GM4wheeling
1/2 ton status
should have checked back sooner, already found them, but thanks, really appritiate the help!
CK5
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10 Bolt vs D44
- Thread starter drofdar
- Start date
I agree with some of the stuff you said, and other points I would really like to see some test numbers on them........like the comparison between the 760 chromo and standard Spicer 806 u-joint. But overall we have about the same point of view.......Dana 60's have their place and so do 10-bolts and Dana 44s. I never said that Dana 60's were the ultimate answer, just pointed out several things to consider.
Yes, I agree that the 30-spline stubs on a D60 is the weak point, but you still have to rag on it pretty hard to break one. And yes, I am talking from personal experience as I have broken 2 of them and twisted a third (I now have 35-spline alloys).
The Lock-right, sure it's not the ultimate locker but mine has survived the above mentioned stub axle failures and breaking one necked down OEM inner shaft so it must not be that bad. A friend of mine ragged on a front Lock-right in his big-block powered, 7,000 lb., 38" tired truck with no breakage problems for awhile, but it did finally strip after a few rides with his 42" tires.
Regarding the price of a Dana 60........laugh if you want but you are obviously not looking at the right place. The first thing to do is to quit shopping for front Dana 60's on any of the off-road boards. If you are selling one on an off-road board then you probably know it's value. Start going to the junkyards or talking with farmers and other people who don't know what they have. It took me about a year but I found a complete running 1-ton truck for $750.......wouldn't want to drive it on the freeway but I jumpstarted it and drove it on the trailer. It had a 350, SM465, NP205, 14-bolt, along with the front D60. Another friend of mine has sold at least 4 Ford high pinion front 60's in the last year or so and I think $500 was the most he ever spent to purchase any of them.
Yes, I agree that the 30-spline stubs on a D60 is the weak point, but you still have to rag on it pretty hard to break one. And yes, I am talking from personal experience as I have broken 2 of them and twisted a third (I now have 35-spline alloys).
The Lock-right, sure it's not the ultimate locker but mine has survived the above mentioned stub axle failures and breaking one necked down OEM inner shaft so it must not be that bad. A friend of mine ragged on a front Lock-right in his big-block powered, 7,000 lb., 38" tired truck with no breakage problems for awhile, but it did finally strip after a few rides with his 42" tires.
Regarding the price of a Dana 60........laugh if you want but you are obviously not looking at the right place. The first thing to do is to quit shopping for front Dana 60's on any of the off-road boards. If you are selling one on an off-road board then you probably know it's value. Start going to the junkyards or talking with farmers and other people who don't know what they have. It took me about a year but I found a complete running 1-ton truck for $750.......wouldn't want to drive it on the freeway but I jumpstarted it and drove it on the trailer. It had a 350, SM465, NP205, 14-bolt, along with the front D60. Another friend of mine has sold at least 4 Ford high pinion front 60's in the last year or so and I think $500 was the most he ever spent to purchase any of them.
thekiffer
Registered Member
6.2Blazer said:
As stated before, exception not the rule. Here in Denver there isn't always a farmer. And many of the farmers look at parts sites to get prices. I agree it can be done not on the boards and not in Denver but in the more rural areas. It is still a comodity. Only so many trucks made and more and more of them are getting pulled from Junk yards and put under our trucks. I have a friend who builds axles off of an ad in the 4x4 magazines and he usually gets them at a pretty good cost( and a good cost isn't $500 it is more like a $1000), he has to to make any money but they are getting harder and harder to find....The pick and pulls here never have em and the regular Junk Yards know what they are worth. So, you have to hope for someone who doesn't know what they got. I found that, and what he had was two 3/4 ton axles he thought were one tons for a 1000
he had checked out websites and marked it under thinking they were one tons. I broke the news to him... I was there cause that is a deal around here or it would have been.....
blazin_blazer
1/2 ton status
well i look at it like this gm spent millions researching both axels, do you think they changed to the 10 bolts just because they made them in house? nope
they changed them because the 10b is a better axel, and like they said in the other posts the dana 44 flat top knuckles will swap over to the 10b if you want to put in crossover steering, and the 10b is more plentiful around here. i run 3/4 ton 10b with 39.5's and haven't had any trouble as of yet, granted i do have the alloy axeles and forged axel ujoints
they changed them because the 10b is a better axel, and like they said in the other posts the dana 44 flat top knuckles will swap over to the 10b if you want to put in crossover steering, and the 10b is more plentiful around here. i run 3/4 ton 10b with 39.5's and haven't had any trouble as of yet, granted i do have the alloy axeles and forged axel ujoints
?????? explain please.....De DeDe I don't get it.
i agree with the deals, they are out there but maybe hard to find. I found my D60, T400, 205, FF14 out of a 85 wrecker, in a junk yard for a steal (I think anyway)
i agree with the deals, they are out there but maybe hard to find. I found my D60, T400, 205, FF14 out of a 85 wrecker, in a junk yard for a steal (I think anyway)
1BEATK5
1/2 ton status
Here is my .02
I would run the 10b just to make people cringe when you wheel it and it doesn't break.
