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14 Bolt Disc Brake Issue

thanks everyone for the information, I just learned a ton. I think I'm gonna purchase that wildwood valve.

Next question is where you do you think the best place to put it is. In the stock location? exposed to all the elements, and the oil that my 12v cummins leaks. Or should I move it to say right off the master cylinder and ill just have to bends some extra lines.

I just found this what do you guys think?
https://www.amazon.com/Wilwood-220-...rd_wg=TVvPI&psc=1&refRID=HJEQAG8HSW0NP764FAR3
 
The only problem with that Wilwood valve listed is the brake switch on it is for brake lights not a pressure differential switch. You will loose that feature of the stock combination valve.
 
Don't spend the money on the bracket. Make your own. That bracket is made for use with the Wilwood Master cylinder. If you were to put in a wildwood master cylinder it would be a slick set up, but if you are running a non-wildwood master the bracket doesn't line up with anything very easily. In my CJ, I just made my own bracket off the firewall and that mounts it up by the master cylinder out of the way. If you were to mount by the stock valve, you would likely be fine too. These are pretty robust.... I more put up by the master for ease of access (not laying on the ground to adjust).

Av8ter is definitely correct however about that not being a pressure differential switch. The wildwood solution isolates the braking systems into subsystems so if one system was to go out, the other would still work but you would not be warned. You would feel it..... but it is a valid point.
 
Personally I like having the same prop valve with at least a way to isolate one side so I don't lose all my fluid and have no brakes if one side is leaking. If you at least get the disk disk valve and add the adjuster to the rear circuit it would be a safer solution. It's free to try gutting the stock prop valve just to try it out. You only lose a little brake fluid to bleed it back.
 
I put the new brakes on, I started fooling with the Valve, I cant seem to figure out how to gut it. I took off the line that goes to the rear of the truck, I would prefer to keep all the other lines still attached. Any ideas?
 
Out of curiosity, why couldn't you just replace the existing proportioning/combo valve for one out of a newer 4 wheel disc truck like a 2003 Tahoe/Silverado or something?
 
Mark Leisenfelder said:
I put the new brakes on, I started fooling with the Valve, I cant seem to figure out how to gut it. I took off the line that goes to the rear of the truck, I would prefer to keep all the other lines still attached. Any ideas?
Click to expand...
After you take the line off, there is another fitting that the Line screws into. Pull that fitting out of the valve. Behind that is the spring and pin the holds the pressure valve in place. Pop those out and the valve and put the fitting back in. Put your line back in and bleed the system good again. it's been 10 years but that how I remember it.
 
chulisohombre said:
After you take the line off, there is another fitting that the Line screws into. Pull that fitting out of the valve. Behind that is the spring and pin the holds the pressure valve in place. Pop those out and the valve and put the fitting back in. Put your line back in and bleed the system good again. it's been 10 years but that how I remember it.
Click to expand...
your right on the money, I just pulled the fitting out, and I'm working on trying to get the little pin out as we speak.
 
this is the PV that I pulled out of the rear output.
Screwed the rear line back on and hope for the best
23k7rd5.jpg
 
soooo here is where I'm at, The back brakes bleed out fine, now I cant get any pressure up at the front brakes. If I removed the bleeders and gravity bleed, they pour out clean fluid and will empty the MC pretty quick. I cant seem to build up any pressure when I bleed them. Any ideas.
 
Is the brake light on? The safety valve may have gone all the way to the rear now and needs to be reset.
 
I figured it out. I had to bleed out the PV better, I took it for a ride. Driver side rear caliper is sticking really bad. Gonna take it apart tomorrow and check it out
 
Mark Leisenfelder said:
this is the PV that I pulled out of the rear output.
Screwed the rear line back on and hope for the best
23k7rd5.jpg
Click to expand...

Did you leave this piece out? That's not the proportioning valve. That is the piece that runs the light switch. The switch 'button' sits in that groove. When there is a differential in pressure between front and rear that piston slides one way or the other and pushes the switch 'button'. Without it in the valve you have no separation between the front and rear brakes.
 
AV8TER said:
Did you leave this piece out? That's not the proportioning valve. That is the piece that runs the light switch. The switch 'button' sits in that groove. When there is a differential in pressure between front and rear that piston slides one way or the other and pushes the switch 'button'. Without it in the valve you have no separation between the front and rear brakes.
Click to expand...
Of course that's not the flipping PV. I wondered why when I took that out, all the front fluid leaked out. I guess I'll have to reinstall that peice later today. Can someone point me in the right directions of the actual PV
 
Mine had that spring and another piece on the back side under the fitting that I took out. Looking at the diagram it is hard to see. It's been so long I'm not sure how it came apart at the rear valve.
 
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