I did check craigslist and will also check out Pirate - never heard of it till now.

What is a full float and a semi float? I see in the forums 14bolt FF - full float?
 
lizard49 said:
Thanks for the replys guys. The help on this forum is well worth the membership costs! I bought this truck years ago to learn a little bit how to work on cars.

3.73 gearing - sorry.

I did check craigslist and will also check out Pirate - never heard of it till now.

What is a full float and a semi float? I see in the forums 14bolt FF - full float?
Click to expand...

Yep. Full float means the axle shafts do not carry weight, they just transmit power to the wheels.

On a 10 bolt axle, if you break an axle shaft, it will walk out wiht the hub and your wheel will fall off. On a 14bolt FF, you can remove the axle shafts from the outside, and it has nothing to do with the hub/wheel. Besides being way harder to break, if you do break something, it doesn't become a safety issue.
 
full float is more desireable because they are easier to fix on the trail, and when they break, you can remove the pieces, and drive out with the tire as kind of an idler wheel. like the rear wheel on a FWD car.

the wheel and hub are mounted to the axle housing, and the axle mounts to the hub. so you can pull the axle without removing the wheel/tire.

other axles, you have to take off the wheel/tire to get the axle out, as well as the rear diff cover to remove C-clips on most setups. and you have to put a new axle in, or weld up the broken axle, to mount the wheel/tire and drive out.
 
Dreamer - thanks for the bro down offer - too bad you're on the right coast!

so I disconnected my driveshaft and tied it up ( strap, zip ties and wire; i should should post a pick for JethroMechanic.com) and rolled my happy a$$ down to fail smog for the 3rd time. It BARELY failed and Ahmed said maybe a new CAT will clean it up. She's tuned up and runs great; exhaust is only 5 yrs old and 20k miles on it. But that's another issue....freaking California. Man I love it here but the commies are killing the state.

so....I've been reading a 14bff is cheaper than the regear and rebuild on the 10b? I don't plan on rock crawling but.....also have read about 10b rebuild and they are happy with it so long as they don't go baja 1000 with the rig. I'm leaning towards getting the goodies to rebuild/regear and go on merry way. but every time something has needed replacing on the truck I always tried to upgrade .

Rebuild or or go w/ 14b? Hombre's quote "14ff.10 bolts come on all 1/2 ton trucks after 1980 " has me thinking. I do have a friend that is a guru so we can do the swap if needed no prob. Eh, another brew and on the hunt for pricing.

If I do rebuild any kit brands recomended?
 
You should be able to buy a working 14ff around here for 125.00 max. The 3.73 and 4.10 are the most common ratio. If you do decide to go this route make sure you get one from a 3/4 ton truck and it will be a direct swap with the exception of a rear conversion u-joint needed. Obviously you'll need 8 lug wheels for the 14ff as well.
 
IF you still want a 10 bolt rear, I have one in san jose 373 gears pulled from an 88 last month, it will bolt right in your ride. Even has the cables on it. Id let it go cheap.
 
10 Bolt

I have one out of an '89 K5, with cables, 4.88s & and auburn limited
slip differential. Has about 5,000 miles on gears & auburn.
make offer, daytime #916-331-2751 John.
( located in Roseville, Ca. )
 
I can switch the axle from 8 to 6 lug right and save the $ on rims? or does it need steel wheels as weel to fit?

Any places to look in the bay area other than Navarro in San Jose? Or just the classifieds?
 
Id think you could find a 10bolt chevy in just about any parts yard. There are a few parts places in SJ, there used to be a place called JT trucks, theres a pick and pull in newark, etc.
 
Thanks Happy - but 4.88's are too low. I'll keep my ears open for you though!

Oneton - How much and what condition/miles on it?
 
Any places to look in the bay area other than Navarro in San Jose?
Click to expand...

Ahh, no wonder you got such a high quote. That place is a rip off. There's a pick-n-pull just down the street from them where you can find on much cheaper. It costs $2 to go in and look around with your tools.
 
i would definatly go 14bff.

what was it that B52 crews said about the bird.... BUFF.... loose the U and it describes the 14 bolt pretty well. :D

but honestly, the cost of some 8 lug steelies at a pick your part is probably about 10 bucks apeice. depends on what youre running now. ive got steelies all around, so it would look normal. if youve got alloys it would be more expensive. but you could sell all four alloys, and probably cover the cost of the swap for the 14bff, and four steelies, 6 lug up front... 8 lug out back. but carrying a spare would be a complex issue.
 
thanks Brian. I went to navarro's and picked up a pass. door - full assembly- for like 200 bucks. it was even the same color as my truck - white. everything worked in it, so i was going off a previous good experiance.

I am geting a lot of responses from this so it's sounds like I will get something from a fellow member.

? - how do I get rid of the dead axle? LOL - maybe that's why I hear "sell it to you cheap" on the old axles people have swapped out :) one man's trash is another's treasure for sure!
 
$200?!! Yikes. I paid less than that for a super "rare" 71 blazer door with no rust from one of the more expensive yards up in fremont. I'd go take a stroll on a lunchbreak sometime through picknpull. You'll save a lot of cash that way. An 88 door shouldn't bemore than $75
 
Has 140k on it pulled from a 88 burb I converted to 8 lug. 50 bux. here it is, even has the lugs

suburban5-09011.jpg
 
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