I also got a "good" deal on a d60 $685. but after converting it to srw style and replacing every wearing item in it, it now has cost me $2000. that is no locker, no 35spline outers, no fancy anything.
my brother on the other hand got a free d44 with 4.10s ( from me) spent about $200 on bearings,brakes and seals, and $600 on good shafts and joints.
his truck runs 38s, mine42s, and his truck has 200lbs. less weight, the same ground clearance, and we have tons of cheap spare parts in the garage for it. mine is just a money pit.
the point is 38's and under i would build a d44 or 10b and wheel cheaper and show those d60front wearing mothers the finger.
I would run the 10b just to make people cringe when you wheel it and it doesn't break.
I also got a "good" deal on a d60 $685. but after converting it to srw style and replacing every wearing item in it, it now has cost me $2000. that is no locker, no 35spline outers, no fancy anything.
my brother on the other hand got a free d44 with 4.10s ( from me) spent about $200 on bearings,brakes and seals, and $600 on good shafts and joints.
his truck runs 38s, mine42s, and his truck has 200lbs. less weight, the same ground clearance, and we have tons of cheap spare parts in the garage for it. mine is just a money pit.
the point is 38's and under i would build a d44 or 10b and wheel cheaper and show those d60front wearing mothers the finger.
slytownbogger
Registered Member
ive run both of these axles with 38 inch boggers ,the ten bolt is easier to find parts for but ive broke half the number of 44s compared to 10 bolts. do like i did run the 10 bolt til u run out of parts then swap.
OrangeCrushK10
1/2 ton status
From what I know, they are almost identically the same.
But I'm gonna vote for D44, just because that's what I like to run.
My reasons are more aftermarket support, you can also find D44's with Flat top knuckles, and they came in more sizes (width, weight), and you can find plenty of interesting one-off D44's because of the options they had available to them.
Also, and this is debatable, but I've heard the D44 it a bit stronger.
But I'm gonna vote for D44, just because that's what I like to run.
My reasons are more aftermarket support, you can also find D44's with Flat top knuckles, and they came in more sizes (width, weight), and you can find plenty of interesting one-off D44's because of the options they had available to them.
Also, and this is debatable, but I've heard the D44 it a bit stronger.
Supreme70
1/2 ton status
Well Ive decided to run the the dana 44, im using the ARB locker and running 4.88 gear set. Im looking into getting the better axles for it and I should be good with the 36 iroks im going to run.
The biggest point everyone (that I read) is missing, is the terrain that you're wheeling on. I've seen stock 10blts and d44's running 38's get the wee knocked out of them in mud and regular trails and not flinch. Stick them on a black trail here in the north east aired down to 15psi and they'll snap like a #2 pencil.
I'm running 10blts with 4.88's, lock-rites and 4340 axles with a set of 35" TRXUS radials. I wheel the stuffing out of them on everything from 5ft mud pits to black level rock trails and have yet to break anything. Then again, I'm realistic about the trucks abilities.
I've had guys with the 60's & 14ff's stand and snicker until I make it through what they couldn't.
If I break something on the trail, I know I'll get home, fix it, and be out wheeling the next day :O}
I'm running 10blts with 4.88's, lock-rites and 4340 axles with a set of 35" TRXUS radials. I wheel the stuffing out of them on everything from 5ft mud pits to black level rock trails and have yet to break anything. Then again, I'm realistic about the trucks abilities.
I've had guys with the 60's & 14ff's stand and snicker until I make it through what they couldn't.
If I break something on the trail, I know I'll get home, fix it, and be out wheeling the next day :O}
Thunder
3/4 ton status
The dead have come back to life!
Caution
Zombie Crossing Ahead.
Caution
Zombie Crossing Ahead.
79chevyk10
1/2 ton status
I remember responding to this thread way ol' back in 05'. Something near the 2nd page or something.Blast from the past...................YAWN!
wtf is with all the thread archeology lately?
original balzer
1/2 ton status
Lmao and somebody votes to resurect an old thread
chulisohombre
1/2 ton status
as old as this thing is,its still worth looking at for newbies who are still learning and figuring out what they want to do with their trucks.hell if i didnt see these kind of threads when i started i wouldnt know much about my truck.or learn about it for that matter.
trucknace
1/2 ton status
10 bolt dd
So heres a question will my locked (powertrax or lockright not sure what it is yet) 10 bolt with thick 4.10s on a 3.08 carrier hold up to driving the streets of So.Cal daily and wheel every weekend (sandy trails/ hillclimbs) with 33s
So heres a question will my locked (powertrax or lockright not sure what it is yet) 10 bolt with thick 4.10s on a 3.08 carrier hold up to driving the streets of So.Cal daily and wheel every weekend (sandy trails/ hillclimbs) with 33s
Ought to as long as you don't get stupid with it.
when i got my shortbed it had 273 gears.....no motor trans , front clip or doors......i found all the parts and kept the 2 ten bolts for 2 years with 38s....it worked good everyday except for the fact of 3rd gear alot...lol.....i got then a 14ff and a d44 for cheap...ran the 44 with 38s for a year also, i hammered it much but it lasted. i would of kept it like that but a oneton truck with a d60 popped up for 500......or i would still have the 44.... the 60 needed king pins and now axle joints, the carrier welded, not my favorite but works good and was cheap. do like said b4 run what you got til one comes cheap or you run out of parts....
