12" lift Questions

[chevydan3]

I am thinking of going from 9 inches to 12 on the 1982 K20. My current set up is. 8in superlift oru 1 inch shackle/shackle flip 4 inch block, normal steering setup. I want to fit 39.5's. I know that I will have to cut fenders because my current 35's rub, but I want that to be minimal cutting. I don't want a body lift. I have only found that Whiplash and Superlift make the springs. Superstiffs are what I have now so, does anybody know anything about Whiplash leafs? I know that their ifs lifts suck. Another option I though of was 52" bds 8" springs up front w/the 56" bds 8" in the rear or 4" bds w/block. Can I leave the front spring mounts where they are and just move the shackle mount back? Of coarse, I will have to go to crossover and had driveshaft, I think the rear shaft will be fine. Should I clock the np208 down? This truck is a DD/trail rider/mud truck, not a crawler. I just want to keep up the the Super Dutys' height and be able to wheel, and be comfortable. I don't need a bunch of guys telling me that I should go with 4 in springs or I will roll over, I don't rockcrawl. I just would like opinions of how to pull it off, pics, and how guys that have actually done it feel about it. Thanks.

 

[jekbrown]

At least you know what you want.

anyway, I think of the ones you listed, this would be the best option...

Another option I though of was 52" bds 8" springs up front w/the 56" bds 8" in the rear

Longer springs are always better... especially if you are gonna use tall lift springs. A stock-length front spring giving you 12" of lift is gonna be un-godly stiff. I know you don't do rocks, but having damn near zero suspension flex is not a good thing no matter what the terrain is.

Can I leave the front spring mounts where they are and just move the shackle mount back?

if you don't want to mess with the front spring mounts, use 56" springs up front... with those, all you have to do is relocate the rear shackle hanger and use longer shackles. People have done it here on ck5... a search should find some good threads.

Of coarse, I will have to go to crossover and had driveshaft, I think the rear shaft will be fine.

Actually, if you aren't going to have lots of suspension travel (and with 8" springs, you wont!) you don't need bling bling driveshafts. You may need to run shims (or better yet, rotate your housing by moving the spring perches in the rear, cutting/turning the front) but you won't need a lot of high angle capability because the suspension isn't going to move a great deal. You will need x-over, but any rig lifted that much should have that anyway.

j

 

[chevydan3]

Thanks. I think that I will only need a high angle cv on the front because the one on there now is just about maxed out at full droop. It is a reworked stock piece. Anybody else's opinions, thoughts? Does anyone have pics?

 

[MTMike]

This truck is a DD/trail rider

Then I would highly recommend against any more lift than you already have. I had the Superlift 12" swamprunner under my 81 when I bought it, and let me tell you, for anything but mudbogging, it was about 6" too high and about 600% too stiff. Nearly tipping it repeatedly on a very mild trail (Not rock crawling, not a super-tough trail... a trail mild enough a Subaru could have made it up there) prompted me to want to get sell the superlift 12" lift in lieu of a much lower, much more flexible suspension.

The setup you're asking about would provide much more flexibility than the stock-length springs that come with the superlift kit, but you've still got that height & center of gravity issue on even the slighest off-camber situation.

Also, consider crossover steering a must. The modification that is needed to be done to the stock front-back setup with that much lift makes the steering pretty much useless for anything but straight-line mud driving. 4-point turns to park in a normal parking spot are not out of the ordinary w/out crossover with that much lift.

-Mike

 

[zeroz400]

I would suggest going over to crossover, then get a zero rate to move your axle farther foward. That should make for some more clearance and then with the bigger tires you could buy Bushwacker cutouts. That seems like the easiest way to go.


Later

 

[jekbrown]

Thanks. I think that I will only need a high angle cv on the front because the one on there now is just about maxed out at full droop.

maxed out in what way? does the u-joint come close to binding or do you run out of slip shaft?

j

 

[chevydan3]

The cv joint starts to bind and the slip shaft starts showing splines.