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1350's or 1410'S????
- Thread starter sapper
- Start date
1410's are a little stronger than 1350's but can handle a lot more angle.
1350 stuff is cheaper.
For that exact reason I have 1410 in the front (short, long travel shaft) and 1350 in the rear.
1350 stuff is cheaper.
For that exact reason I have 1410 in the front (short, long travel shaft) and 1350 in the rear.
id go 1410 all around if you got the extra money
sandawgk5
3/4 ton status
Rene runs 1410s all around and with the double and NV4500 his shafts are almost equal so he only needs 1 spare.
I also intend to run 1410s all around maybe even 1480 Dana 60 yoke front shaft at the Tcase.
Dik
I also intend to run 1410s all around maybe even 1480 Dana 60 yoke front shaft at the Tcase.
Dik
good luck finding a 1480 yoke for anything...i tired about a month ago...no one sells them anymore...
im going 1410 all the way around because the stuff has been a little easier to find,its strong,and i want to only need one size u joint for everything (except the axles shafts)
im actually running a 1410 non cv square front driveshaft and a rockwell rear shaft...i bought a 1410 flange from 1 ton mudder that is basically a 32 spline 205 yoke with a flange machined onto it..pic for refrence
1480 is way overkill for anything with less than 5 ton axles.
People have just started using 1480 in their driveline because its a cheap way to get a high angle driveshaft.
1480 u-joints are the axle u-joints on a dana 60 which sees 3-7 (whatever the gear ratio is) times more torque than the driveshaft.
Does anyone actually know anyone that breaks 1350 joints? I broke one 1310 joint a while back but it may have been weakened by wear. I think people are too worried about breaking driveline joints.
People have just started using 1480 in their driveline because its a cheap way to get a high angle driveshaft.
1480 u-joints are the axle u-joints on a dana 60 which sees 3-7 (whatever the gear ratio is) times more torque than the driveshaft.
Does anyone actually know anyone that breaks 1350 joints? I broke one 1310 joint a while back but it may have been weakened by wear. I think people are too worried about breaking driveline joints.
i dont know anyone who has broken a 1350 but since im doing all mine from scratch there is no real reason for me just to go to 1410
I went 1410 everywhere...and the only spot that needs changing is at the rear of the 205. I'm swapping to CV back there as the angles are too much for any regular U-joint. The front shaft is about 6" longer, and the front output is about 6" lower so the angles worked out just fine.
I got my yokes machined for u-bolt style retainers rather than the POS straps they normally come with.
Rene
I got my yokes machined for u-bolt style retainers rather than the POS straps they normally come with.
Rene
sandawgk5
3/4 ton status
good luck finding a 1480 yoke for anything...i tired about a month ago...no one sells them anymore...
im going 1410 all the way around because the stuff has been a little easier to find,its strong,and i want to only need one size u joint for everything (except the axles shafts)
im actually running a 1410 non cv square front driveshaft and a rockwell rear shaft...i bought a 1410 flange from 1 ton mudder that is basically a 32 spline 205 yoke with a flange machined onto it..pic for refrence
I am not going to buy a 1480 yoke I am going to make one of of Dana 60 stubs so I can "get away with" a larger angle on my front shaft. My axles will be 1410 and if I dont need to run a CV in the rear it will be 1410. If I need a CV it will be 1350.
Dik
sandawgk5
3/4 ton status
I broke my front 1310 at the axle. I think the welded front and bound up tires had something to do with it.
Dik
JohnDeere
1/2 ton status
HAD makes a 1410 CV drive shaft. It will run up to 42degrees.
sandawgk5
3/4 ton status
Don't have $800 to pay for something like that nor do I need 42 degrees on a rear shaft.
Dik
I broke a 1310 joint/yoke at the t-case on a very hard shift into second right after I built the 383 (stupid and young(er)).
The joint looked fairly rough (angle from the lift, the joint wasn't too old) so I think that played a big factor.
All I was saying is that driveline failures are pretty rare, even with half ton sized stuff. It doesn't hurt to upgrade everything but I think sometimes people look in the wrong places
wayne
3/4 ton status
I have a HAD 1350 rear CV shaft and still running the stock front CV shaft. I have not had any problems. I am planning to change the front though but only because I am going to rotate the t case up. I am looking into doing the D60 Joint with a square tube shaft and 1350 at the axle.
1410's are only marginally stronger than a 1350, so the only real benefit to the 1410 is it can go to a greater angle. If I already had 1350's and didn't have issues with the angles, I wouldn't bother spending the money to upgrade to 1410's. If starting from scratch then I would consider 1410's if the additional cost over 1350's wasn't too much.
A guy in our club broke a 1310 on his front driveshaft but it was on a 7k, big-block, 42" tired truck that he was hammering on trying to get out of a mudhole.
A guy in our club broke a 1310 on his front driveshaft but it was on a 7k, big-block, 42" tired truck that he was hammering on trying to get out of a mudhole.
I say if you play in the rocks, 1350 all the way, there yokes are slightly smaller, helping rock rash and from what i see, everyone that plays on rocks hard bends tubing before the joints wear out.
RGV72BLAZER
1/2 ton status
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I'm going 1410s all the way around...but have my 60 stubs already so I may do the 1480 d-shaft for the front...low budget 42* d-shaft compared to a expensive as hell but bling HAD.
Thats my approach with my current running gear build... do it once, do it right... 1410's all around, no straps...
silly thing for me is, tranny out is gonna be bomb-proof......
with a pretty stock tbi, for now... 
eh, 5:13's should help that out....
silly thing for me is, tranny out is gonna be bomb-proof......
with a pretty stock tbi, for now... eh, 5:13's should help that out....
lol same here except I've got a bone stock tbi350 and 700r4Thats my approach with my current running gear build... do it once, do it right... 1410's all around, no straps...
silly thing for me is, tranny out is gonna be bomb-proof......
eh, 5:13's should help that out....
