12-bolt wheel bearings etc. this weekend

[ccarley]

I'm planning on replacing the wheel bearings on my rear 12-bolt this weekend. I know, the '89 model year did not come with a 12-bolt, but I got one dirt cheap and swapped it in place of the worn 10-bolt. Everything in the middle of the axle is new basically, except the R&P. Carrier bearings, pinion bearings, and Detroit/Eaton True Trac.

I'm pretty sure the wheel bearings are shot; there's a bunch of noise, especially over bumps, and the top of the wheels point in a tad. So, I have in my hot little hands, new bearings, seals, and a gallon of gear oil. Also coming, new brake shoes, and of course new cover gasket (2 for safety).

Here's the trick: I know I need a slide hammer for the job. I do not own one, yet. I'm looking at the harbor freight one (of course), and for $20 I can get a "kit" with stuff that may or may not work.
http://www.harborfreight.com/15-piece-slide-hammer-and-puller-set-5469.html
They also have the special bearing puller attachments, sold separately.
http://www.harborfreight.com/rear-axle-bearing-puller-set-66380.html
Is it worth the extra $30 for the bearing puller attachments? Or will the (what looks like) 2-hook puller attachment work OK?

Maybe? Maybe not? Risk it Saturday morning & see if I need the other attachments? What would you do?

Thanks,
Clay

 

[sweetk30]

if you do a lot of bearings or just like the right tool for the job choice #2

and lots of parts store now do loan-a-tool programs.

be warned tho axles might be worn in bearing area and need replaced.

how do you like the true trac ? I got one for my 2wd build.

 

[rebelgregory]

If there's an autozone near you, you can rent (temporarily buy) a 3-jaw slide hammer and return it for a full refund when done. 3 jaw has always been good enough for me.

Also, nothing wrong with it, but I never use cover gaskets. just RTV it up and go. Never have leaks.

 

[rebelgregory]

I don't know about the OP, but I also had a true-trac'd 12 bolt before I swapped to the 1 tons. I liked it a lot. No clutches like a posi, and not as brutal on the street as an auto-locker. If you ever needed to lock both sides at low power, you could drag the brakes a little and it would drive both tires.

 

[ccarley]

Thanks for the quick advice guys!

As for the True Trac, so far I do like it. I'm not rock crawling (it's a Suburban after all), but I have used it in the snow and mud; it's worked great so far. If I really gas it on the street around a corner, it will howl a (35") tire. It's been recommended by a good buddy to get one for the front as well, and I think it will do me good for my intended purpose. That same friend has one in his 351 powered Ranger, and absolutely loves it over the Detroit Locker he had in there before.

Clay

 

[diesel4me]

You dont really have to use a slide hammer to remove the axle bearings if you lack one..
I've used a cats paw crowbar before,used a cold chisel to crack the outer race,or the cutting torch,the hardened race cuts quickly,before the axle tube will get hot enough to damage it--put the torch in the inside facing out to keep slag out of the tubes if possible..
I've taken all the rollers out of the axle bearings and used my arc welder to remove the outer race by welding a small bead in a few spots on the race,then it'll shrink and be able to be removed easily with a hooked peice of metal and a few hammer taps--this works good on pinion bearings too..

 

[ccarley]

Hopefully I've got everything... I didn't end up with the special bearing puller kit, but I did get this kit:
http://www.harborfreight.com/17-piece-heavy-duty-slide-hammer-kit-5223.html

Hopefully with the jaws it's got I'll be able to get those bearings out of the tubes.

Nice tip with the welder! I've seen that done before and it sure does work. I don't happen to have a welder in my garage, yet.

Brake shoes, bearings, seals, cover gasket (2), gear oil... and then I see talk about the "repair" bearing. The all in one deals, which move the rollers to a different point on the axleshaft, and have an integrated seal. Well, we'll see what my shafts look like when I pull them out Saturday and go from there. Although if the rollers are wider they may be worth it; seeing these replacement bearings in person really makes me wonder how much abuse they can take; the rollers must be 1/2" wide?

I just need to move to bigger axles!

Clay

 

[sweetk30]

repair bearings I have seen are JUNK don't waist your time with them .

 

[ccarley]

Good to know!

Thanks!
Clay

 

[sweetk30]

read this info here . he has a link to new axles http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=310651

 

[ccarley]

Almost done...

Started yesterday afternoon; would rather have started earlier but my wife had a hair appointment at 11:30, and I had to focus on our 2 1/2 year old daughter.

Anyway... pulled the passenger side first, and found this:

So I headed to Autozone to get the repair bearings I have to drive this Monday... They didn't have a pair of the Timken repair bearings, so I had to get the Durlast ones. They are odd, with an inner seal?

How are they supposed to get lube if they are sealed on the inside? I pulled that seal off both of them before installing.

The passenger side came apart pretty easy; the 3 jaw puller was too, uh, wide? But, the 2 jaw puller worked fine.

The driver side was a different story. Man it sucked. The axleshaft pretty much looked the same; the rollers were visibly pitted as well. The seal didn't want to come out, nor did the bearing.

The race broke a bit...

In any case, all I have to do now is fill it back up with some gear oil, torque the lugs, and take it for a test drive. I was expecting to either see the brake shoes full of oil, or worn due to the noise I've been hearing, but they looked fine. So, I've got a set for "later". I'll be looking for some strong axleshafts to replace these sometime soon; and then I can get those repair bearings out & replace them with the legit bearings & seals that will also be sitting on a shelf.

Clay

 

[82355]

If you do the brakes later, buy two wheel cylinders and the hardware kit.

Martin

 

[ccarley]

Good call, Martin. I completely forgot about the wheel cylinders, and remember when I swapped the axle that they are indeed different side to side. Well, bleeder screw size at least. Too different for my taste!

I got fluid in and the wheels torqued today, and wow, it sure feels a bunch smoother. Like, really, wow it's smooth!

Clay