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14 bolt and driveshaft legnth

N

new2k5

1/2 ton status
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Dec 16, 2002
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south eastern PA
ok i finialy (after weeks of saveing and scheduale differences) have a definite date when i am getting my axels. next sat. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif i ordered and received my u bolts zero rates and shackle from ORD and i picked up my #447 u joint today. any way to get to my point the guy at napa asked why i wanted this not so ordinary u joint. so i told him what my plan was and he told me i will to shorten my driveshaft since i am still useing stock springs. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif not that i take everything car parts store people tell me as gospel but he4 got me thinking. please say he doesn't know what he is talking about. for the record i have a 700 208 combo and will be putting a 14 bolt ff in the rear. if i do need a shortened shaft couldn't i just use the zero rate to move the axel back? please help the sooner i get all this done and over with the sooner i will have the extra 25 bucks to join instead of being a net freeloader /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
The way I know it is if you are lifting it at least 3" you will not need to shorten it for your setup.
But I would really doubt that you have a 14bFF and no lift.
/forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
I wanted to know this to, think I am going 4"s so you just helped me out greatly /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif. If I run say 7" of lift with a 14 bolt would I need to lengthen the shaft still?
 
You will probably need to shorten the driveshaft. Why may I ask are you going to run 1 tons axles with only 33s and a 1" lift? You realize that you are going to drag those axles against averything, and if you play in the mud, you will probably get stuck because of them. I drag my axles against rocks when I have a 12 bolt and the 35s on it. I dont have a problem when I am on the 38.5" SXs though.Just my 2 cents.

Dan /forums/images/graemlins/burb.gif
 
yes i am going to run 33's and 1 tons. for a couple reasons. 1 i have built a couple jeeps before and always did lift and tires etc. and never had the money to do it right and replace the axels since i was makeing payments on em. so i ditched the payments sold some jeep stuff and bought a K5 thats i have no payments on 2 my auto hubs are shot my brakes are bad and my knuckle joints are noisy /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gifso instead of dumping money in axels i will take to the junkyard why not get 1 tons that are in good working order with better gears and a locker /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif. i plan to go bigger but i want to wheel it for awhile till i decide how much lift and how big of a tire i need.

so i guess i am going to try moveing the axel 1.5" back with my zero rate and hope. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
 
Just remember that the axles in the junk yard are in there for a reason. Expect to do brakes on them, seals, and you will probably need new hubs as well. I am not against 1 ton axles, but they are expensive to replace parts on. Everything is at least double in price of what a 1/2 ton parts are.

Dan /forums/images/graemlins/burb.gif
 
he and I talked about this, he was saying why bother with the 1/2 ton rears that he will eventually take to the yard, he is getting the 1 tons from a guy for a pretty good price freshly rebuilt.
 
That good, if its a good price, just remember though with that extra weight, expect to get like 5 mpg /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Dan /forums/images/graemlins/burb.gif
 
i know i am going at this ass backwards but why not build it from axle up plus it will kinda be cool to be a sleeper no one will expect as basically stock k 5 to be locked with 456's. i'll just have to get used to the land anchor. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif i would like to eventually end up with 37 or 38's and keep my 33's as inspection tires /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
I think I am going to lift 4" and put the 14 bolt under it but I don't think the 14 bolt will find its home till I get the new tires(37s or 35s yet to be seen). I would put the 14 bolt under mine because my rear leaks and is geared horribly.
 
I just measured my 14 FF to a 8.5 10bolt...
--
THe distance from the centeline of the axle to the centerline of the u-joint is 13.5 inches on both
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They both use the same drive shaft
==
My 1987 1/2t has the same size u'joint as my 14FF, 3.75. but yours may not, and you may need a combo joint /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif /forums/images/graemlins/truck.gif
 
hmm maybe i'll be alright. how much does it cost to get a drive shaft cut down? i hate to cut it since i do want to lift eventually. but if i spend any more money on the thing right now my girlfreind will mount my cohonies over the fire place /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif
 
I had a 84 gmc long bed p/u a few years back and blew up my 10 bolt. So I bought a 14bff and it went right in with no problems. Just needed a combo u-joint and lost park brake.
It also was a 700r4 208 set up.Hope this helps.
P.S. don't forget to shave that 14 bolt before it goes in much easier to do out of the truck.
 
Maybe my NP241 is different, but when i went from 10 bolt to 14 bolt, i didn't shorten the shaft. It only sticks in the slip yoke an additional 1/4". I know the pinion sticks out further on the 14 bolt, but it didn't seem like enough to worry about. Oh yeah, no lift either.
 
oh yeah, i have a 203, no slip yoke, just a compressing shaft. my fault- but the 14ff still stick out about 3" more than a 12b
 
well i lucked out, /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif with my rear lifted around 6 inched the stock drive shaft was way short, after installing the 14 bolt the stock shaft is perfect
 
howcome the 14 bolt ff i have has shorter pinion length than the 8.5" 10 bolts and truck 12 bolts do ? i was wanting to put the 14 in place of the 10 and it would need a considerably longer driveshaft to work, 14 bolt is short stubby pinion design

do i have an oddball ?
 
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