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10Blt Carrier ?

8t7jimmy

1/2 ton status
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Mar 2, 2004
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Location
West Lafayette, Indiana
This may be a stupid question, but can a front and rear carrier be swapped. I would like to put my govlock in the front and the open carrier in the rear with a mini spool. I know that 10Blts are weak, but I'm only running 33's and moderate trails.
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I would *think* given the way the gov-lock operates, that it would probably be about the worst possible choice in the world for the front diff.

I'm no hardcore wheeler, so you don't have to listen to me...but with the gov-lock only locking with wheel speed differential, even turning the steering wheel could cause it to lock, not to mention the transition from traction ot no traction which constantly occurs. I'd imagine it would make for a scary run under power, to say the least.

Not to mention you can't get a weaker component than a 10 bolt carrier in your truck. If you seriously think you need something better than the open in the front, then the gov-locks weakness should prevent you from trtying to use it.

My opinion, but the 10 bolt gov-lock has a horrid reputation on this board for good reason.
 
I have personally seen a Gov-Loc installed up front. When following this truck on trails and dirt hills, it allows too much wheelspin before locking. A lockright would be a better choice upfront if you are keeping a 10 bolt. /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
 
Both 30 spline starting 1989, both 28 spline prior. The only trucks to be split 28 spline and 30 spline were some early 1989's as they had to use up any leftovers from previous year /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
 
Thanks! I realize that their are better options up front, but swaping them gets me an open carrier for a mini spool in rear. The only parts that i have to buy would be the mini spool. I would think (from what I understand) that a gov lock in the front wouldn't be worse than an open diff. I was hoping that someone has done this before and could speak from experience.
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[ QUOTE ]
I have personally seen a Gov-Loc installed up front. When following this truck on trails and dirt hills, it allows too much wheelspin before locking. A lockright would be a better choice upfront if you are keeping a 10 bolt. /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif

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Was it worse than an open diff? I would apreciate any info that you could share about how it handeled. I would like to have something better, But the goal is a cheap locked rear first, then i will work on the front.
 
I think it would be an improvement over an open diff, But not by much. I am going to put one in the front of my 89, But it's not an offroader, daily driver and plow truck.
 
Not much of an improvement from what I saw. I kept thinking OMG he's gonna snap a shaft when they caught. What is funny is they are supposed to be fully locked at low speeds and unlock around corners, while there is a governor to open it fully at road speeds ( I think over 15 or 20 mph ). Maybe it would need to be a new unit. I just don't trust them anyway, seeing as how mine blew up on the way home the day I got my house. /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
 
YEAH, it's a waste of time to install the Gov-Loc in the front axle, Paul is referring to mine, i tried it to see how it would perform, for some reason, it was always open and would still slip, i had to give it some gas to get the wheels spinnin for the unit to engage, then it would and jerk the front end, i was also concerned of breaking a front axle shaft due to this action, so i removed it and welded up an open carrier i had, i don't like that either, it performs really nice, until you have to turn, it's a real b!tch. Just save the cash, they are only a few hundred or so and get a Loc-Rite or a Quick-Loc unit for the front, i personally believe that would be the better way to go aside from going all out with something like an ARB locker.
 
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